Tagged with 'Buying pearls'

It has long been known that the pearl has played a central role in jewellery, with some of the earliest recorded fragments of a pearl necklace being dated to the 4th century BC. What are the most popular and successful designs of classic jewellery that pearls have been used with - and how are they being updated today?

The pearl was believed by numerous cultures to symbolize purity and to offer protection, as well as being indicative of their owner’s social position. Their beauty and rarity meant that the gems held an almost mythological, and certainly significant financial status.

The Timeless Classic

There are many examples through the ages of how our love for the pearl has influenced the wearing, adornment and design of the classic jewellery that we love today.

In China as early as 2300 BC, pearls were considered appropriate gifts for royalty, representing not just the integrity and loyalty of the giver but also the wisdom and virtue of the wearer. Julius Caesar passed a law in the 1st century BC, which determined that pearls should only be worn by the ruling classes.

In India, it is still believed that the pearl confers calm on its wearer, attracting wealth and good luck. The gem was a favourite of Indian royalty, most notably the Mahraja Khande Rao Gaekwad of Baroda, whose seven-strand necklace was legendary even within a culture where extraordinary gems were plentiful – so much so that the famed necklace gained a name of its own: the Baroda Pearls.



Image: A Winterson South Sea pearl and pave diamond clasp necklace

Their extravagant value lead to the pearl playing an important role in trade, which only increased once they were discovered in Central and South America in the 15th century, a discovery which led to the so called Pearl Age.

As a visible symbol of wealth, the demand for pearls escalated, particularly in Western Europe, where royals and aristocrats increasingly emulated their peers in China, India and the Arab states, commissioning elaborate pearl necklaces, earrings, bracelets and brooches.

By the 19th century, demand for pearl jewellery was so high that the supply of natural pearls began to dwindle to the point today where historic pieces of natural pearl jewellery are so rare they can fetch high six or seven figure sums at auction.

The Pearl Necklace

As a result of the way that they reflect light to the face, strands of pearls have become the most popular form of classic jewellery over the ages. The more strands in a necklace, the greater that the necklace reflected the wealth of its owner.



Image 1: Blush Sunrise Necklace
Image 2: A portrait miniature of Emma Ostaszewska née Countess Załuska, ca. 1850s

The lustre of the gems was often preserved by having Victorian maids wear the necklaces during the day to keep the pearls warm and radiant for their mistresses.

With the arrival of the cultured pearl, the status of the gem has shifted over the 20th century, becoming more widely accessible. The multi strand pearl necklace remains an enduring piece of classic jewellery that actresses, society ladies, designers and jewelers such as Winterson prize winner Bella Mung continue to revisit.

Our pearl specialists individually select and grade each strand that makes up a Winterson necklace, often viewing and reviewing pearls throughout the day to be aware of the impact of shifting light on the overtones and lustre of the pearl. Our necklaces are available in multiple lengths, colours, and different types of pearls, including Akoya, Freshwater, South Sea and Tahitian. Read our Buying Guide to choosing a necklace to learn more.

The Pearl Stud

After the pearl necklace, pearl studs form another cornerstone of a woman’s classic jewellery wardrobe. The legendary Coco Chanel was well known for her enduring love of these beautiful gems,which she wore prodigiously (real and fake together).

Although she favoured the monochrome white pearl necklace, once famously declaring “a woman needs ropes and ropes of pearls", her single pearl clip earrings were almost as significant a part of her iconic image.



Image 1: Pocket watch of gold, with enamel and oriental pearls, 1800
Image 2: Green Grey Tahitian Pearl Stud Earrings in Rose Gold

The pearl studs at Winterson are available in a wide choice of colours, sizes from 6-12mm , types of pearls and finished with 18 carat white, yellow and rose gold earring posts and butterflies.

The Pearl Drop Earring

In an era where natural pearls, with all their unique forms and qualities, were the stones that were used in classic jewellery, the popularity of the drop shape is unsurprising. Vermeer’s famous Girl with a Pearl Earring provides the archetypal blueprint for the freshwater drop earring, a classic style that has most recently been adopted by the current Duchess of Cambridge.



