Tagged with 'CSM'

The winner of the Winterson prize in 2023 is Rosa Lusvardi for her final year collection 'Girly', an unapologetic exploration of youth culture and femininity.

Winterson: Tell us a little bit about yourself...
Rosa: I grew up in a village in the north east of England. I moved to London to start the jewellery design course at Central St Martins.

Winterson: What was the inspiration for this collection?
Rosa: Female youth culture and the joys of getting ready. All things pink and girly! Barbie, Polly Pocket, children’s jewellery, make up, nail polish, nail art, fashion, pink, Paris Hilton’s rhinestone encrusted spatula, Hello Kitty, bows on Marie Antoinette's dresses, emojis… !!!

Image 1: Pop Princess Pearl, bow ring, Gilding metal, hard gel nail polish, nail gems, freshwater pearl, Rosa Lusvardi
Image 2: Bubblegum, bow ring, Gilding metal, hard gel nail polish, Rosa Lusvardi

Winterson: What do you find inspiring about pearls? Why were they right for this collection?
Rosa: Pearls are commonly associated with femininity, so I felt it was right to include them in my collection. I also really liked the way that the way the pearls looked with my nail polish colours and the shapes of my pieces.

Winterson: What have you discovered about working with pearls?
Rosa: Pearls have their own personality, they brought elegance to my collection. I found it really fun to design a piece of jewellery around the Pearl.

Winterson: We loved the way your work sends a message about the powerful importance of self-exploration and examining the “codes” of femininity for young women today. Do you see your work as feminist?
Rosa: Yes. My collection is about inspiring people to embrace their femininity. I use feminine motifs, colours and decoration with the intent of celebrating femininity.

Image 1: Destiny, ring, Gilding metal, hard gel nail polish, glass stone, Rosa Lusvardi
Image 2: Pearl, ring, Gilding metal, hard gel nail polish, Freshwater pearls, Rosa Lusvardi

Winterson: Which designer or artist do you most admire?
Rosa: Sandy Liang and Simone Rocha, their work has given me a lot of inspiration!

Winterson: Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
Rosa: All my friends.

Winterson: What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic in your view?
Rosa: Something memorable.

Image 1: Moondust, flower ring, Gilding metal, hard gel nail polish, glass stone, Rosa Lusvardi
Image 2: Sweet, bow ring, Gilding metal, hard gel nail polish, nail gems and ‘sweet’ sticker, Rosa Lusvardi

Winterson: Name one jewellery toolbox essential that you can’t live without.
Rosa: My tiny paint brushes.

Winterson: What’s next for you after CSM?
Rosa: Hopefully more jewellery!

Winterson: Have you seen the new Barbie movie? Team Ken or Team Barbie?
Rosa: I'm excited to watch it when it comes into cinemas! I'm sure I’ll be Team Barbie...

Winterson’s Creative Director Alice Cicolini commented “Rosa draws on classical jewellery forms which have become emblematic of feminine adornment such as the Georgian Bow, forms that also have an echo in the bubblegum plastic universe of Barbie and other girl’s toys. She both subverts and celebrates the journey from girlhood to womanhood and what it means to explore female identity today. Realising her jewellery from iconic feminine materials, such as nail varnish and pearls, Rosa invites us to reflect on our own journey of self actualisation and the joy of dressing up.”

The winner of this year’s Winterson Prize is Hwajung Yoo, whose final year collection 'Time to be...' draws inspiration from the intricacy of watch movements and, in the process, reflects on the vitality of ego and its relationship to time and place.

Winterson: What lead you to explore these themes in your work?
Hwajung Yoo: I am interested in the subject of people's identities, egos and potential. And I have often addressed it as the central theme of my projects. As the subject of 'Ego' is quite broad, I have brought a different approach to it every time.

The project 'Time to be...' began with the concept of 'Alternative ego; another me' that I became interested in whilst working in three countries. As there were distinct lives as a student, a working person, and a Korean in England, Germany and France, I felt my egos in the spaces and the time went by differently. This became the project's starting point.

 

Winterson: Were there other sources of inspiration you were looking at?
Hwajung Yoo: Artists Grayson Perry and Nikki S. Lee have been wonderful inspirations for me to approach the visual languages and cultural contexts of alternative egos. In 2019, I listened to Perry's lecture at the university. He showed an illustration of a woman wearing a T-shirt with the word 'ARTIST' on it, picking a different T-shirt with another job in front of a mirror. Simply dressing and undressing can create him a different identity, which impressed me at that time. Extending this view, he has shown his gender-fluid identity in his fashion and accessories, This has inspired me to use jewellery and materials that traditionally represent femininity and masculinity in my projects.



Image 1: Pearl watch ring, sterling silver, fresh water pearl, watch movement, Hwajung Yoo
Image 2: Dual watch, sterling silver, fresh water pearls, calf strap, watch movements, Hwajung Yoo

Another artist, Lee, photographed her different selves belonging to various subcultural groups in the United States in her work 'Projects'. Through her drastic transformation, I felt the homogeneity and alienation of cultural identity with them. This led me to use only one material, the pearl, to express various selves in different colours and forms.

Winterson: The forms you are exploring are an elegant play on traditional jewellery shapes. Is there a reason for that?
Hwajung Yoo: There are a vast amount of different people and styles in this world. However, traditional jewellery has a base that audiences can think of in common because it has an accumulation of images and perspectives for the wearer. I felt that if I added the watch's movement to this, I could more effectively convey vitality to these contexts.

