News & Events
-
Introducing the Mythologie Dewdrops
Introducing the Mythologie Dewdrops
New to the Mythologie collection is the refined simplicity of the Dewdrop earrings and pendants.
The Mythologie collection is inspired by the legends of the teardrop pearl throughout history. A symbol of new beginnings, pearls make a perfect gift for Christmas and the new year to come.
Celebrating the pearl's history as a symbol of purity, love and wisdom, the elongated drop shape of the design captures the sparkle of morning dew, which some ancient cultures believed was crystallised into a pearl.
Image 1: Mythologie Dewdrop Akoya Pearl Earrings in White Gold
Image 2: Mythologie Dewdrop Akoya Pearl Pendant in White Gold
The Ancient Greeks believed that pearls were the tears of the Gods, and that wearing pearls for a wedding would protect the bride from tears and sorrow. Over generations the pearl’s connections with innocence, beauty and purity have made it the perfect gemstone for a bride.
Image 1: Mythologie Dewdrop Akoya Pearl Earrings in Rose Gold
Image 2: Mythologie Dewdrop Akoya Pearl Pendant in Rose Gold
Hindu folklore refers to the pearl as a dewdrop, falling from the night sky into the moonlit sea, where Krishna, the god of love, plucks it from the ocean floor as a bridal gift for his daughter. Show your love for that special someone with a stunning new Mythologie Dewdrop set this Christmas.
Image 1: Mythologie Dewdrop Akoya Pearl Earrings in Yellow Gold
Image 2: Mythologie Dewdrop Akoya Pearl Pendant in Yellow Gold
Each elegant Dewdrop is crafted with a beautiful Akoya pearl, topped by a pave of brilliant cut diamonds, and hand finished in 18 carat white, yellow or rose gold.
A special Dark Dewdrop design is now also available, with the natural tones of Tahitian pearls that are perfect for the evening. -
Aidan Madden, Winner of the Winterson Prize 2018
Aidan Madden, Winner of the Winterson Prize 2018
Aidan Madden was announced as the winner of the 2018 Winterson Prize for the Best Use of Pearls at Central Saint Martins, London last night, where degree collections from jewellery's future stars went on display.
The influential arts institute’s annual graduate show saw students presenting original pearl pieces, created with advice and support from Winterson Director Andrew Fraser and Creative Director Alice Cicolini.
Aidan Madden was named this year’s winner of the Winterson Pearl prize for his collection of single earrings, each finely crafted from freshwater pearls. Aidan has painstakingly fused together, carved and finely lathe-turned the pearls into a series of gently humorous jewels.
Image 1: Arm, by Aidan Madden
Image 2: Face, by Aidan Madden
Aidan's studs reference pop cultural themes from Disney to Alien, using a gemstone that is more commonly associated with classicism and aristocracy. His craftsmanship and attention to detail gives the results a subtlety and delicacy that ensures his work stands out from similar concepts.
Aidan described his collection to us: “I did not start this project with any preconceptions of the pearl. As soon as I started to cut and join them, their playful pearl faces begin to appear and it seemed that the approach had infinite potential to create a diverse and accessible series of earrings.”
Image 1: Bug Eye, by Aidan Madden
Image 2: Cube, by Aidan Madden
Image 3: Pink and Yellow, by Aidan Madden
Squared studs and alien heads reveal some of the production process behind the creation of freshwater pearls, with visible nacre standing in for ethereal eyes, and the edges of squares retaining the peacock dyes that have been used to colour the pearl.
Image: Pearl Culture, by Aidan Madden
Exquisite carved pearl crowns sit on top of ghostly heads, caterpillars of pearls wrap around to create unique hoops and cartoon characters that are rendered in a fine balance of coloured pearls.
Caroline Broadhead, BA Jewellery Design Course Leader commented "Aidan has investigated different ways of splicing and carving pearls to allow a view through the outer layer of nacre to the pearl on the inside. The collection is small scale and intimate and on close inspection, there is much wit and pleasure in the way he has combined colours and created associations. It is a delightful body of work celebrating the cultured pearl."
Images: Hoop, by Aidan Madden
Commenting on the award, Winterson's Creative Director Alice Cicolini said "We are delighted to celebrate Aidan's intensive investigation of the language of pearl jewellery. Our prize is for innovation with pearls and it was wonderful to see how many students really embraced that idea this year. It was Aidan's commitment to the gemstone as the starting point for his creative exploration that really stood out for us. We are excited to see where this journey takes him - and our perceptions of what a pearl jewel can be."
Each year the prize celebrates an appreciation and understanding of the qualities of the pearl. With such an original and diverse group of work this year, Aidan was an excellent winner. Congratulations Aidan!
Read more about Aidan Madden and the other CSM designers' work here. -
Winterson Prize 2018: Meet the Designers Part II
Winterson Prize 2018: Meet the Designers Part II
Each year we work with the student jewellery designers at Central Saint Martins in London, giving them an opportunity to experience designing with pearls for their final year collections.
We will be awarding the Winterson Prize 2018 to one of the students for ‘The Best Use of Pearls’ at the CSM Jewellery Awards Evening on 21st June. The BA Jewellery graduate collections are exhibited at CSM and open to the public from June 20th - 24th.
Here we feature the first part in a series of short interviews with designers from the CSM Jewellery 2018 show, including in this article - Geraldine Wu, Hannah Cochrane, Isla Gilham, Yayun Fang and Yichen Dong.
Read about the other designers in Part I and Aidan Madden, the winner of this year's prize.
Geraldine Wu
Tell us a little bit about yourself.
I am from Hong Kong and have lived in London for 4 years now. Being immersed in such busy and diverse places my whole life, I can’t be away from the city for too long. I love living in a place where I can experience the past and the present all at once.