Image 1: Yellow Gold Diamond Leverback And Freshwater Pearl Drop Earrings
Image 2: The Girl With The Pearl Earring, Johannes Vermeer, 1665

Natural pearl drops continue to fetch high sums at auction, as the sale of a pair of earrings owned by Empress Eugenie of France, wife of Napoleon Bonaparte, amply demonstrated. Fetching $3.3 million, the drops were then promptly reset for their new owners by American high jeweler Lee Sieglson, reflecting that the value was paid for the pearls rather than their original setting.

The Seed Pearl Ring

Seed pearls gained popularity in Georgian and Victorian jewellery, where they often accented the frame of rings and earrings in the same way that diamond pave does today.



Image 1: Funeral Ring, Landscape and Temples, 18th Century
Image 2: Beau Seed Pearl and Enamel Ring with Yellow Gold

Often seen as part of mourning jewellery, set around painted portraits or landscapes or offset by washes of enamel, this era of jewellery formed the basis of inspiration for Alice Cicolini’s Beau collection for Winterson.

The Pearl Brooch

Seed pearl pave, where lines of these wonderful tiny pearls are set in single or multiple rows, also offered a stylish way for jewellers to incorporate the pearl in brooches. This form of jewellery became highly popular in the 19th century as a decorative jewel, rather than as a functional object which was the original purpose of the brooch.

Although their popularity has waxed and waned over the years, it appears as if the brooch may be increasing in popularity again as fashion brands and jewellers alike seek new surfaces for jewels to come alive.

Perhaps pearls may also find their way onto these new generation designs. The Duchess of Cambridge might have recently signalled the reinvention of this classic jewellery design at a recent state visit, wearing the Queen’s triple pearl and diamond leaf pearl brooch with the stunning Collingwood Pearl and Diamond drop earrings which she often favours.

Each year around five per cent of us choose to show our love by giving our beloved a piece of jewellery for Valentine’s Day. Whilst diamonds have been a firm favourite in recent years, they're not the only choice.

Here are a few simple tips to help ensure your choice of gift this Valentine’s Day is as beautiful and perfect as the recipient.

SENSE HER STYLE

While it’s easy to be tempted by the changing trends of fast fashion, most of us take less risk when it comes to our taste in jewellery. Before you start shopping, try to gain a clear idea of preference when it comes to the different types of precious metals and gemstones. For example, does she prefer rose or white gold to yellow? And perhaps establish whether she tends to go for classic or more contemporary pieces.

UNDER PROMISE, OVER DELIVER

It’s important to consider what your valentine is hoping to see when presented with luxury jewellery. If you’re yet to pop the question, think very carefully about the disappointment you may unintentionally cause by opting for anything that comes in a ring-sized box. Instead think about opting for a piece of jewellery that makes it clear you’re not about to drop down on one knee.

Pendants in pearl, diamond or gemstones, are a thoughtful choice, especially if you can choose something that is lovely paired with her favourite dress.

LET TIMELESS BEAUTY ENDURE

A national rise in the average transaction values of jewellery purchases at this time of year suggests that many do feel it’s a good time to invest in what’s possibly the most romantic of Valentine’s Day gifts, an engagement ring.

While engagement ring fashions in the twentieth century leant heavily towards diamond solitaires, this hasn’t always been the case, with many different gemstones and pearls being traditionally used in the past.

A stunning central pearl accented by two princess cut diamonds is a timeless classic with a contemporary twist, while opting for a Tahitian or a white Akoya pearl offset by a brightly-coloured gemstone promises enduring beauty in a decidedly 21st century style.

Or for something altogether different celebrate your love with a burst of colour by selecting a ring featuring vivid run of breathtaking pink or blue sapphires.

ALL WRAPPED UP

Whether it’s elegant earrings or that all important ring, ensure your gift delights from the second that she lays eyes on it by opting for expertly gift-wrapped jewels.

Each piece of Winterson jewellery comes in our stunning signature zigzag wrapping, which means your purchase is guaranteed to be beautiful inside and out, just like your loved one.

The timeless beauty and versatility of pearls make them an ideal choice of wedding jewellery, with a classic style that can complement any dress.

Not only will you have a beautiful and wearable reminder of your big day, but as pearls photograph so well, you are guaranteed some incredible pictures to cherish too.

There are several factors you may wish to consider when selecting your pearls to ensure they provide the perfect finishing touch.

FIRST THINGS FIRST

Unless you have a heritage piece that you are determined to wear, it is best to select your dress and any headpiece or veil you might wear, before looking at your jewellery options.

