News & Events

With September quickly fading into the Autumn, we look back to some of the SS14 jewellery and pearls that excited our attention this season at London Fashion Week.

Rock Vault, curated by jeweller Stephen Webster, is a showcase of ten of the most talented designers working in the UK. The initiative is into its fourth season and a perfect opportunity for press and buyers alike to see the group's new collections.

ALICE CICOLINI

Alice Cicolini's colourful new Kimono Collection, explores traditional patterns within circles and using her trademark enamelling techniques. The Kimono pieces mix vitreous enamel with vintage hand cut diamonds, polished opals and some truly fabulous pearls!

Our forthcoming Beau collection with Alice Cicolini, was also on show for the first time. We are very excited to be launching it at Winterson soon.

MELANIE GEORGACOPOULOS

Contemporary designer Melanie Georgacopoulos is admired for challenging traditional notions of what pearls mean in today's world.

Her previous work has included splitting cultured pearls in half to reveal the concentric layers of nacre inside and drilling pearls from the inside out to leave a skeletal shell of its surface.

Previewing her new SS14 for M/G Tasaki, a collaboration with the Japanese fine jeweller, Melanie's collection featured white Freshwater pearls and stretched 18 carat gold chain. We loved the inventiveness of this ring.

Also on show was Melanie's new fine jewellery line of necklaces, pendants and earrings, exploring the relationship between pearls and diamonds that have been set in cages of 18 carat gold.

ORNELLA IANNUZZI

A welcome addition to the Rock Vault this September was Ornella Iannuzzi's coral fantasy pieces, which set a variety of colourful Freshwater and Tahitian pearls in gold and silver forms that have been inspired by nature.

Ornella Iannuzzi is best known for her sculptural, organic jewellery that is created by hand in her London studio, such as the fabulous Abyss ring above.

Launching at LFW for SS14 was Les Corallines, a new everyday wear range that continued the volcanic, underwater theme with silver and gold vermeil pieces and these baroque saltwater Tahitian pearls.

The second in a two part series of short interviews with designers from the CSM Jewellery 2013 show features Natha Khunprasert, Ruth Mackin, Sarah Ysabel Dyne Narici and Xue Dong.

Read about some of the other designers in Part I of our interviews here.

NATHA KHUNPRASERT

 

Tell us a bit about yourself.

I grew up wanting to be a fashion designer, and then find my interest in product design to then ultimately realise my true passion lies within jewellery designing and making. I enjoy injecting kitsch element into my work.

What was the inspiration for this piece?

The initial inspiration of my collection projected from my personal interest in the beauty and function of nails, as personal expression of style and extension of our bodies. The project developed into not only the jewellery for nails but instead, jewellery about ‘Fingertips’, where they play significant roles in our lives.

Who is your favourite designer or artist and why?

Melanie Georgacopoulos: I truly admire her ability to give an edge and a more youthful & playful aesthetic to the timeless value of pearls, as well as her talent in creating both equally exciting smaller pieces and big show pieces.

What’s your motto?

“Live life to the fullest”

RUTH MACKIN

 

Tell us a bit about yourself.

My name is Ruth Mackin and I was born in Vanuatu in the South Pacific. My family and I later moved to the Cayman Islands returning to Britain for my secondary education. Arts Foundation was great fun at Chesterfield College, then on to CSM. I love creating miniature detail in my creative work and hope this shows through in my design process.

What was the inspiration for this piece?

Fond memories of tropical seas and the brilliant colours of the ocean. Even now watching the ebb and flow of the tides as they sweep through rock pools. Feeding sea anemones tiny scraps of fish.

What’s next for you?

I spent a very varied and exciting internship between second and third year working for Hannah Martin (London) and various other companies. Now I want to successfully complete my degree and move forward with designing collections within a company, perhaps one with connections on the continent, hence the French lessons.

Name one jewellery toolbox essential that you can’t live without.

My paints and paint brushes.

SARAH YSABEL DYNE NARICI

 

Tell us a bit about yourself.