What was the inspiration for the 'Ocean Archives' collection?
I was inspired by illuminated manuscripts and their purpose of being visually decorative to ornament text, painting a fuller picture of the story. I wanted to create jewellery that would emulate a similar effect, with the narrative that the collection is a rediscovered treasure hoard. Hence there is an archaic, medieval influence within the designs.
What do you find inspiring about pearls?
I find pearls very poetic. They are quieter and more understated than faceted stones, they allow their soft lustre to speak for themselves. In a sense, they are not competitive for attention, but know their worth. Also given that they originate from bodies of water, they are very fitting within my collection.
What have you discovered about working with pearls?
I discovered that laser engraving them results in an iridescent powdery finish. My favourites were the dark baroque pearls, as the silvery/golden finish stands out most against the dark surface. I love that it looks like the text is stuck within the pearls, suspended in time.
Which designer or artist do you most admire?
Renaissance painters such as Raphael and Botticelli, I’m always in awe of the juxtaposition of dynamism and restraint in Renaissance paintings.
Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
Anyone expressive and likes to curate their own story or character through their dressing.
What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic?
A design that withstands the test of time, something that people always return to.
What’s next for you after CSM?
To learn within the industry and develop my skills as a jewellery designer.
Hannah CochraneTell us a little bit about yourself?
I have always been fascinated by jewellery, from the child who eagerly inspected the fine jewellery adverts plastered around Geneva airport, to the adult who spends far too much time staring at other people’s jewellery on the tube.
What was the inspiration for the 'A Sharper Image' collection?
Inspired by concepts put forward by the field of neuroaesthetics, I researched visual elements and design techniques that would re-occur again and again within jewellery from different countries and cultural backgrounds. An example of this was threading teeth and bone structures together to form cohesive strands. Through analysing different threads of aesthetic preference, I condensed these into a visual style that aligned with my own.
What do you find inspiring about pearls?
To me, the pearl echoes of the first instances of jewellery making: the gathering of beautiful natural objects and using them as adornment.
What have you discovered about working with pearls?
I wanted the otherworldly colour shifts found in some pearls I acquired to be displayed in the best way possible. I found the best way to do this was to find said pearls and then design around them, specifically tailoring the original metal design around it.
Which designer or artist do you most admire?
Too many to count, but currently transfixed by Fernando Jorge's alluring designs.
Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
Quite honestly? Myself.
What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic?
A piece that people remember, not necessarily because it might be unique or groundbreaking, but because it lingers on the mind, long after first seeing it.
What’s next for you after CSM?
I plan to look for experience and work within the field of jewellery.
View more of Hannah's work here.
Isla Gilham
Tell us a little bit about yourself.
Five years ago, I came across a jewellery workshop on the isle of Iona. The pieces reflected and told stories of the island; Celtic patterns, Serpentine pebbles, coastlines and simplistic beauty; It was at this moment, that I knew I wanted to create jewellery too.
What was the inspiration for the 'Temptation' collection?
The cherished family story of my Great-Grandad’s Jelly Tot tiara.
What do you find inspiring about pearls?
That they embody the idea of beauty in an unexpected place; inside a mollusc’s shell. A concept I have taken for my chewing gum, usually seen to be disgusting, adorning the streets.
What have you discovered about working with pearls?
The beauty of laser engraving their surface! It reveals more beautiful tones and has an almost holographic quality.
Which designer or artist do you most admire?
Many, however, this year, I’ve really admired and taken inspiration from Dutch Golden Age paintings which ‘shout’ indulgence and opulence. The paint captures the deliciousness of food in still lives as I try to with precious materials.
Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
Anyone who loves the concept of beautiful, elegant materials but with a playful twist.
What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic?
I think a piece that captures the imagination whilst reflecting and ‘centre staging’ the materials used.
What’s next for you after CSM?
To keep designing, making and being excited by jewellery!
Yayun Fang
Tell us a little bit about yourself.
My name is Yayun. As a jewellery designer, I love working with different materials and exploring the traditional craftsmanship practices in my jewellery. One of my biggest pleasures is seeing people wear a piece of jewellery I made and feeling good wearing it.
What was the inspiration for the 'Hip-Hop Lace' collection?
A combination of delicate lace from old master paintings and bold hip-hop jewellery styles are the main inspiration for this collection.
What do you find inspiring about pearls?
I love the alluring shine and elegant colour. I never get tired of looking at pearls or mother-of-pearl as they always have different shades, colour and shine.
What have you discovered about working with pearls?
Pearl accessories always appear along with lace pieces in old master portraits, they both share the same language of delicacy and elegance. In my final collection I wanted to design pieces with both boldness and delicacy. Mother-of-pearl as a material offers me the biggest surface to apply the lace patterns with the way I join them together, which allows me to create a bold yet elegant feel.
Which designer or artist do you most admire?
Andrew Grima.
Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
Confident and fearless people.
What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic?
Highlight the best characteristics of a material and approach it in an unexpected and unique way.
What’s next for you after CSM?
I would like to further my career as a jeweller and aim to join the design department of a jewellery company.
View more of Yayun's work here.
Yichen Dong
Tell us a little bit about yourself.
I am from China. I like witty and unexpected contemporary designs, and to think conceptually.
What was the inspiration for the 'Be who you want to be’ collection?
I was inspired by stereotypes around transgender, transvestism, LGBT and roles of each gender. I admire those people who are brave enough to express their true identity.
What do you find inspiring about pearls?
To use pearl as a metaphor and a response. I found pearls necklace represent purity and elegance in commonsense, and I am interested in creating contrasts and bring the pearl out of this ‘stereotype’.
What have you discovered about working with pearls?
The single pearl can be a jewellery piece with many possibilities. The colour, its glow and shape can tell lots of stories.