As your dress should be the main event, a ‘less is more’ approach such as with a classic Akoya pearl necklace would be wise to follow when it comes to your jewels.

There are some simple rules that are best to keep in mind. If you are wearing an elaborate headpiece, you may need to forgo wearing a necklace. But if your dress has a simply cut style, then you can be a little more daring with your jewellery.

YOUR NECKLINE

Before deciding on the type of pearl to wear, you need to establish which pieces of jewellery will work best with your dress.

A short pendant or string of pearls will complement a sweetheart neckline. And while there is plenty of bare skin to play with, it is best to avoid longer chains which may lessen the impact of this stunning bridal shape. Choose a necklace of between 42 and 45cm in length.

Combine with matching earrings, or if you decide against a necklace entirely, go for more striking statement pearls for your ears, such as the Lief Enchanted Earrings in White Gold and Freshwater Pearls, designed by Alice Cicolini.

Arguably the most versatile of necklines, strapless dresses can carry almost any type of jewellery.

While you can keep things simple with a subtle pearl choker, this neckline also offer the opportunity to go for bolder earrings or a chunkier necklace.

This neckline is perfect for pendants. Choosing a freshwater pearl combined with a diamond will see you exuding bridal chic.

Alternatively, this shape also lends itself to the classic charm of a double strand or looped long pearl necklace.

CHOOSING THE TYPE OF PEARLS

It’s also important to consider the shade of your dress when choosing your gems.

Freshwater pearls are a dream match for ivory and cream wedding dresses, while Akoya pearls will complement a white gown.

Ivory and cream dresses can also be lifted by the golden tones of South Sea pearls.

MATCH YOUR METALS

If your dress is of a bright white hue there’s a chance gold embellishments will clash, so go for pearls set on white gold or platinum.

Off-whites work with both gold and silver tones, while gold jewellery can make the most of yellow undertones in ivory and cream gowns.

SOMETHING BLUE?

Depending on your colour scheme, your jewellery offers a perfect opportunity to elegantly work in your ‘something blue’.

Blue Sapphire Stud Earrings in White Gold with Akoya Pearls offer the perfect lift to a stunning bright white dress, while Sophie Breitmeyer’s Blue Sapphire and Akoya Pearl Pendant could add an ideal modern twist to a vintage inspired dress.

Discover more about buying pearls and choosing jewellery by reading our expert guides, or view the wedding collection here.

The newly launched Lief collection has been designed by our new Creative Director Alice Cicolini, who first began working with Winterson in 2013.

ALICE CICOLINI

Alice is a successful jewellery designer, creative commissioner and producer, with her work currently being stocked at Net-A-Porter, Dover Street Market, Urban Flower Grange Hall and Colette.

Her first collaborative collection with us called ‘Beau’ - a flamboyantly British range of seed pearl jewellery – is available exclusively at Winterson.

In her official Winterson role, Alice will be responsible for the creative conception and product development of the classic, bridal and fine jewellery collections at Winterson. She will also establish and manage our exclusive collaborations with other up and coming British designers.

Alice brings a distinctive style and influence to our jewellery that has already inspired our customers with her Beau collection, rings and earrings. We are delighted to welcome her fully to our team.

THE INSPIRATION FOR LIEF

The new Lief collection is based on the Winterson brand motif, which is inspired by a wild northern flower called Linnaea Borealis.

Alice's designs for Lief are an exquisite fusion of colourful gemstones and diamonds with Winterson’s signature pearls. Clever interchangeable design allows the wearer to create different looks across the collection, from everyday to the more formal.

Three designs beautifully capture the essence of spring and colour and will be an exciting range of enduring classics to treasure.

LIEF, ENCHANTED AND ENTWINED

The new Enchanted Diamond Earrings sparkle with 36 ice clear gems and are finished in white and yellow gold. Stunning on their own, they can also be combined with a selection of our carefully chosen pearls, crafted with an 18 carat gold loop and expertly designed to fit the Lief stud earring earpost.

New elegantly understated studs also join the range with a beautiful selection of gemstones to tempt, from soft Morganite and Green Beryl, to vibrant Pink Tourmaline, Aquamarine and Amethyst. Each stud earring can be paired with white Akoya or Freshwater Drop pearls, naturally grey Tahitian pearls, or simply worn on their own.