Winterson: The Ticking Pearls Necklace is an extremely complex piece, and yet is such a beautiful, simple idea. Can you tell us how you arrived at the design?
Hwajung Yoo: The second hand has the most noticeable movement amongst the hands of a watch. If anyone looks at a clock and feels impatient, then perhaps this is because of the second hand. It is constantly moving to a different position, sometimes forcing us into action, and by this movement it conveys the power and vitality of the watch.

As actual action also defines me, the second hand can also represent the vitality of people's ego. With some experimentation, I've been able to place two pearls, traditionally representative of femininity, on a second hand of a watch. The pearls rotate every second and create a living elegance. I was able to develop several designs based on this concept.

 

I also made the gold background metal simple, so as to hide the watches' movements. I wanted people to focus on the pearls until they made a single line and the perfect pearl necklace every minute. I found this to be not so simple to implement in practice due to uncertainty and complications. Nevertheless, it was a valuable challenge to learn a lot.

Winterson: What inspired you to use pearls in this work?
Hwajung Yoo: The pearl is one of the traditional materials that represents femininity, so I wanted to use its historical value to communicate with the audience. In addition, my projects often use pearls as a medium to describe people themselves or their egos. Unlike diamonds and gemstones, the pearl is opaque, so you can't see inside. Nevertheless, it has a beautiful colour slightly different from the subtle background colour. I thought people's invisible and latent souls were similar to these pearl features.

Winterson: What's next for you?
Hwajung Yoo: In the short term, I will further develop this collection to show my style and make it wearable daily, whilst breaking away from traditional jewellery shapes. In the long term, I want to keep creating empowering jewellery to encourage people to look at their egos and consequently have more confidence in their lives.

The winner of this year’s Central Saint Martin’s Winterson Prize is Roni Levy, a designer whose isolation in her apartment sparked an extraordinary journey of reimagining humble materials.

Inspired by the onion’s natural architecture, the collection 'Revealing' tells a story about layers of hidden meaning and story. Painstakingly recreating exaggerated forms of classical styles, Roni has created a collection of exquisite poetry, and it was her oversized pearl necklace, created in white onion skin, that captured our attention from this year’s crop of fantastic design talent.

“My references stem from classical jewellery styles, commercially defined patterns and materials in an exaggerated fashion,” says winner Roni Levy. Visiting the abundant greengrocers along a stretch of North London streets, Roni daily collected the waste onion skins from the base of the display baskets.



“The discarded onion skins dissipate into a translucent material that is both biodegradable, durable and lightweight,” says Roni. “Seen at first as a benign and forgotten resource, I hoped within my practice and throughout this process of discovery to question pre-existing concepts of luxury.”

Using the veneer of the skins, whilst reconstituting their own natural colour and qualities, the process is rooted in transformation. A food industry waste product, crafted into alluring jewellery, Roni is a deserving winner of this year’s Winterson prize.

The Winterson prize celebrates the value of design, encouraging the superlative talents of Central Saint Martin’s students to reimagine what might be possible with this most classic of luxury gems.



Image 1: Pearl XL dangle earring, white onion skins, silk thread and recycled white metal, Roni Levy
Image 2: Pearl necklace, white onion skins and recycled white metal, Roni Levy

Andrew Fraser, Director at Winterson, commented, “We are delighted to be working again with Central Saint Martin’s BA Jewellery and to be in the wonderful position of having so much great work to consider for this year for the Winterson prize. We loved Roni’s process, the natural material and the alluded to relationship (maybe unintended) between the layers of the onion and the layers of nacre on a pearl. The colours and texture of her pieces are really quite beautiful.”

Winterson’s Creative Director Alice Cicolini concurs, “Roni is a great winner for 2021, her resourcefulness and innovative thinking combining to create a truly inspiring collection. It's such a difficult design task to reimagine the pearl necklace in a way that is truly unique and Roni has manage to achieve it at such an early stage in her career. We're so looking forward to seeing how her work evolves.”

Giles Last, BA Jewellery Design Course Leader commented "The Winterson award is a wonderful recognition of the innovation, imagination, design and craftsmanship of our students. Roni's work is delightfully conceived, beautifully made".

The annual Central St Martins Winterson Prize celebrates a body of work that takes an innovative approach to the pearl. The 2020 graduate collections featuring pearls were rich with exploration around both the material and the context of this classic gemstone.

This year’s winner, Zak Sheinman, created a series of virtual pieces, encapsulating the unique quality of the 2020 graduate experience. All of the students created collections that had to be launched digitally, whether through video and photography of realized pieces or through 3D rendering.

Zak brought his experience of 3D animation, which he had studied both at school and through You Tube tutorials, to bear on his concept of restoring value to broken jewels.

His 4 minute animation of jewels morphing from one form to another, intersecting with other jewels and with pearls raining down and through them, is captivating and a sensitive reassessment of human error and destruction.

Commenting on the award, Winterson's Creative Director Alice Cicolini said, “Zak's collection encapsulates both extremes of the unique circumstances of the present. On the one hand the collection is entirely virtual and not physically realized as jewellery. On the other, it remains a superlative demonstration of craftsmanship and an exploration of the tactile, poetic and material qualities of jewellery. It really feels like a jewellery collection for our time and perfectly answers the challenge of the Winterson Prize - to innovate with and celebrate this unique gemstone.”

We caught up with Zak over Zoom from his home in Wiltshire.

