Meet the Designers for the Winterson Prize 2016 - Part II

Each year we work with the student jewellery designers at Central Saint Martins in London, giving them an opportunity to experience designing with pearls for their final year work.

We will be awarding the Winterson Prize 2016 to one of the students for ‘The Best Use of Pearls’ at the CSM Jewellery Awards Evening on 23rd June.

The designs are also open for viewing by the public at CSM during June 22-26th.

Here we feature the second in a series of short interviews with designers from the CSM Jewellery 2016 show, including in this article – Coline Assade, Haorui Wang, Jessica Trafford and Joanne YiFang Tan.

Read about the Winner here and the other designers in Part I and Part III of this series.

UNCONVENTIONAL FEMININITY - COLINE ASSADE

Coline Assade_2

Tell us a little bit about yourself

My name is Coline and I was born in France. I am passionate about jewellery, objects and colours in general.

What was the inspiration for this collection?

The inspiration came from a jewellery supply Christmas catalogue. The double page dedicated “to her” was full of cliché objects such as pink pliers and heart pendants. It made me both laugh and cry.

From there I created a collection that aims to make the viewer question his opinion around gender and hopefully help him to be more playful with his identity and jewellery.

Coline Assade

What have you discovered about working with pearls?

I never worked with pearls before this year and was astonished by the diversity of their shape and colours. I fell in love with the baroque pearls.

Which designer or artist do you most admire?

Delfina Delettrez for her bold, colourful and surrealist take on fine jewellery.

What’s next for you after CSM?

I will stay in London, look for a job in the jewellery field and try to start my own studio.

Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?

I would love to see my jewellery worn by Jemima Kirke because I admire the way she thinks. But truly, I will be happy to see anyone wearing my work because I hope to touch as many people as possible.

What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic?

I would say a timeless design and beautiful materials. But everyone has a different opinion.

View more of Coline's work here.

NATURE AND MANMADE - HAORUI WANG

Haorui Wang

Tell us a little bit about yourself.

My name is Harry Wang, I come from northern China.

What was the inspiration for this collection?

I got inspiration from the natural form of twigs.

What have you discovered about working with pearls?

I very much like pearls. Some of them have very regular shapes and very smooth surface. I try to set them into plastic. I think those two material have very similar surface. And they join together in harmony.

Haorui Wang_2

Which designer or artist do you most admire?

I admire a German artist called Geirg Dobler.

What’s next for you after CSM?

I got a place form Royal College of Art, already.

However, I have delay the place until 2017. I want to try to do some of my own designs next year and travel to some places collecting ideas.

Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?

Asian women.

What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic?

I think time is important. A classic jewellery design needs a lot time to design and redesign. A masterpiece need time to making and try to archive high quality.

Also, an idea is another foundation of a classic design. It should let people give people a feeling, it may be beautiful, it could be interesting, any kind of feeling is fine.

THE ART OF IMPERFECTION - JESSICA TRAFFORD

Jessica Trafford

Tell us a little bit about yourself.

I'm originally from the Lancashire countryside but have lived in London for 5 years now. I am 26 and this is my second arts degree, my first was fine art photography. I made this change due to photography jobs becoming increasingly digital, I'm only happy when I am using my hands!

What was the inspiration for this collection?

The inspiration for this collection was the mess and chaos of traditional artists studios, and how this reflects the beauty and serendipity that can occur when working with your hands.

What have you discovered about working with pearls?

Through working with pearls in this collection – it has opened my eyes to the sheer variety of shapes, colours, and sizes within pearls, which I found really inspiring.

Jessica Trafford_2

Which designer or artist do you most admire?

In regard to jewellery, I'd say I most admire designers who have a playful and eclectic approach to both material choices and concepts – such as Delfina Delettrez and Solange Azagury-Parker.

What’s next for you after CSM?

Immediately - continuing to improve my making skills and learning more about the industry – to eventually (hopefully) have my own jewellery business!

Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?

Anybody who takes a shine to it! I think my work is quite accessible and wearable – although a little adventurous! So somebody who likes to make a statement and who also has an appreciation for the handmade.

What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic?

Wearability, durability, quality, beauty.

NOT YOUR AVERAGE BEAUTY - JOANNE YIFANG TAN

Joanne Tan_2

Tell us a little bit about yourself.

Originated from Malaysia, I came to the London when I was 17 to further study in Arts. Prior to coming to London, I was a science student. My science background influences and inspires most of my work. I’m interested in conveying and interpreting scientific images/information in an aesthetic form.

What was the inspiration for this collection?

The collection is inspired by the growing plastic surgery culture in Asia in relation to the Asian beauty perception and standard.

What have you discovered about working with pearls?

Working with pearls, I do realise that they are more delicate compared to precious stones. The pearl requires gentle handling when setting to prevent scratches.

Joanne Tan

Which designer or artist do you most admire?

The designer I like most is Shaun Leane. I like how traditional craftsmanship is infused with the contemporary designs of his works.

What’s next for you after CSM?

I’m currently planning to move to Italy to further study jewellery making techniques such as stone setting. I’m hoping by gaining more knowledge on different making techniques, I will be able to further develop my ideas and designs.

Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?

For my final collection, anyone who is into face jewellery of the avant-garde kind is welcome to wear them.

What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic?

I think classic jewellery is a piece with minimal design yet it conveys a strong background story or idea. Besides, it could be worn comfortably throughout our daily life. I also think that it is important the piece is well crafted to increase the durability of the piece.