New Entwined Pearl Stud Earrings feature wild gold leaves, entwined around a pair of white Akoya pearls and adorned with two round white sparkling diamonds.

Discover the Lief collection here.

Our buying team recently returned from Asia with a stunning selection of the highest quality pearls for our collections of jewellery at Winterson, being carefully chosen for their lustre, colour and beauty.

But there were a few surprises too.

Here are our reflections from the visit and a prediction of pearl trends for the coming year:

SMALL SIZES…

Pearls above 11mm in diameter command a significant premium for their rarity, particularly for the highest quality South Sea and Tahitian pearls.

But this year more than ever before, we noticed that pearl sizes smaller than 7-8mm diameter, for the Akoya pearl and even seed pearls as small as 1-2mm, are very much in demand for necklaces, earrings and other types of jewellery.

Comfortable to wear and elegantly proportioned, these are the classic pearl sizes for a jewellery designer to work with.

THE EVER CHANGING FRESHWATER PEARL…

The shift in production and demand for Freshwater pearls over the past thirty years has been significant, with small cereal shaped pearls being steadily replaced by the introduction of rounder shapes, and more recently by larger nucleated pearls.

This year really is no exception. Round nucleated Freshwater pearls are now widely available in sizes above 12mm. The trend of the last few years towards large oversized baroque shapes in contemporary jewellery seems to be falling out of fashion.

Perhaps more concerning was the apparent level of processing treatment of some of the larger pearl sizes. Although designed to achieve a whiter colour, these pearls might lose their lustre over time. If in doubt, always buy from a retailer that specialises in pearls.

We only select the highest quality Freshwater pearls that we can find and we loved the dazzling metallic colours of the pearl drops above!

THE NEW WHITE IS…GOLDEN?

The boutiques and shops of Hong Kong are filled with many of the world’s luxury and fashion brands.

The Chinese home market of shoppers loves pearls and prices for high quality pearls are increasing with the growth in Asian markets.

Classic pearls that have a natural-looking white colour are the most favoured style, but it is the luxurious golden South Sea pearl, with its rich tones of champagne, gold and burnt orange, that is the most highly sought after pearl this year.

PREDICTION FOR 2014

The world of pearls is so varied that it is difficult, almost impossible, to summarise one single prediction for this organic gem next year.

Perhaps the most exciting trend is the popularity of small sizes - we are going to see more jewellery designers working with classic white pearls in many subtle, intricate and intriguing ways in 2014.

After years of hard work studying, graduation can be a rite of passage for many, marking a transition from studenthood to professional life.

For the ceremony on graduation day, tradition holds that graduands will wear a formal gown with a hood and sometime a cap. Graduands are students that are about to graduate or receive a degree.

This tradition of wearing a gown is thought to date back to medieval times. Usually graduands will choose to wear simple dark clothes beneath their gowns so as not to distract from the academic formalities.

Women are also allowed to wear discreet jewellery and many choose to wear pearls which, amongst gemstones, are a classic and perfect graduation present.

At Winterson we can recommend three popular pieces of pearl jewellery that will complement the style of the traditional graduation gown.

PEARL AND DIAMOND PENDANT SET

This pretty and feminine set is made of a white freshwater pearl pendant in the shape of a drop sitting elegantly below a sparkling diamond. It is matched with a pair of freshwater white pearl stud earrings.

WHITE GOLD DIAMOND LEVERBACK AND AKOYA PEARL EARRINGS

A pair of pearl and diamond earrings are true jewellery box staples that will be treasured for years to come. This model in 18 carat white gold will add a touch of glamour to the academic formalities and is available with either Freshwater pearls or Japanese Akoya pearls.

AKOYA PEARL NECKLACE

For a special treat, a traditional white Japanese Akoya pearl necklace would be a delightful present to mark any graduation day.

We offer a number of different styles of necklace, strung with 6-6.5mm, 7-7.5mm and 8-8.5mm pearls or for added sparkle with a diamond clasp to catch the eye.

Whichever style of pearl jewellery you choose, a young lady will enjoy wearing pearl jewellery on her graduation. For many following years, she will also be reminded of this unique day spent with friends and family.