Which designer or artist do you most admire?
Akiko Kurihara. Her works are witty, clever and unexpected with a great sense of humour.
Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
People who need encouragement to express identity and to find who they are.
What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic?
The relationship between materials and the story behind the jewellery makes a piece classic and unique.
What’s next for you after CSM?
I’ve got offer and will continue jewellery study in RCA.
View more of Yichens's work here. -
Winterson Prize 2018: Meet the Designers Part I
Winterson Prize 2018: Meet the Designers Part I
Each year we work with the student jewellery designers at Central Saint Martins in London, giving them an opportunity to experience designing with pearls for their final year collections.
We will be awarding the Winterson Prize 2018 to one of the students for ‘The Best Use of Pearls’ at the CSM Jewellery Awards Evening on 21st June. The BA Jewellery graduate collections are exhibited at CSM and open to the public from June 20th - 24th.
Here we feature the first part in a series of short interviews with designers from the CSM Jewellery 2018 show, including in this article - Aidan Madden, Bam Jansanjai, Beichen Guan, Biying Chen and Gabriella Goldsmith.
Read Part II of this series and about Aidan Madden, the winner of this year's prize.
Aidan Madden
Tell us a little bit about yourself.
I sit somewhere between contempory and fine jewelry. I appreciate tradition, but like to turn it on its head.
What was the inspiration for the 'Pearl Culture' collection?
Initially, I had no interest in pearls. This was a good starting point, as I hadn't any preconceptions of how they should be represented. This pushed me to change them significantly through unconventional methods.
What do you find inspiring about pearls?
I find there is much more potential as a material rather an embelishment. Once you begin to cut and join them they have infinite potential.
What have you discovered about working with pearls?
Exposing the pearls' nucleus is what drew my attention, prompting the series of ‘pearl faces’ and pearl tubes.
Which designer or artist do you most admire?
Taffin and Hemmerle; they do things differently and have an experimental way of working with materials.
Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
My collection is playful and diverse so I feel it will reach out to a broad spectrum of people.
What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic?
A design that transcends the current trends.
What’s next for you after CSM?
I would like to continue working with pearls and expanding on my collection.
Bam Jansanjai
Tell us a little bit about yourself.
I like working in positive, playful and unique designs with different materials creating jewellery with stories. So my jewellery is the way that I express myself to other people.
What was the inspiration for the 'How to Wear Good Luck' collection?
I think it is very interesting how people give objects the meaning and value that represent something spiritual and how one object can mean something to someone. So I wanted to explore a context of jewellery that is more than just an adornment, a jewellery that brings luck to the wearers or at least brings a positive energy to them. This collection is inspired by 13 old good luck superstitions that are converted into a wearable jewellery in modern context.
What do you find inspiring about pearls?
One of the pieces in my collection is called “Magic Mole”. People believe that moles indicate luck so I made pearl moles that ones can stick on their faces in the position where they want to enhance the luck. So I want to add value to the mole and to emphasize their specialness with pearl.
What have you discovered about working with pearls?
Pearls are very fragile. Working with them required a lot of patience but it somehow gave me calmness.
Which designer or artist do you most admire?
Alessandro Michele.
Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
Everyone. Basically, anyone who wants to brighten up their day with a little help from good luck jewellery.
What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic?
The concept and a good design that capture everyone’s attention.
What’s next for you after CSM?
For me, being successful in competitive world of design requires a lot more than just design skills. So I have decided to do MA in Luxury Brand Management.
View more of Bam's work here.
Beichen Guan (Esther)
Tell us a little bit about yourself.
I am a Chinese student who has studied in Central Saints Martin BA Jewelry Design for 3 years. I am super interested about Architectural design and Installation art, it also can be a skill in several artistic mediums.
What was the inspiration for the 'Ultra Sparking Smiles' collection?
For this collection, inspired from the star pattern of “emoji ” that people easily can understand, into those teeth whitening products and tools. In a entertaining way to show people just like me who try so hard to whiten their teeth because of the aesthetic feeling pressures from society.
What do you find inspiring about pearls?
Lots of people adore the pearly whitened teeth that those Hollywood stars have after 2000. I am trying to find the way to showing my feeling of teeth whitening industry as jewelry designer. The variety of a pearl’s shape and color make a really good figure of human teeth.
What have you discovered about working with pearls?
I try to used mother of pearl carving skills to cut out a rhombus shinning pattern that describes the message of dental teeth whitening. Also I using graduated color to represent the different aesthetic varieties of subcultures related to the teeth whitening.
Which designer or artist do you most admire?
I find such designers brand as Ambush, Dubellier and Schield to be highly inspiring and contemporary.
Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
This collection is quite personal as it's my point of view. It's talking about the people who like me, wish to whiten their teeth to have the pearly shining teeth like those stars have.
What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic?
Probably just like Melvyn Kirtley, Tiffany chief gemologist said, “ always pushing the boundaries of innovation, and doing things that we’ve never done before.”
What’s next for you after CSM?
I will try to do some internship jobs after I graduate, to learn more things outside of college.
View more of Beichen's work here.
Biying Chen
Tell us a little bit about yourself.
My name is Biying and I am from China. My jewellery always has a strong interaction with the wearer.
What was the inspiration for the 'Jewellery Shop' collection?
I found customers’ and salesperson’s attitude to display items were entirely different during my work experience in 2016, which led me think about the value of display props.The comparison of the shop window in the day and night was my direct inspiration. At night, jewellery pieces are often removed and stored for safety. It seems that the display props become the protagonist in the showcase.In this collection, I used the preciousness of pearls to question and highlight the value of display props.
What do you find inspiring about pearls?