Winterson: What lead you to explore these themes in your work?
Zak Sheinman: I was inspired by an earring of my own that I was about to throw away, and wondered how I could bring new life and value to something that most people would dispose of. I became fascinated by whether you could transform a jewel from one state to another. I was a street dancer as a teenager, so I’m interested in motion and movement.


Images: Levels of Damage, by Zak Sheinman

This lead me to look at motion design in jewellery, both from the perspective of using animation to create new forms, but also conceptually to move something damaged from that broken state to something of value. How things become damaged is also a narrative part of the life of a piece of jewellery, and I felt like there was something about the random unexpectedness of animation as a medium that connects with that poetry.

Winterson: Were there other sources of inspiration for you?
Zak Sheinman: I have always loved Tom & Jerry cartoons and the way everything is so high intensity. The damage and collisions between the two are comedic, but also extreme and I wanted to bring some of that energy to my work.


Images: Proposals for Necklace, by Zak Sheinman

Winterson: The forms you are manipulating are quite traditional. Is there a reason for that?
Zak Sheinman: I use traditional forms so that the audience has an instant recognition of what the jewels would have looked like before they were manipulated and broken. The fact that the material then moves and behaves in a way that it shouldn’t is easier to read and understand than if the objects themselves were also conceptual. This is different to what most people understand jewellery to be.

Winterson: What inspired you about using pearls in this work?
Zak Sheinman: I was looking at this idea of challenging people’s perceptions of materials and how they behave. As an instantly recognisable gem, the pearl was also a perfect vehicle for that. Pearls are a delicate gemstone, and yet in this piece they collide with and influence the shape of the metal, a material that is naturally so much stronger.

Winterson: Congratulations on winning the Winterson prize this year! What is next for you?
Zak Sheinman: I’m really excited about the potential of using animation as a driving force in my design. There’s a detail and a story in each frame that feels rich and inspiring. This is also a great way to create bespoke, unique pieces for clients using each frame as a potential starting point for creating a new jewel.

Juntao Asa Ouyang was announced as the winner of the 2019 Winterson Prize for the Best Use of Pearls at Central Saint Martins, London last night, where degree collections from jewellery's future stars went on display.

The influential arts institute’s annual graduate show saw students presenting original pearl pieces, created with advice and support from Winterson Director Andrew Fraser and Creative Director Alice Cicolini.

Asa was named this year’s winner of the Winterson Pearl prize for her collection 'Glitch', which explored the fusion between traditional Chinese lacquer work and a 21st century dependence on technology. The collection used a combination of abalone mother of pearl, known for its vibrant tones of blue, green and purple, and freshwater pearls nestled in ears as futuristic wireless headphones with a playful design aesthetic.



“I am extremely honoured to receive the Winterson Prize. Pearls are astonishing to work with,” says Asa. “The journey of seeking the right pearls for my collection and then arranging and inlaying the mother of pearl is fascinating and exciting. The lustre and colour of pearls are ever changing.”

”Just like the technological glitch, which I explored in my collection, the pattern of mother of pearls is never the same. Lacquer and mother of pearl will be the foundation of my work in future, further exploring traditional craft techniques in contemporary jewellery,”



Giles Last, BA Jewellery Design Course Leader commented ”Asa has created a unique, experimental and fascinating collection, exploring methods of communicating a critique of over dependence on technology through jewellery.”

”The pieces, using the traditional materials and techniques of mother of pearl and lacquer, question what we do and accept as the norm in the 21st century whilst celebrating traditional making techniques and materials. A delightful and intriguing body of work.”



Commenting on the award, Winterson's Creative Director Alice Cicolini said ”We were delighted to see Asa’s work with the ancient traditional technique of lacquer inlay, putting it to use in creating a futurist and thoughtful collection.”

”Asa’s work uses the stunning iridescence of abalone mother of pearl to reference the technological glitch, giving the material new life and meaning in a group of work that questions our relationship to screening and surveillance, and its distancing from the natural and tactile world. Asa is a worthy winner of the prize for innovation with pearls. Congratulations Asa!”

Read more about Juntao Asa Ouyang and the other CSM designers' work here.

Each year we work with the student jewellery designers at Central Saint Martins in London, giving them an opportunity to experience designing with pearls for their final year collections.

We will be awarding the Winterson Prize 2019 to one of the students for ‘The Best Use of Pearls’ at the CSM Jewellery Awards Evening on 20th June. The BA Jewellery graduate collections are exhibited at CSM and open to the public from June 19th - 22nd.

Here we feature the first part in a series of short interviews with designers from the CSM Jewellery 2019 show, including in this article - Ayse Daga, Diana Jung, Fermin Cheung, Hao-Yang Lai, Juntao Asa Ouyang and Wen-Ju Tseng.

Read about Juntao Asa Ouyang, the winner of this year's prize.

 



Ayse Daga

Tell us a little bit about yourself.
I have been passionate about creating since I was very young. Starting off with drawing and painting, I realised that I am interested in creating three dimensional forms that can either be personal or that communicates ideas in a broader sense. My main inspiration is history and admiration of different cultures around the world. Based in Istanbul, Turkey, I believe my interest for different cultures and history come from the rich historical past, traditions and crafts of my home country.

What was the inspiration for your Faces from Curiosities collection?
From broad to narrower sense, it was, history, culture, memories and human conscious. Cabinet of curiosities and Sigmund Freud’s collection of objects were two main inspirations for me to build up a starting point for my collection.