I am a half Italian, half British twenty-two year old female. I grew up in Milan until I was nine years old… I have been studying jewellery design at CSM for three years and am ready for the next chapter of my life to commence!

What was the inspiration for this piece?

The collection is designed for a future society, living outside of planet Earth’s parameters in the year 2050. The pearls in these pieces have been encapsulated into individual acrylic blocks in a nostalgic act of celebration of the natural wonders of the Earth.

What’s next for you?

After I graduate I plan on moving to Paris to expand my knowledge of design in a fine jewellery house.

What do you like most about pearls?

The stunning and subtle array of colours that you can see on closer inspection.

What has been your best experience or moment at CSM?

Difficult to answer there have been many! Finding a path that I enjoy so much is probably the best feeling and experience I have had.

Who is your favourite designer or artist and why?

This is difficult to answer as I have many, however one of my favourites is the Belgian multidisciplinary artist, Jan Fabre. I think he is one of the most exciting contemporary artists and his work both in theatre and sculptures always prompts question and thought.

If you were a gemstone, what would you be?

An opal.

Name one jewellery toolbox essential that you can’t live without.

My file.

What’s your motto?

"Audentior ito"

XUE DONG

 

Tell us a bit about yourself.

I think jewelry is like small sculptures. I am interested in making jewelry, which is delicate with less formally structured shapes.

What was the inspiration for this piece?

My inspiration comes from the cloud. I love the cloud’s irregular changing shape and changing colors in different weather conditions.

Who is your favourite designer or artist and why?

I was influenced by Tara Donovan’s sculpture, I really like the way and feeling she created the fabulous structure.

What’s your motto?

"Be structural, romantic, fluency"

In addition to the prize-winning work by Bella Mung (pictured above), there were many other surprising, innovative and creative uses of pearls in the CSM jewellery 2013 degree show this year.

Here we feature the first in a two part series of short interviews with designers from the CSM Jewellery 2013 show, including in this article - Beatrice Bongiasca, Claudia Rice and Emily Wright.

Read about some of the other designers in Part II of our interviews here.

BEATRICE BONGIASCA

 

Tell us a bit about yourself.

My name is Beatrice and I am from Milan, but I have been studying BA Jewellery Design at Central Saint Martins in London for the last four years. I am very lucky to have found my passion so early in life because it truly is what I want to do in my life.

What was the inspiration for this piece?

My final collection ‘The Western Orient’, which was inspired by the increasing importance of the Asian market in today’s society, is a merge between the Orient’s heritage and the West’s strong consumer capitalist culture. The motifs embedded within the jewellery hold symbiotic connotations which function as a social critique of the globalisation in Eastern Asia.

This piece in particular is based more on the Western aspect as it focuses on the phenomenon of conspicuous consumption by means of stating the ‘price’ on the pearls.

What do you like most about pearls?

I like how timeless and elegant pearls are and the contrast that they create in my work, which uses very contemporary imagery. The pearls in my collection make my jewellery look more refined as they give it a lustrous classic undertone.

What’s your motto?

"Dream big"

CLAUDIA RICE

 

Tell us a bit about yourself.

My name is Claudia Rice and I have come into the craft of jewellery making and designing from having my father (and his father) in the jewellery business all his life as my influence. Starting as a watchmakers apprentice at 15, he was a traveling salesman for Mikimoto and Rosita Pearls during the 70s, setting up workshop in Hatton Garden to having his own shop in Marylebone high street, where I spent a lot of my time.

These surroundings have fed my desire to be part of that and continue my family trade.

What was the inspiration for this piece?

My inspiration stemmed from research into my dissertation on the subject of The History of Hatton Garden and my family connection with it. Becoming intrigued by maps of old London, discovering locations of ‘hidden treasures’, using an A-Z from 1969 and making a link with the modern technology of Google Maps.

What has been your best experience or moment at CSM?

Winning a design award from the Worshipful Company of Tin Plate workers.

What’s your motto?

“What goes around…”

EMILY WRIGHT

 

Tell us a bit about yourself.

I am a quietly confident person, I enjoy being creative and I don’t work well under pressure!