Pearls are not as aggressive as other gemstones. With their natural, random lustre and general relatively smooth edges, for me, pearls can reflect the softness of femininity.
What have you discovered about working with pearls?
Although not all the pearls are exactly the same size when I ask a specific size in the shop, I find it even more natural which gives a contrast to the precise machine work.
Which designer or artist do you most admire?
Otto Künzli and Giorgio Morandi.
Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
Energetic and playful people.
What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic?
The particular concept behind a piece is the most crucial factor.
What’s next for you after CSM?
I woud like to learn more about the jewellery industry and start to set up my own business.
Gabriella Mika Goldsmith
Tell us a little bit about yourself.
I was born and raised in Denmark. With an American dad and a Danish mom, I always felt the need of travelling which eventually led me to move to London to continue my further education. I have found that studying jewellery and living in London has given me the insight to a world of wonderful odd eccentrics and charismas.
What was the inspiration for this collection?
The collection reflects on my inner sub-conscious that allows to dream away by presenting identity’s different from the one you see in real life thus the facial features presented throughout the work. I was inspired by the thoughts behind surrealism and therefor the bubbles have become an instrument to allow one to sooth away by recapturing childhood moments disturbing the rational.
What do you find inspiring about pearls?
Each cultured pearl is unique, and I find it fascinating how we can use these water-made species in our jewellery. They are subtle but have a beautiful glaze with their skin like colours.
What have you discovered about working with pearls?
That they are extremely fragile, that there are so many different types of “real” pearls, and that they shouldn’t be regarded as a conservative jewel!
Which designer or artist do you most admire?
Tone Vigeland and Alexander McQueen – and so many others!
Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
Anyone who are willing to challenge conventional jewellery and has an appreciation for the craft.
What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic?
A design that everyone can appreciate, is timeless with the highest level of craftsmanship.
What’s next for you after CSM?
I have just been accepted for an MA at Sandberg Institute in Amsterdam.
View more of Gabriella's work here. -
Introducing the stellar Astral collection
Introducing the stellar Astral collection
Astral is our new collection of jewellery, inspired by the stars, and captures the night sky's brilliance in radiant diamonds and heavenly combinations of colourful sapphires.
Grouping three round faceted gemstones as the central motif, the collection also references the occurrence of the number three in nature – from the triangular patterns within major constellations, to the classical trefoil of petals and leaves. The number 3 was believed by ancient cultures to convey good fortune, representing wholeness and the unity of harmony, wisdom and understanding.
Image: Astral Cluster Pendant and Astral Cluster Earrings in Yellow Gold
Taking as our starting point the mirrored configuration of the Summer and Winter Triangles, groupings of major stars that are visible in the height of summer and depth of winter, Astral draws on spectacular celestial events from the Aurora Borealis to the Red Nova, to inspire a selection of gems that are as bold and clear in their colours as they are radiant in their fire.
Astral Cluster showcases its white diamonds to recreate stellar constellations, the groupings of radiant stars that are visible on Earth under clear skies. Comprising a pendant and stud earrings set with 2.5mm or 3mm diamonds, Astral Cluster is available both in 18ct yellow and white gold.
Image 1: Astral Dawn Earrings in White Gold
Image 2: Astral Blaze Earrings in Yellow Gold
Three additional colourways are similarly inspired by spectacular moments in the night sky.
Astral Blaze resembles the sumptuous fire of a magical sunset, with six faceted sapphires in tones of apricot, deep pink and fiery orange hand-set in 18 carat yellow gold. Astral Lagoon captures the opulent reflection of the night skies in ocean water, studded with blue diamonds, tanzanites and deep hued amethysts, hand-set in 18 carat white gold. And Astral Dawn evokes the exquisite break of dawn, as the first rays of sun merge with the stars, captured by six faceted sapphires in tones of purple, pink and rose, hand-set in 18 carat white gold.
Image: The Astral collection
The coloured gemstone series comprises a matching pendant and earrings, hand-set with 3mm gems in 18 carat gold. The Astral studs also form an additional complement to our selection of interchangeable pearls that can be purchased independently. These pearl fittings can already be worn with earrings from the pretty gemstones of our Lief collection to the pave diamond leaves of the Enchanted range.
With the new collection, the Astral Blaze earrings provide a spectacular contrast to the stunning dark hues of the Tahitian pearl, the Astral Lagoon studs are the perfect partner for our peacock Tahitian pearls and the Astral Dawn gems will draw out the rose blush overtones of the white Akoya pearls.
In early December, a stunning leverback drop earring to complement our classic diamond leverback earrings will also feature the Blaze and Lagoon gems set against citrines in rich honey tones and imperial purple amethysts.
View the Astral collection here. -
Shortlisted for the NAJ Website of the Year
Shortlisted for the NAJ Website of the Year
We are delighted and thrilled to announce that Winterson has been shortlisted for 'Website of the Year' in the National Association of Jeweller's annual awards for 2017.
The NAJ is the premier industry association in the UK, representing over 2,000 members that operate in every aspect of jewellery. Winterson has been a member of NAJ since 2010. We are honoured to be chosen amongst our peers to be shortlisted for this award.
A new awards category in 2017, Website of the Year recognises outstanding websites that are customer friendly and inspire the user to make an informed purchase.
As a primary point of contact with our customer, we need Winterson's website to behave as if it were a highly knowledgeable member of our customer service team.
During the past year we have introduced a number of key improvements to the website and we hope that these have enhanced your shopping experience with us. These include making improvements to the website's suggestions and search function, the ease of navigation across the site and its ability to work across different devices.
With our independent partner Feefo, we also ask every customer for their genuine feedback on our services. Pearls have always had a unique beauty and quality. We are really delighted to hear some of the testimonials and real-life connections that have been made with our jewellery.