What do you find inspiring about pearls?
Definitely their roots and history. They are considered as the worlds’ oldest gems and were used for different purposes in different cultures. I am also very interested in their nature. Unlike gemstones that are mined from the earth, a living organism produces a pearl.

What have you discovered about working with pearls?
They are easier to carve compared to other stones. I also realized the interesting nature of the Baroque pearls. Their natural and irregular shapes are very inspirational.

Which designer or artist do you most admire?
Shinji Nakaba and Sevan Bıçakçı (he doesn’t use pearls a lot).

Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
To be honest anyone could wear my jewellery who appreciates the idea of history and culture. I always admire ancient tribal jewellery and consider myself as a maker and designer who reinterpret the idea of authenticity.

What’s next for you after CSM?
I’m planning to develop myself in terms of carving and engraving and hopefully expand my work to create my own business.

View more of Ayse's work here.

 



Diana Jung

Tell us a little bit about yourself.
My jewellery designs result in numerous attempts of embodying my delicate sensations into objects. I like designing sculptural pieces that are beautiful when they are both worn and not worn, which holds the features of both art jewellery and fine jewellery.

What was the inspiration for your Sense of Belonging collection?
Exploring the scenes of laundry, the subtle image of soft pillows hanging on the laundry lines left a strong impression on me. Pillows itself are such a symbolic object of home and a personal possession that remains nearest to the skin. Having something that exists in one’s private space and moments set out to the public, came upon as an unusual but also beautiful sight for me. Therefore, I decided to create a collection of puffy pillows which contains the nostalgia of one’s comfort place to be worn on the body for people to see.

What do you find inspiring about pearls?
I love the white soft texture of pearls. I find pearls fascinating in that they have such a calming, comforting look to them. I also think that pearls are special because they become heirlooms that can be cherished for a long time.

What have you discovered about working with pearls?
I found that pearls could be carved and transformed into various shapes. However, I eventually came to realize that pearls are the most beautiful when it is in its pure state.

Which designer or artist do you most admire?
Sculptor and installation artist Do Ho Suh, Rachael Whiteread, and fashion designer Pheobe Philo.

Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
I imagine my jewellery being worn by anyone who can relate to my pieces and understands the sensitivity of them.

What’s next for you after CSM?
I really enjoy designing and making jewellery and would love to start working in other companies. Eventually, I would like to have my own brand.

View more of Diana's work here.

 



Fermin Cheung

Tell us a little bit about yourself.
Someone who likes drawing, painting and crafting but doesn’t understand contemporary arts.

What was the inspiration for your Vitana collection?
Shinji Nakaba who is a Japanese artist specialise in pearl carving; anatomy studies that I’ve been revising in my spare time and my essay which did some research on display methods in galleries.

What do you find inspiring about pearls?
The softness of the material is inspiring. Not just in its strength but also the visual that looks like layers of airbrush stacked on top of each other, creating a vibrant colour. The resin-like interior is also intriguing.

What have you discovered about working with pearls?
The properties of having layers in pearls which cause problems during carving; possibility of sculpting as the material is capable to provide contrast between hard edges and soft edges.

Which designer or artist do you most admire?
Shinji Nakaba; Neil Linnsen, Jiro Jur, Wlop and Shal_E.

Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
Audience that not only appreciate the visuals of a piece, but also appreciate the intentions or messages behind.

What’s next for you after CSM?
Utilising the degree and work for income, whether it is contemporary or commercial jewellery or any other aspects, supporting the study in illustration and concept art, potentially animation if time allows.

 



Hao-Yang Lai

Tell us a little bit about yourself.
I’ve always been interested in designing and making since I was young. As I begin my further studies at Central Saint Martins, I was very lucky to be in a position to truly explore myself. To me, jewellery is about challenging conventions and breaking boundaries. In the future, I intend to continue pushing my designs further and bring awareness to the social issues that I care deeply.

What was the inspiration for your Anthropocene collection?
The starting point of this collection was inspired by science fiction and the cyberpunk movement. As I developed my concept, I begin to realise how science fiction reflects our society and how it can inform my work. With science fiction movies like Blade Runner 2049 (2017), I was heavily inspired by imageries of the postmodern, apocalyptic world. My collection found itself inheriting many characteristics such as the cybernetic forms and clean design aesthetics from the film.

What do you find inspiring about pearls?
I think what’s most interesting about pearl is that they are natural forms. With my collection, I investigated with the relationship between man-made verses nature. The contrast between pearls and the artificial stone gives a new dimension to my collection.

What have you discovered about working with pearls?
I’ve discovered pearls have interesting qualities, such as the different reflections and colours, it's soft on the outside and hard in its core.

Which designer or artist do you most admire?
Anish Kapoor, Stanley Kubrick, Richard Serra

Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
Artists, collectors, designers.

What’s next for you after CSM?
I’m probably moving to Africa or South America to do volunteer work.

View more of Hao-Yang's work here.

 



Juntao Asa Ouyang

Tell us a little bit about yourself.
I am a passionate designer who works with traditional craft skill and wants to interpret craft skills, craftsmanship in contemporary jewellery.

What was the inspiration for your Glitch collection?
My inspiration comes from the circumstances of people over-reliance on technology products. What would happen if all the technology that people depend on just shuts down? I aim to demonstrate the fear of how daily used technology may ‘Incorporate’ people if people rely too much on technology.

What do you find inspiring about pearls?
The uniqueness and colors of pearls is pretty inspiring.