What was the inspiration for this piece?

The theme for my collection is reconnecting with those we have lost, through every day gestures, such as the simplicity of placing a necklace on a loved one.

What’s next for you?

Graduating (hopefully) and going into the world of work.

What do you like most about pearls?

I love the simplicity of pearls, they are glamorous in a beautiful yet understated way.

What has been your best experience or moment at CSM?

I have enjoyed the opportunities CSM has provided, and the opportunities we have had that we wouldn’t have gotten anywhere else.

Who is your favourite designer or artist and why?

I love the sculptures of Barbara Hepworth, I love the simplistic designs and the perfection in the lines.

What’s your motto?

"The best things in life aren’t things."

Congratulations to Bella Mung, the winner of the Winterson Prize 2013 for the Best Use of Pearls.

Announced yesterday evening at Central Saint Martins, London, Bella was awarded the prize for her contemporary and often humorous exploration of the use of pearls in everyday fashion.

There were many pieces of a high standard in the CSM BA Jewellery Design Class 2013, including Claudia Rice's collection of historically inspired jewellery and Simeï Iréne Snyman's ambiguous fantasy garden of ceramic food.

The judges, which included CSM course leader Caroline Broadhead and designer Alice Cicolini, however, loved the detailed development of Bella's concepts throughout the last year.

Initially exploring the idea of the hidden shape and form of a necklace beneath a garment, inspired by her mother's jewellery, Bella playfully extended the concept to using pearls in different pieces of attire.

These often amusing and sometimes peculiar pieces of fashion included a pearl necklace that transformed into a tie, a hoody with its suggestion of pearls and a pair of gentlemen's pearl-studded brogues.

The stand-out piece was this pearl necklace (above) that was transfixed like the wearer's hair blowing in the wind. The considered shape and graduation of the necklace was perfect.

We asked Bella about her inspiration and plans for the future:

Tell us about yourself.

I studied the foundation of art and design in Los Angeles and found out I am very interested in the jewellery field.

What was the inspiration for this piece?

I love the way my mother wears her mother's silver chain half hidden by her clothes and half shown. I copy the way she does this by combining a pearl necklace with everyday wear.

What's next for you?

I will be doing an internship in BLESS after I graduate and applying for an MA degree at the Royal College of Art in 2014.

Name one jewellery toolbox essential that you can’t live without.

My Pearl knotter.

Our buying team returned this week from Hong Kong with a new selection of fine pearls for our jewellery collections.

Hong Kong is the centre of the pearl business today, with dealers and pearl farmers from around the world sorting and selecting through the best (and the worst) of the new season's harvest of cultured pearls.

The size of this jewellery show also makes it one of the biggest in the world, with over 42,000 buyers from 140 different countries. Finished jewellery, brands and designers exhibit alongside the glittering distraction of rows upon rows of diamonds, precious gemstones and pearls.

With three main jewellery fairs in Hong Kong a year, the March and June exhibitions are the best time to view and select from the new harvest. This is because most pearls are harvested when the water is cool. Colder temperatures are believed to improve the quality of the lustre of the pearl.

Most sellers in the main part of the jewellery fair are wholesalers, but a number of the big pearl farmers and trade groups from the pearl producing regions of Tahiti, Australia and Indonesia also hold auctions by invitation to try and obtain the best prices for their new harvest.

In high demand this year were golden pearls from Myanmar, famed for their deep rich, burnt orangey golden colour. Prices for some pearls were reported to be reaching 5-8 times the seller's asking prices.

This is where it can take years of experience to be able to select a lot of fine pearls from the many others, recognising the excellent quality of nacre that gives the exceptional Akoya pearls above their mirror like shine, or the telltale signs of when a pearl's lustre is fading.

A typical pearl auction is held in a large quiet room away from the bustle of the main jewellery fair. Perhaps up to 300 or 400 different lots of loose pearls are arranged in bowls along long tables. Each lot will be comprised of between a few hundred to 5,000 individual pearls, sorted by shape, colour and quality, but usually mixed by size.