The winner of the Website of the Year award will be announced at a glittering awards presentation on the 7th of December, attended by almost 400 jewellers.
A big thank you to the NAJ and the judges for shortlisting Winterson! -
Rock Star – The Impressionist Jewels of Andrew Grima
Rock Star – The Impressionist Jewels of Andrew Grima
The largest private collection of Andrew Grima jewellery to appear at auction goes on sale at Bonhams, London this autumn. In this article, we take an admiring look at his work.
Andrew Grima is recognized as one of the great modernist jewellery designers of the 20th century, perhaps the most influential post-war British jeweller.
Such was his influence that Grima jewellery remains highly prized, attracting collectors such as Marc Jacobs and Miuccia Prada, design talents who themselves have defined their generations. In this, he is the designer’s designer - one of the 20th century’s most daring and imaginative.
Image 1: Opal Boulder Pendant
Image 2: Portrait of Andrew Grima
As a result, expect to see a wave of excitement in London this September as one of the largest private collections of jewels by this extraordinary designer ever to appear at auction goes under the hammer at Bonhams.
One of a handful of designers who revolutionized British jewellery in the early 1960s, Grima didn't learn his trade at art school, being entirely self-taught and never trained at the jeweller’s bench. He considered being a pure designer to be an advantage – his imaginative ideas were never confined by technicalities or ingrained concepts of what constituted fine jewellery.
Image 1: Amethyst Earrings
Image 2: Citrine Diamond Bracelet
Grima’s groundbreaking designs, which drew inspiration from art, sculpture and the natural world, injected desperately needed originality and glamour into what had become a stagnant jewellery scene in post-war Britain. He created bold and unusual jewels whose value lay in their aesthetic composition rather than just in the carat weight of expensive diamonds and precious gems.
His journey began, appropriately, with a large cache of natural Brazilian stones - aquamarines, citrines, tourmalines and rough amethysts – that became a trademark for the young designer. Scouring the natural world for textures – bark, shell, moss – he created abstract shapes with rough stones at a scale that was distinctly different even from that of Jean Schlumberger and Fulco de Vedura, both bold and radical designers in their day.
Image 1: Pearl Ring
Image 2: Pearl Earclips
He also perfected direct casts from nature in what became one of his most distinctive styles, famously capturing in gold some lichen for HM Princess Margaret, covering the results – and similar temporal fragments – with a scattering of diamonds.
The 1960s saw the charismatic Anglo-Italian emerge as the go-to society jeweller for royals, celebrities, socialites and artists and his earliest clients included HM The Queen, the Princess Margaret, Jackie Kennedy Onassis and Bond Girl Ursula Andress. He won the De Beers Diamonds International Award (the Oscars of jewellery design) a record 12 times and, in 1969, was commissioned by Omega to create one of the most outrageous and daring watch collections ever made. In 1970 he was also granted a Royal Warrant from HM The Queen.
Image: Amethyst Ring
His interest in natural forms extended to a love of both opals and pearls, which featured regularly in his work. Each of the gems is defined by individual uniqueness in the way that they are formed – no one piece looks quite like another in terms of fire or, in the case of pearls, lustre and overtone.
The Bonhams sale features a gold, boulder opal and diamond pendant/necklace from 1972, alongside a selection of 55 pieces from his legendary collection for watchmaker Omega, and an additional 30 jewels, featuring his trademark palette of citrines, amethysts and aquamarines.
“Andrew Grima’s work is distinct in terms of its design, quality and originality,” says Emily Barber, Director of Bonhams Jewellery. “He was essentially an artist whose medium happened to be jewellery. His designs capture the spirit of each era in which he worked yet are still immensely wearable and contemporary today.”
Image 1: Pearl Oyster Necklace
Image 2: Pearl Earclips
The current owner of the collection, who wishes to remain anonymous, commented: “When you look at a piece of Grima jewellery you are moved by exquisite artistry in much the same way that you would be moved standing in front of a beautiful painting. In fact, for me, Andrew Grima is the great impressionist of jewellers.”
The Bonhams sale of Fine Jewellery, including a Private Collection of Jewels by Grima, will be held on 20th September 2017. Learn more about Andrew Grima, and the continuation of his work by his wife Jojo and daughter Francesca, here. -
Hella Jongerius is Breathing Colour at the Design Museum
Hella Jongerius is Breathing Colour at the Design Museum
Breathing Colour, the new show by Hella Jongerius at London’s Design Museum, is the culmination of 15 years of research by one of the Netherlands' most renowned designers.
Graduating from the Eindhoven Design Academy in the early 1990s, Hella Jongerius was part of a generation of young designers exploring the boundaries between conceptual design, industrial production and emotional engagement in objects. Breathing Colour takes a sustained look at the behavior of colour – on flat and three-dimensional surfaces, and across the arc of a day – and our emotional response to it.
Taking Monet’s Haystack as a starting point, Jongerius makes a case for embracing the way in which colours change at different stages of light intensity across a 24-hour period. She explains, “There is a phenomenon in colorimetry called Metamerism. This was the starting point in my colour research. It occurs when colours are viewed in different conditions, and describes the effect when two colours appear to match even though they might not actually do so.”
Jongerius goes on to explain that much industrial colour research has focused on eradicating what is viewed as a problem, towards a goal of achieving ‘consistent’ colours, “but I want to make a plea to use layered pigments which provide intense colours that are allowed to breathe with changing light,” she states.
Designed to capture these subtle shifts of light, Jongerius’s Colour Catchers form the spine of the show. Beginning life as complex cardboard patterns, before being realised as large-scale ceramic forms, their convex faceted surfaces absorb and reflect colour to become a series of three-dimensional colour charts – revealing gradations of the object’s own colour, affected by light and mixed with reflections from their surrounding forms.