What have you discovered about working with pearls?
I used mother of pearl and pearls in my collection. Colors of abalone shell can represent glitch screens in an abstract way. Natural baroque pearls come with different sizes and shapes. Seeking the right pearls for my collection is an interesting journey.

Which designer or artist do you most admire?
Theo Jansen and Gijs Bakker.

Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
People who like to warn themselves from over-reliance on technology products.

What’s next for you after CSM?
I would like to find a job in which I can learn while working.

View more of Juntao's work here.

 



Wen-Ju Tseng

Tell us a little bit about yourself.
I am an enthusiastic and bubbly person who tends to overcomplicate things but always finds a way to simplify them again.

What was the inspiration for your How Valuable Are You collection?
Social expectations have forced us to constantly evaluate and assess individuals. The collecting and processing of basic personal information provides a system for measuring one’s value that is quietly going out of control. My final collection subverts the uses of everyday objects to challenge how societal expectations are creating a worrying trend to commodify everything we do into unrealistic values.

What do you find inspiring about pearls?
Pearls have a unique lustre that makes them stand out in the crowd of jewels.

What have you discovered about working with pearls?
They come in all different sizes, colours and shapes and I really do mean it. I would like to thank all the living shell mollusks that created the mini pearls I used in my collection.

Which designer or artist do you most admire?
I don’t have one favourite designer but I do have quite a few designers and artists who inspire me such as Ken Price, Ai Wei Wei, Shaun Leane, Gijs Bakker and Margiela.

Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
You.

What’s next for you after CSM?
Expand my collection by developing showpieces into everyday wearable pieces and look into other aspects of social expectations!

View more of Wen-Ju's work here.

Aidan Madden was announced as the winner of the 2018 Winterson Prize for the Best Use of Pearls at Central Saint Martins, London last night, where degree collections from jewellery's future stars went on display.

The influential arts institute’s annual graduate show saw students presenting original pearl pieces, created with advice and support from Winterson Director Andrew Fraser and Creative Director Alice Cicolini.

Aidan Madden was named this year’s winner of the Winterson Pearl prize for his collection of single earrings, each finely crafted from freshwater pearls. Aidan has painstakingly fused together, carved and finely lathe-turned the pearls into a series of gently humorous jewels.



Image 1: Arm, by Aidan Madden
Image 2: Face, by Aidan Madden

Aidan's studs reference pop cultural themes from Disney to Alien, using a gemstone that is more commonly associated with classicism and aristocracy. His craftsmanship and attention to detail gives the results a subtlety and delicacy that ensures his work stands out from similar concepts.

Aidan described his collection to us: “I did not start this project with any preconceptions of the pearl. As soon as I started to cut and join them, their playful pearl faces begin to appear and it seemed that the approach had infinite potential to create a diverse and accessible series of earrings.”



Image 1: Bug Eye, by Aidan Madden
Image 2: Cube, by Aidan Madden
Image 3: Pink and Yellow, by Aidan Madden

Squared studs and alien heads reveal some of the production process behind the creation of freshwater pearls, with visible nacre standing in for ethereal eyes, and the edges of squares retaining the peacock dyes that have been used to colour the pearl.



Image: Pearl Culture, by Aidan Madden

Exquisite carved pearl crowns sit on top of ghostly heads, caterpillars of pearls wrap around to create unique hoops and cartoon characters that are rendered in a fine balance of coloured pearls.

Caroline Broadhead, BA Jewellery Design Course Leader commented "Aidan has investigated different ways of splicing and carving pearls to allow a view through the outer layer of nacre to the pearl on the inside. The collection is small scale and intimate and on close inspection, there is much wit and pleasure in the way he has combined colours and created associations. It is a delightful body of work celebrating the cultured pearl."



Images: Hoop, by Aidan Madden

Commenting on the award, Winterson's Creative Director Alice Cicolini said "We are delighted to celebrate Aidan's intensive investigation of the language of pearl jewellery. Our prize is for innovation with pearls and it was wonderful to see how many students really embraced that idea this year. It was Aidan's commitment to the gemstone as the starting point for his creative exploration that really stood out for us. We are excited to see where this journey takes him - and our perceptions of what a pearl jewel can be."

Each year the prize celebrates an appreciation and understanding of the qualities of the pearl. With such an original and diverse group of work this year, Aidan was an excellent winner. Congratulations Aidan!

Read more about Aidan Madden and the other CSM designers' work here.

Each year we work with the student jewellery designers at Central Saint Martins in London, giving them an opportunity to experience designing with pearls for their final year collections.

We will be awarding the Winterson Prize 2018 to one of the students for ‘The Best Use of Pearls’ at the CSM Jewellery Awards Evening on 21st June. The BA Jewellery graduate collections are exhibited at CSM and open to the public from June 20th - 24th.

Here we feature the first part in a series of short interviews with designers from the CSM Jewellery 2018 show, including in this article - Geraldine Wu, Hannah Cochrane, Isla Gilham, Yayun Fang and Yichen Dong.

Read about the other designers in Part I and Aidan Madden, the winner of this year's prize.

 



Geraldine Wu

Tell us a little bit about yourself.
I am from Hong Kong and have lived in London for 4 years now. Being immersed in such busy and diverse places my whole life, I can’t be away from the city for too long. I love living in a place where I can experience the past and the present all at once.