The very name itself - Peacock Pearls - conjures up an image of an iridescent, beautiful gem with a myriad of shimmering colours. Are these pearls real and what are the qualities that give Peacock Pearls their colourful name?

A peacock pearl describes one of the most valued and sought after colours of a type of saltwater pearl called the Tahitian pearl, which are cultured in French Polynesia in the black-lipped oyster Pinctada margaritifera.

With a dark grey-green body colour, a true peacock pearl will have a pink, purple or golden overtone of colour that appears to float on the surface of the pearl as the light catches it. These natural iridescent colours are achieved without any artificial dye or treatment.

What causes these special colours?

The dark body colour of the Tahitian pearl comes from the pigments and trace elements in the water that the oyster lives in.

The reason for the colour and strength of the overtone of each pearl, however, also depends on other factors. Scientists believe that the peacock's striking plumage is thought to be caused by the different ways that light is reflected at angles by the structure of the bird's feathers. Just as with the peacock, the layers of nacre on the curved surface of a pearl can have the same effect.

Optical interference creates the complexity of each pearl's colour. The shape of the pearl, and the thickness and transparency of its nacre, can contribute in varying degrees to the colour's intensity.

Artificial colour treatments for peacock pearls

Since pearls were cultured early in the 20th century, there have been many attempts to reproduce artificially the peacock colours of a Tahitian pearl.

The exact techniques used are not well-known, but may involve the use of silver nitrate solutions to darken the pearl, other colouring agents such as organic dyes to produce a blue, purple, green or brown hue or gamma ray irradiation to darken the pearl itself.

Many black pearls sold today are Chinese freshwater pearls that have been treated. These treatments would be quite obvious to an experienced pearl expert or retailer as they are not an exact match to the real peacock colouring. Some dye treatments may also show some colour differences or fading over time, so ask your retailer if unsure.

Genuine Tahitian pearls are also prized for their relative rarity in comparison to freshwater pearls, and, like the silvery-white and golden South Sea pearls, are considered to be some of the finest examples of this extraordinary gem.

As with all rare pearls, this is reflected in their relative pricing, which is another way to distinguish this queen of gems from the dyed freshwater variety.

Proud as a peacock

We love the more natural colours and overtones of the peacock pearl and have a beautiful range of jewellery at Winterson that showcases the extraordinary natural rainbow overtones of these amazing peacock pearls.

Read our Journal article on Selecting Fine Pearls if you would like to know more.

At Winterson we offer three pearl jewellery sets for brides that will be perfect for wearing with most bridal outfits on your special day.

One of the most feminine and graceful colours, white became the traditional colour for brides to wear at weddings in Europe and America in the 19th century. A symbol of purity, innocence and grace, white continues today to be the most popular colour for a bride’s wedding day.

Pearl jewellery is a perfect choice to match the elegance of a white wedding dress. Pearls have unique properties. Their white and reflective surface will enhance the crisp brightness of a dress and flatter a bride’s complexion.

These classic and versatile pieces can also be enjoyed again and again as favourite items in any jewellery box and collection.

BRIDAL PEARL AND DIAMOND PENDANT AND EARRINGS SET

This elegant pendant is made with a white freshwater pearl in the shape of a teardrop, set with a sparkling diamond and presented on an 18 carat white gold chain. It is accompanied by pretty white freshwater pearl earring studs, that are also finished with 18 carat white gold.

This beautiful bridal set is a perfect finishing touch to a bride’s attire that will subtly accessorise the dress.

PEARL WEDDING NECKLACE AND EARRINGS SET

The classic look of the white Freshwater pearl necklace might be the irresistible choice for the bride-to-be. This wedding necklace and earring set is made with white freshwater pearls, which have been chosen for their excellent lustre and beauty.

The jewellery is finished with 18 carat white gold and the necklace is also available with a silver magnetic clasp.

CLASSIC AKOYA PEARL NECKLACE, BRACELET AND EARRINGS SET

Akoya pearls are a traditional type of pearl, originally farmed in Japan. They are characterized by their white color with an overtone of pink, making them an ultimate feminine gemstone.

This classic Akoya pearl necklace, bracelet and earring set is finished with 18 carat white gold and is one of our favourite bridal jewellery sets.

Visit our bridal pearl jewellery, wedding necklaces and bridal earrings collections for other exquisite designs and jewellery sets that will match the emotion of the occasion.