The exhibition sets out to demonstrate how emotionally powerful and engaging it can be to see colour play a mutable role in the design of objects. Beginning in the ‘Morning’, Jongerius captures the hazy quality of dawn light in textile panels and colour crystals, followed by the blue glow of sunrise into the warm intensity of ‘Noon’.
A series of woven panels, the Woven Movie, inspired by Bauhaus textile designer Anni Albers, capture this shift in the depth of colour, supported by a series of projections that capture the shadow play of midday.
The ‘Evening’ section is a striking exploration of black, a focus of Jongerius’s research for two decades. Rejecting the industrial use of carbon to create black, Hella Jongerius reminds us that there are over ten alternative ways to create darker hues by optically mixing a limited palette of yarns, textures and materials.
Towards the end of the exhibition, Jongerius presents her Colour Vases a series of 100 unique works from 2010 as part of her studio’s research into minerals and oxides, no longer industrially used as a source of pigmentation due to their instability.
The vases capture perfectly Jongerius’s plea for colours to play a living role. Jongerius argues that industrial fixing and standardized colour have narrowed our experiences of colour and its cultural meanings.
Breathing Colour by Hella Jongerius brilliantly explores how we relate to colour in a more intimate and personal way. The exhibition is open at the Design Museum, London until 24th September 2017. For more information, or to book tickets, follow the link here. -
Yanmi Lui, Winner of the Winterson Prize 2017
Yanmi Lui, Winner of the Winterson Prize 2017
Yanmi Lui was announced as the winner of the 2017 Winterson Prize for the Best Use of Pearls at Central Saint Martins, London last night, where eclectic degree collections from jewellery's future designers went on display.
The influential arts institute’s annual graduate show saw students presenting original pearl pieces, created with advice and support from Winterson Director Andrew Fraser and Creative Director Alice Cicolini.
Yanmi Lui was named this year’s winner of the Winterson Pearl prize for her collection ‘Modern Self-defence Armour & Weaponry’, a playful set of self-defense weaponry that drew inspiration from bio-mimicry design and an interest in martial arts.
Each year the prize celebrates an appreciation and understanding of the qualities of the pearl. With such an original and diverse group of work this year, Yanmi was an excellent winner.
Image 1: Pearl dispenser necklace
Image 2: Bottle cuff
Yanmi described her collection to us: “My collection was inspired by the natural defense systems of animals and plants. I was already interested in the culture of martial arts and its relevance in today's modern society. I tried to mimic organic colours, functions and textures from insects and spiders in my work. The delicate and iridescent qualities of the pearl provided a perfect balance to the sharpness of the designs.”
Image: Shield
"As a designer, I continue to question, what outcomes do I want to achieve from the objects I create? What is the relationship, the interaction, between our most precious-valued objects and to wear them so close on our body? Through the process of exploring this unspoken language, I continue to develop a creative vision of what pieces I want to make and share with others. I enjoy using the artistic freedom in jewellery, aligned by functional design. It is always very delightful to see others wear my pieces, embodying it in their style and interacting with them."
Image: Lipstick shooter
"Through studying my Bachelor degree at Central St. Martins, I learnt the importance of craftsmanship because only by trying, failing and repeating, we gain true understanding as a designer. However, my experience in working with the industry, has also taught me the importance of mass manufacturing being essential to provide for a larger community. I enjoy introducing a craft dimension to functional, usually industrialized objects, for example, the lipstick piece in my graduate collection. My future plan is to gain more understanding of three-dimensional applied technologies on a Masters level, so that I can bridge the gap between the designer and maker."
Pearl blowguns, an eyeball necklace with a dispensing system for pearls, geometric knuckle rings, kevlar shields and an over-sized pearl bottle cuff with Braille lettering formed some of the equipment and hidden details in the collection.
Caroline Broadhead, BA jewellery Design Course Leader commented "Using pearls as a weapon for self-defense is a cunning idea. Yanmi’s collection of jewellery and objects is imaginative and inventive."
Image 1: Knuckle rings and Lipstick shooter
Image 2: Utility rings
Commenting on the award, Winterson's Creative Director Alice Cicolini said "We were impressed with the way that Yanmi made a clear conceptual connection between the origins of the pearl and her sources of inspiration. It is thought that natural pearls are created by a mollusc as a form of protection, a concept that Yanmi placed at the core of her self-defence collection. The pearl necklace is one of the most enduring luxury jewellery pieces; Yanmi plays with this symbolism, creating a fanciful piece where the pearls represent a source of empowerment as well as adornment."
An original and very well deserved winner for this year's prize, congratulations Yanmi!
Read more about Yanmi Lui and the other CSM designers' work here. -
Winterson Prize 2017: Meet The Designers Part II
Winterson Prize 2017: Meet The Designers Part II
Each year we work with the student jewellery designers at Central Saint Martins in London, giving them an opportunity to experience designing with pearls for their final year collections.
We will be awarding the Winterson Prize 2017 to one of the students for ‘The Best Use of Pearls’ at the CSM Jewellery Awards Evening on 22nd June.
The BA Jewellery graduate collections are exhibited at CSM and open to the public from June 21st - 25th.
Here we feature the final part in a series of short interviews with designers from the CSM Jewellery 2017 show, including in this article - Maria Mungsommai, Ruhong Chen, Xiaoyu (Coco) Guan, Xindi Nie, Yanmi Lui and Yingping Shen.
Read about the other designers in Part I of this series and the winner of this year's prize.
Maria Mungsommai
Tell us a little bit about yourself.
I'm from Thailand and I have lived in the UK for 7 years so far. I came from an academic background and London gifted me with the love for art. Growing up in two vibrant places, I have always been inspired by the eclecticism of both cities and the subject of psychology. Jewellery, for me, is very special. It's magical how such small objects can mean so much.