What was the inspiration for the 'Ocean Archives' collection?
I was inspired by illuminated manuscripts and their purpose of being visually decorative to ornament text, painting a fuller picture of the story. I wanted to create jewellery that would emulate a similar effect, with the narrative that the collection is a rediscovered treasure hoard. Hence there is an archaic, medieval influence within the designs.

What do you find inspiring about pearls?
I find pearls very poetic. They are quieter and more understated than faceted stones, they allow their soft lustre to speak for themselves. In a sense, they are not competitive for attention, but know their worth. Also given that they originate from bodies of water, they are very fitting within my collection.

What have you discovered about working with pearls?
I discovered that laser engraving them results in an iridescent powdery finish. My favourites were the dark baroque pearls, as the silvery/golden finish stands out most against the dark surface. I love that it looks like the text is stuck within the pearls, suspended in time.

Which designer or artist do you most admire?
Renaissance painters such as Raphael and Botticelli, I’m always in awe of the juxtaposition of dynamism and restraint in Renaissance paintings.

Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
Anyone expressive and likes to curate their own story or character through their dressing.

What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic?
A design that withstands the test of time, something that people always return to.

What’s next for you after CSM?
To learn within the industry and develop my skills as a jewellery designer.

 



Hannah Cochrane

Tell us a little bit about yourself?
I have always been fascinated by jewellery, from the child who eagerly inspected the fine jewellery adverts plastered around Geneva airport, to the adult who spends far too much time staring at other people’s jewellery on the tube.

What was the inspiration for the 'A Sharper Image' collection?
Inspired by concepts put forward by the field of neuroaesthetics, I researched visual elements and design techniques that would re-occur again and again within jewellery from different countries and cultural backgrounds. An example of this was threading teeth and bone structures together to form cohesive strands. Through analysing different threads of aesthetic preference, I condensed these  into a visual style that aligned with my own.

What do you find inspiring about pearls?
To me, the pearl echoes of the first instances of jewellery making: the gathering of beautiful natural objects and using them as adornment.

What have you discovered about working with pearls?
I wanted the otherworldly colour shifts found in some pearls I acquired to be displayed in the best way possible. I found the best way to do this was to find said pearls and then design around them, specifically tailoring the original metal design around it.

Which designer or artist do you most admire?
Too many to count, but currently transfixed by Fernando Jorge's alluring designs.

Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
Quite honestly? Myself.

What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic?
A piece that people remember, not necessarily because it might be unique or groundbreaking, but because it lingers on the mind, long after first seeing it.

What’s next for you after CSM?
I plan to look for experience and work within the field of jewellery.

View more of Hannah's work here.

 



Isla Gilham

Tell us a little bit about yourself.
Five years ago, I came across a jewellery workshop on the isle of Iona. The pieces reflected and told stories of the island; Celtic patterns, Serpentine pebbles, coastlines and simplistic beauty; It was at this moment, that I knew I wanted to create jewellery too.

What was the inspiration for the 'Temptation' collection?
The cherished family story of my Great-Grandad’s Jelly Tot tiara.

What do you find inspiring about pearls?
That they embody the idea of beauty in an unexpected place; inside a mollusc’s shell. A concept I have taken for my chewing gum, usually seen to be disgusting, adorning the streets.

What have you discovered about working with pearls?
The beauty of laser engraving their surface! It reveals more beautiful tones and has an almost holographic quality.

Which designer or artist do you most admire?
Many, however, this year, I’ve really admired and taken inspiration from Dutch Golden Age paintings which ‘shout’ indulgence and opulence. The paint captures the deliciousness of food in still lives as I try to with precious materials.

Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
Anyone who loves the concept of beautiful, elegant materials but with a playful twist.

What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic?
I think a piece that captures the imagination whilst reflecting and ‘centre staging’ the materials used.

What’s next for you after CSM?
To keep designing, making and being excited by jewellery!

 



Yayun Fang

Tell us a little bit about yourself.
My name is Yayun. As a jewellery designer, I love working with different materials and exploring the traditional craftsmanship practices in my jewellery. One of my biggest pleasures is seeing people wear a piece of jewellery I made and feeling good wearing it.

What was the inspiration for the 'Hip-Hop Lace' collection?
A combination of delicate lace from old master paintings and bold hip-hop jewellery styles are the main inspiration for this collection.

What do you find inspiring about pearls?
I love the alluring shine and elegant colour. I never get tired of looking at pearls or mother-of-pearl as they always have different shades, colour and shine.

What have you discovered about working with pearls?
Pearl accessories always appear along with lace pieces in old master portraits, they both share the same language of delicacy and elegance. In my final collection I wanted to design pieces with both boldness and delicacy. Mother-of-pearl as a material offers me the biggest surface to apply the lace patterns with the way I join them together, which allows me to create a bold yet elegant feel.

Which designer or artist do you most admire?
Andrew Grima.

Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
Confident and fearless people.

What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic?
Highlight the best characteristics of a material and approach it in an unexpected and unique way.

What’s next for you after CSM?
I would like to further my career as a jeweller and aim to join the design department of a jewellery company.

View more of Yayun's work here.

 



Yichen Dong

Tell us a little bit about yourself.
I am from China. I like witty and unexpected contemporary designs, and to think conceptually.

What was the inspiration for the 'Be who you want to be’ collection?
I was inspired by stereotypes around transgender, transvestism, LGBT and roles of each gender. I admire those people who are brave enough to express their true identity.

What do you find inspiring about pearls?
To use pearl as a metaphor and a response. I found pearls necklace represent purity and elegance in commonsense, and I am interested in creating contrasts and bring the pearl out of this ‘stereotype’.