Buyers select a bowl that they are interested in, ask for it to be weighed and then search for a clear table with good, natural daylight to look at the pearls in each lot.

Sorting through such a large group of pearls such as the one above can be a daunting and rewarding challenge. It is important to think about the eventual use of the pearls in jewellery, their various grading qualities in terms of lustre, shape, colour and surface. Higher quality pearls will be used for earrings and pendants, whilst slightly less perfect pearls tend to be made into necklaces.

If everything looks good, the final stage of the auction is to make a sealed bid. A price in Japanese yen, dollars or euros (depending on the particular auction) is written on a small ticket and dropped into a ballot-like box.

A short wait follows, until the auction closes, before it is possible to see if your bid is ultimately successful.

Amongst our immediate favourites from this trip's selection were the beautiful dark Tahitian pearls picture above, with their gorgeous natural colours of peacock purple, cherry, aubergine, blue and green.

Over the next few months, we will be introducing these gems to Winterson.

We are thrilled to be announcing a new design collaboration with Alice Cicolini, a London-based jewellery designer, curator and author.

We have been working with Alice throughout this year to develop our new collection of pearl rings, which has just launched at Winterson. The collection features classic Akoya, South Sea and Tahitian pearl rings with diamonds and colourful gemstones, set in 18 carat gold.

Alice is best known for her beautiful and unique jewellery, which is inspired by the enamel traditions of Persia and the patterns and traditions of the Silk Route. Her pieces are handmade in India to the highest quality of craftsmanship, using an artisanal technique of placing enamel onto metal called meenakari.

This traditional enamelling style originated in the courts of Persia and was established in the early 1600s in Jaipur, Rajasthan. Colourful layers of enamel are laid into grooves in the metal and fired individually to build up a complex and intricate pattern that can turn a piece of jewellery into a work of art. Often this detail might only be visible to the wearer.

Alice's Silk Route, Jodhpur and Silver Tile jewellery collections combine vivid reds, yellows, pinks, blues and greens and are quite wonderful to see. The new hoop earrings (pictured above) from a new collection called Orbital feature enamelled 22ct gold and shimmering white opals.

A background as a former Director Arts & Culture for the British Council in India, a graduate of Central Saint Martins in London and an author on contemporary British dandyism, give some clues to Alice's love for fashion and creative design. She has exhibited at Somerset House and Sotheby's in London, as well as curating a number of international exhibitions on design.

Enamelling was also a favourite technique of the Art Nouveau jewellers such as Lalique and Fabergé around 1900. Around this same time seed pearls were very popular, being used to decorate brooches, bows and earrings.

What might be possible today?

Inspired by the tradition and combination of these classic materials, the new Alice Cicolini collection for Winterson will be launched in Autumn 2013.

A new exhibition of portraits of the Queen at the National Portrait Gallery, London is a charming retrospective look at the Queen's public life over the last 60 years. Opened to celebrate the Diamond Jubilee, this collection of formal, press photographs and contemporary portraits explores the Queen's relationship with her image and the media.

The exhibition has been organised chronologically by the NPG, with one portrait representing each year of the Queen's reign. Formal portraits by artists including Dorothy Wilding, Lucian Freud and Annie Leibovitz are arranged next to more private observations of this very public figure. The visitor is encouraged to consider how these images have evolved.

Although pearls are a constant throughout the exhibition, there are a number of surprises. Cecil Beaton's iconic portrait of the Queen on her Coronation day in 1953 is still magnificent, but Pietro Annigoni's dramatic image of a monarch in her ceremonial robes (seen here for the first time in over 25 years) is oddly of another time.

Best of all is their contrast with some of the snapped photographs. Patrick Lichfield's joyful picture of the Queen aboard the Royal Yacht, Eve Arnold's glimpse of the Queen sheltering under an umbrella and the anguish caught by Dylan Martinez following the fire at Windsor Castle are as striking as the formal poses.

In comparison, moving through the gallery rooms, more contemporary portraits by Gerhard Richter, Andy Warhol and Gilbert and George mainly offer a changing interpretation of this iconic image.