What was the inspiration for the 'Rose Glass' collection?
It started from a stroll down the jewellery bridge in Ponte Vecchio, watching people looking at fine jewellery window display and asking what is jewellery to them. When looking at fine jewellery such as an engagement ring, it's like there is an instant rose-tinted glass filter. Rose glass is about the romantic desire for fine jewellery. Seeing them and wanting them. Taking inspiration from window displays, for instance, the frame, the glass and the jewellery stand themselves, looking at how jewellery are presented. I wanted to create that romance of seeing jewellery placed behind a glass.
What do you find inspiring about pearls?
Pearls are really romantic in a sentimental way. For me pearls portray a true nuance of romance. Fragile, subtle, a beautiful imperfection. The lustre sort of resembles human skin as well. There's a softness to a pearl that can't be seen in other gemstones.
What have you discovered about working with pearls?
Every single one of them is unique. The dimples and colour differences in each one of them I find very beautiful. Handling them makes you feel instantly more elegant as well (hahaha).
Which designer or artist do you most admire?
There's so many! But if I have to choose I'd say I love the work of Louise Bourgeois and Raf Simons.
Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
Hmm.. I think they'll look good on Mia Goth.
What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic?
Can I say whenever there's a pearl in the design? Haha. Well, I think a design is classic when there's some sense of subtlety in it.
What’s next for you after CSM?
I'm planning to do an MA in art business at Sotheby's.
Ruhong Chen
Tell us a little bit about yourself.
I have a passion in art & design and have known that I will work within these area since I was a child. In high school, I studied for two years an A-level in Product design, photography and fine art. Then I studied foundation in CSM and luckily got into BA jewellery. Last year I meet Jewellery Master Catherine Mannheim and studied with her for one month.
What was the inspiration for the 'Ornaments and Pearls' collection?
My collection was started by the idea of conveying a moment of pause and the peacefulness within. Inspired by Edmund de Waal’s project with the same title 'White' (2015- 2016), my research started by looking at the quality of the colour white. I perceive white as being silent, a very powerful quality. And that is why I make all my collection mostly in a silver white finish.
My design has been playing with second-hand ornaments for example; little toys, house decorative adornments, as well as something I personally owned. Ornaments I gathered from second hand market are sentimental objects, carrying the element of memories. By taking away the color, reworking from the form of those ornaments, I have been thinking how memories and white color can both deliever a new perspective to perceive the present world and what was in the past.
Inspired by the Maisie Broadhead art installation ‘pearls’, I like to use the forms of pearl strands in my design so that they appear to have airiness and movement. Initially the use of pearls wasn’t the main focus. However soon my first piece was made, which is a sleeping kitten playing with a pearl necklace. I think it conceptually challenges the traditional use of pearl jewellery. The pearl necklace in history, as seen in most classical paintings, often stands for decorum, hierarchy status and luxury. Here the pearls are being disrupted by the kitten’s sense of playfulness. The sense of subversiveness is strong, and so I adjusted my design direction to focus on the use of pearls, especially pearl strands. Considering how it can interact with the ornament, and how it brings out the preciousness of silver.
What do you find inspiring about pearls?
Unlike a diamond, which often dazzling and sharp, the beauty of pearls is more subtle, natural and refreshing. I am inspired by its varied luster and colour, especially as it appears like a rainbow, and the pearl’s different shapes are also fascinating. Using pearls with precious metal, it can really transform the metal, bringing a new liveliness.
What have you discovered about working with pearls?
I discovered that there are lots of ways to use pearls, It could simply be attached by gluing, or it can be applied by stone setting techniques, stringing, wiring, beading, crocheting and so on. More complex techniques to use pearls doesn’t make the work more valuable, the value come from how the use of pearl links to the context of the jewellery and how it makes a story as a whole. The visual quality of purity from pearls is also my focus when I work with pearls.
Which designer or artist do you most admire?
For jewellery design, I admire Otto Kunzli with his minimalism and the use of a witty metaphor in his jewellery, for example the work ‘Gold makes you blind bracelet‘. The gold is concealed in black rubber, the shape forming a gold diamond ring that most people would have.
In fine art area, I like Henri Matisse for his art of strongly expressive human body forms, for example ‘the dance’, as well as his paper cut works that are energetic, and have a curiosity for wondering.
Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
Middle aged women who have studied or work in fashion or an art associated area. Having a sense of humor, passionate about life, appreciates the beauty of simplicity and enjoys wearing pearls.
What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic?
Knowing the aim of the jewellery, to be open and true to it throughout the design. Inspiration is important but there are lots of refinements needed. A design classic jewellery arising from new ideas should have a personality like people, which gives an intimacy between the wearer and itself. Continuing traditional techniques and to innovate are also important.
What’s next for you after CSM?
Study a Master degree jewellery in the UK, also start up my own jewellery business.
View more of Ruhong's work here.
Xiaoyu (Coco) Guan
Tell us a little bit about yourself.
My name’s Coco. I’m a Chinese girl, staying in London for four years since my foundation course. I learnt Graphic & Communication Design three years in another University in China before, and then I came to CSM to study Jewellery design, which is my favourite major.
What was the inspiration for the 'Beans & Pods' collection?
The theme of this project is about beans and pods. Beans have long been interesting to me as a form and as a metaphor for positive, value, nourishment and potential. I’ve also been intrigued by how many different scales, shapes, textures and colors they come in. Due to the fact that we often eat beans in our daily life, I collected some different types of beans, such as mung beans, red beans and pea, thus, I want to use beans as a project starting point.
What do you find inspiring about pearls?