What have you discovered about working with pearls?
The single pearl can be a jewellery piece with many possibilities. The colour, its glow and shape can tell lots of stories.

Which designer or artist do you most admire?
Akiko Kurihara. Her works are witty, clever and unexpected with a great sense of humour.

Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
People who need encouragement to express identity and to find who they are.

What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic?
The relationship between materials and the story behind the jewellery makes a piece classic and unique.

What’s next for you after CSM?
I’ve got offer and will continue jewellery study in RCA.

View more of Yichens's work here.

Each year we work with the student jewellery designers at Central Saint Martins in London, giving them an opportunity to experience designing with pearls for their final year collections.

We will be awarding the Winterson Prize 2018 to one of the students for ‘The Best Use of Pearls’ at the CSM Jewellery Awards Evening on 21st June. The BA Jewellery graduate collections are exhibited at CSM and open to the public from June 20th - 24th.

Here we feature the first part in a series of short interviews with designers from the CSM Jewellery 2018 show, including in this article - Aidan Madden, Bam Jansanjai, Beichen Guan, Biying Chen and Gabriella Goldsmith.

Read Part II of this series and about Aidan Madden, the winner of this year's prize.

 



Aidan Madden

Tell us a little bit about yourself.
I sit somewhere between contempory and fine jewelry. I appreciate tradition, but like to turn it on its head.

What was the inspiration for the 'Pearl Culture' collection?
Initially, I had no interest in pearls. This was a good starting point, as I hadn't any preconceptions of how they should be represented. This pushed me to change them significantly through unconventional methods.

What do you find inspiring about pearls?
I find there is much more potential as a material rather an embelishment. Once you begin to cut and join them they have infinite potential.

What have you discovered about working with pearls?
Exposing the pearls' nucleus is what drew my attention, prompting the series of ‘pearl faces’ and pearl tubes.

Which designer or artist do you most admire?
Taffin and Hemmerle; they do things differently and have an experimental way of working with materials.

Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
My collection is playful and diverse so I feel it will reach out to a broad spectrum of people.

What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic?
A design that transcends the current trends.

What’s next for you after CSM?
I would like to continue working with pearls and expanding on my collection.

 



Bam Jansanjai

Tell us a little bit about yourself.
I like working in positive, playful and unique designs with different materials creating jewellery with stories. So my jewellery is the way that I express myself to other people.

What was the inspiration for the 'How to Wear Good Luck' collection?
I think it is very interesting how people give objects the meaning and value that represent something spiritual and how one object can mean something to someone. So I wanted to explore a context of jewellery that is more than just an adornment, a jewellery that brings luck to the wearers or at least brings a positive energy to them. This collection is inspired by 13 old good luck superstitions that are converted into a wearable jewellery in modern context.

What do you find inspiring about pearls?
One of the pieces in my collection is called “Magic Mole”. People believe that moles indicate luck so I made pearl moles that ones can stick on their faces in the position where they want to enhance the luck. So I want to add value to the mole and to emphasize their specialness with pearl.

What have you discovered about working with pearls?
Pearls are very fragile. Working with them required a lot of patience but it somehow gave me calmness.

Which designer or artist do you most admire?
Alessandro Michele.

Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
Everyone. Basically, anyone who wants to brighten up their day with a little help from good luck jewellery.

What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic?
The concept and a good design that capture everyone’s attention.

What’s next for you after CSM?
For me, being successful in competitive world of design requires a lot more than just design skills. So I have decided to do MA in Luxury Brand Management.

View more of Bam's work here.

 



Beichen Guan (Esther)

Tell us a little bit about yourself. 
I am a Chinese student who has studied in Central Saints Martin BA Jewelry Design for 3 years. I am super interested about Architectural design and Installation art, it also can be a skill in several artistic mediums.

What was the inspiration for the 'Ultra Sparking Smiles' collection?
For this collection, inspired from the star pattern of “emoji ” that people easily can understand, into those teeth whitening products and tools. In a entertaining way to show people just like me who try so hard to whiten their teeth because of the aesthetic feeling pressures from society.

What do you find inspiring about pearls?
Lots of people adore the pearly whitened teeth that those Hollywood stars have after 2000. I am trying to find the way to showing my feeling of teeth whitening industry as jewelry designer. The variety of a pearl’s shape and color make a really good figure of human teeth.

What have you discovered about working with pearls?
I try to used mother of pearl carving skills to cut out a rhombus shinning pattern that describes the message of dental teeth whitening.  Also I using graduated color to represent the different aesthetic varieties of subcultures related to the teeth whitening.

Which designer or artist do you most admire? 
I find such designers brand as Ambush, Dubellier and Schield to be highly inspiring and contemporary.

Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
This collection is quite personal as it's my point of view. It's talking about the people who like me, wish to whiten their teeth to have the pearly shining teeth like those stars have.

What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic?
Probably just like Melvyn Kirtley, Tiffany chief gemologist said, “ always pushing the boundaries of innovation, and doing things that we’ve never done before.”

What’s next for you after CSM?
I will try to do some internship jobs after I graduate, to learn more things outside of college.

View more of Beichen's work here.

 



Biying Chen

Tell us a little bit about yourself.
My name is Biying and I am from China. My jewellery always has a strong interaction with the wearer.