I’m interested in the shape of pearls. The surface of the pearl could be smooth and free of marks while the overall shape could be round, oval, pear-shaped, or even misshapen. For this project, I chose to use freshwater pearls, because I like the natural shapes. I feel they’re really like the real beans in the natural.
What have you discovered about working with pearls?
I feel quite good when I worked with them. It’s interesting to stitch pearls to metal.
Which designer or artist do you most admire?
My favorite jewellery designer is Peter Chang, who produces mainly jewellery in the form of bangles/bracelets and brooches. He uses a variety of methods to achieve the bright colors and bizarre shapes. The colors red and yellow were especially popular, and form a color combination often seen in Chang's work.
From his work, I started to understand and explore how colors work together, the responses color provokes in a viewer, and what color symbolizes in nature. For instance, for this project, I made my own color palette and started to overlay many layers of colors on the bean’s surface, meanwhile, I still keep the single color for some of them.
Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
I think most of female will love my woks, because of the colors. For the whole collections, I used a lot of bright color, as the aim was to bring people limitless happiness when they try or see my works. And it’s also the main meaning of my works. I hope people can feel happy and get lucky when they wear them.
What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic?
I think it’s the meaning and story behind that piece. The appearance of a jewellery, the color, or the shape should be attractive for people to stop by, but when you understand the story behind it or what it really means, you will appreciate it forever.
What’s next for you after CSM?
I already got a MA Jewellery design offer from CSM. Therefore, I’ll still stay London to finish the course and learn more things.
Xindi Nie
Tell us a little bit about yourself.
I’m 22 years old and interested in installation art pieces.
What was the inspiration for the 'Incidental Poetry' collection?
The integration of irrelevant objects fascinates me greatly with the sense of surrealism that is created by the process of clashing and combining. Such events occur accidentally all the time in our day to day lives, objects being turned into another form of existence which also serves an entirely different purpose.
On the other hand, does jewellery possess an ability to influence or even entirely replace the being of ordinary objects in a traditional manner?
What do you find inspiring about pearls?
Pearls are my favorite material, they are unique among other jewellery materials, such as metals and stones, as they are relatively softer and contains gentle sheen. Pearls play a essential role in my collection.
What have you discovered about working with pearls?
The techniques of using pearls is a different category compared with other jewellery techniques that I learned before. I was very impressed with the way of stringing pearls, and french wire finishing techniques.
Which designer or artist do you most admire?
Artist: Giorgio Morandi, Roni Horn, Lois Weinberger, Mark Manders
Designers: Reka Lorincz, Marc Monzo, Bernhard Schobinger, Hands Stofer
Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
I would like to think of my works as art pieces, which is a homage for Giorgio Morandi. His paintings inspired me a lot.
What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic?
The concept behind the design makes a piece of jewellery meaningful and classic.
What’s next for you after CSM?
I’m applying for an MA course at this moment.
Yanmi Lui
Tell us a little bit about yourself.
I am always curious about things and I let my mind wander when I’m travelling.
What was the inspiration for the 'Modern Self-defence Armour & Weaponry' collection?
Initially, I am inspired by the culture of different types of martial arts that do and do not use weapons in self-defence, because this form of fighting is integral to many security-related professions e.g. hostess, guards, military training. I enjoyed researching the developmental process of creating a weapon and analysing its changing values in the progress of a modernizing society.
Secondly, Biomimicry: I find the natural design systems in organisms fascinating, especially at a very small scale in insect defence mechanisms.
What do you find inspiring about pearls?
Most defence mechanisms have sharp, warning shapes and textures. I chose to use the iridescent and ‘soft’ qualities of pearls as embellishments to counteract with ‘aggressive’ forms. The way that pearls are formed is a type of natural defence mechanism – molluscs use layers of iridescent nacre to wrap around the intruder, forming a pearl.
What have you discovered about working with pearls?
They are very versatile to work with.
Which designer or artist do you most admire?
Jackson Pollock (Abstract Artist)
Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
‘Cheeky’, playful people who like hidden surprises.
What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic?
Memorable, stand-out elements in a piece of jewellery; something that is understood by a big audience. A technique that is shared and practiced by many people i.e. a class strand of pearl necklace is made from specific string knotting techniques.
What’s next for you after CSM?
Work to learn more about the industry hands-on, or if because of visa limitations, I am deciding to learn more about functioning systems on a Masters level.
View more of Yanmi's work here.
Yingping Shen
Tell us a little bit about yourself.
I am from China, I studied jewellery identification in China.
I like to combine other design elements into my jewellery, such as fashion and architecture. I think I don’t want to be an artist, I want to be a good jewellery designer in the future, making jewellery between fine and contemporary.
What was the inspiration for the 'Breathing' collection?
I was inspired by the cityscape. I saw the busy buildings in the city, and endlessly windows on the buildings, so many people working inside day by day. I wanted to express a fervent desire to escape from the city’s asphyxiating environment. I used different colours (black and white), different shapes, and some moving parts on the jewellery to express people's need to breathe. Pearls and precious stones express the people (precious) in the buildings.
What do you find inspiring about pearls?
This is my first time that I have used pearls in my jewellery.
I think jewellery with a pearl, and without a pearl are very different, with a pearl that can make a jewellery more feminine.
I think it is very good for my collection, because my collection is based on so many cubes and straight lines, it looks very masculine, but the use of round pearls can change this.
What have you discovered about working with pearls?
I bought some half drill pearls to work, and when I put pearls into the pins, around the holes, the pearls are very easy to break.
Which designer or artist do you most admire?
I like Renzo Piano, the architecture designer.
Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
I want to make some jewellery for everyone, unisex, and all ages.
What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic?
I think contemporary jewellery needs a very good story or idea. And fine jewelry needs a good design and good material.
What’s next for you after CSM?
Find a job and make my own brand.