What was the inspiration for the 'Jewellery Shop' collection?
I found customers’ and salesperson’s attitude to display items were entirely different during my work experience in 2016, which led me think about the value of display props.The comparison of the shop window in the day and night was my direct inspiration. At night, jewellery pieces are often removed and stored for safety. It seems that the display props become the protagonist in the showcase.In this collection, I used the preciousness of pearls to question and highlight the value of display props.

What do you find inspiring about pearls?
Pearls are not as aggressive as other gemstones. With their natural, random lustre and general relatively smooth edges, for me, pearls can reflect the softness of femininity.

What have you discovered about working with pearls?
Although not all the pearls are exactly the same size when I ask a specific size in the shop, I find it even more natural which gives a contrast to the precise machine work.

Which designer or artist do you most admire?
Otto Künzli and Giorgio Morandi.

Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
Energetic and playful people.

What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic?
The particular concept behind a piece is the most crucial factor.

What’s next for you after CSM?
I woud like to learn more about the jewellery industry and start to set up my own business.

 



Gabriella Mika Goldsmith

Tell us a little bit about yourself.
I was born and raised in Denmark. With an American dad and a Danish mom, I always felt the need of travelling which eventually led me to move to London to continue my further education. I have found that studying jewellery and living in London has given me the insight to a world of wonderful odd eccentrics and charismas.

What was the inspiration for this collection?
The collection reflects on my inner sub-conscious that allows to dream away by presenting identity’s different from the one you see in real life thus the facial features presented throughout the work. I was inspired by the thoughts behind surrealism and therefor the bubbles have become an instrument to allow one to sooth away by recapturing childhood moments disturbing the rational.

What do you find inspiring about pearls?
Each cultured pearl is unique, and I find it fascinating how we can use these water-made species in our jewellery. They are subtle but have a beautiful glaze with their skin like colours.

What have you discovered about working with pearls?
That they are extremely fragile, that there are so many different types of “real” pearls, and that they shouldn’t be regarded as a conservative jewel!

Which designer or artist do you most admire?
Tone Vigeland and Alexander McQueen – and so many others!

Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
Anyone who are willing to challenge conventional jewellery and has an appreciation for the craft.

What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic?
A design that everyone can appreciate, is timeless with the highest level of craftsmanship.

What’s next for you after CSM?
I have just been accepted for an MA at Sandberg Institute in Amsterdam.

View more of Gabriella's work here.

Yanmi Lui was announced as the winner of the 2017 Winterson Prize for the Best Use of Pearls at Central Saint Martins, London last night, where eclectic degree collections from jewellery's future designers went on display.

The influential arts institute’s annual graduate show saw students presenting original pearl pieces, created with advice and support from Winterson Director Andrew Fraser and Creative Director Alice Cicolini.



Yanmi Lui was named this year’s winner of the Winterson Pearl prize for her collection ‘Modern Self-defence Armour & Weaponry’, a playful set of self-defense weaponry that drew inspiration from bio-mimicry design and an interest in martial arts.

Each year the prize celebrates an appreciation and understanding of the qualities of the pearl. With such an original and diverse group of work this year, Yanmi was an excellent winner.



Image 1: Pearl dispenser necklace
Image 2: Bottle cuff

Yanmi described her collection to us: “My collection was inspired by the natural defense systems of animals and plants. I was already interested in the culture of martial arts and its relevance in today's modern society. I tried to mimic organic colours, functions and textures from insects and spiders in my work. The delicate and iridescent qualities of the pearl provided a perfect balance to the sharpness of the designs.”



Image: Shield

"As a designer, I continue to question, what outcomes do I want to achieve from the objects I create? What is the relationship, the interaction, between our most precious-valued objects and to wear them so close on our body? Through the process of exploring this unspoken language, I continue to develop a creative vision of what pieces I want to make and share with others. I enjoy using the artistic freedom in jewellery, aligned by functional design. It is always very delightful to see others wear my pieces, embodying it in their style and interacting with them."



Image: Lipstick shooter

"Through studying my Bachelor degree at Central St. Martins, I learnt the importance of craftsmanship because only by trying, failing and repeating, we gain true understanding as a designer. However, my experience in working with the industry, has also taught me the importance of mass manufacturing being essential to provide for a larger community. I enjoy introducing a craft dimension to functional, usually industrialized objects, for example, the lipstick piece in my graduate collection. My future plan is to gain more understanding of three-dimensional applied technologies on a Masters level, so that I can bridge the gap between the designer and maker."

 

Pearl blowguns, an eyeball necklace with a dispensing system for pearls, geometric knuckle rings, kevlar shields and an over-sized pearl bottle cuff with Braille lettering formed some of the equipment and hidden details in the collection.

Caroline Broadhead, BA jewellery Design Course Leader commented "Using pearls as a weapon for self-defense is a cunning idea. Yanmi’s collection of jewellery and objects is imaginative and inventive."



Image 1: Knuckle rings and Lipstick shooter
Image 2: Utility rings

Commenting on the award, Winterson's Creative Director Alice Cicolini said "We were impressed with the way that Yanmi made a clear conceptual connection between the origins of the pearl and her sources of inspiration. It is thought that natural pearls are created by a mollusc as a form of protection, a concept that Yanmi placed at the core of her self-defence collection. The pearl necklace is one of the most enduring luxury jewellery pieces; Yanmi plays with this symbolism, creating a fanciful piece where the pearls represent a source of empowerment as well as adornment."

An original and very well deserved winner for this year's prize, congratulations Yanmi!

Read more about Yanmi Lui and the other CSM designers' work here.