One of the highlights undoubtedly is Chris Levine's lightbox entitled 'Lightness of Being', catching the Queen in a meditative moment between exposures. It is a powerful and thoughtful piece.

The Queen: Art & Image exhibition is open at the National Portrait Gallery until 21st October 2012 and is highly recommended if you are visiting central London this summer.

The steady rise in the price of gold over the last five years shows an enduring fascination with this precious metal. Tutankhamun's mask, King Midas, our coinage systems, Eldorado, the Californian gold rush and even James Bond's arch rival Goldfinger are some of the icons of wealth and greed that this noble metal has helped create throughout history. What is the lasting allure of gold and its use in gold jewellery today?

Gold is a metal with remarkable properties for use in jewellery. It is a dense and durable metal being resistant to corrosion and oxidation, yet can be soft and malleable for the making of jewellery. Gold also conducts heat well and rapidly warms to our body temperature. In its purest form, gold has a bright mesmerizing yellow colour that has a sensual beauty next to the skin.

The purity of gold is defined in units of carats, which is believed to be derived from a Roman coin called a solidus that was introduced by the Emperor Diocletian around 300AD. Each coin struck had around 24 carats of gold and this sub-division continues today.

24 carat gold is the purest form of gold, with 999 parts per thousand of gold, and is generally regarded as being too soft for jewellery. To increase the metal's hardness, gold is combined with other metals to form an alloy. 18 carat gold, for example, is composed of 18 parts of pure gold and 6 parts of another metal. 14 carat and 9 carat gold have decreasing parts of pure gold and therefore are less valuable.

The alloying process also allows a jeweller to introduce other metals to influence the final colour of the alloy. The colour of pure gold is yellow, but with the addition of a metal such as palladium, the alloy will turn a silvery white that is sold with the finesse of 18 carat white gold. Alloys made with nickel and gold have been phased out in Europe since 2000 to help prevent the incidence of allergies. Other colour golds such as rose gold can be achieved with a gold alloy containing copper.

Gold is very resistant to wear and it will retain its shape and colour for generations. Most white gold jewellery sold today is also plated with rhodium, a platinum-like metal that gives white gold an additional gleam. This will start to wear within 2 to 3 years, but can be easily replaced at most jewellers.

To care for your gold jewellery, clean the gold with a soft cleaning cloth with a good quality cleaning liquid. Polish the metal with gentle, circular movements and dry off any excess liquid. Be careful however not to damage any more sensitive gems such as pearls and, if in doubt, simply clean and polish your gold jewellery with water.

As gold prices have increased, more jewellery with a lower gold finesse or silver has become popular. At Winterson, we favour 18 carat gold for its lasting value, quality and durability and all our gold jewellery is hallmarked at the London Assay office to verify its gold content. We design with either yellow or white gold to match with our Freshwater, Akoya and South Sea pearls, whilst Tahitian pearls with their dark colours have a more contemporary partnership with 18 carat white gold.

Europe's luxury jewellers unveiled their latest collections last week at Baselworld 2012, the biggest watch and jewellery event in the world.

Baselworld started as a watch fair and, now in its 40th year, is the premier luxury show for European retailers and brands alike. Over 100,000 exhibitors, visitors and press attended this year to announce new products and discover new trends. With nine Maserati sports cars parked enviably last week in a row outside the luxury watch Hall, our expectations were set high.

For any visitor to Baselworld, the show can remain a daunting one. Cavernous halls are filled with temporary structures of glass and marble that in some instances reach three stories high. Luxury watch brands such as Patek Phillipe, Rolex, Breguet and Chopard showcase their newest timepieces alongside jewellery creations from Fabergé, De Grisogono, and Mikimoto. The atmosphere is busy, but serious and hushed too. The success of the event here sets the tone for many in the watch and jewellery calendar.

If you are interested in the latest developments in jewellery then the prestige jewellers of Hall 2 or the specialist gemstone and pearl merchants of Hall 3 should be your first stop. The UK representation was low-key, with the stand-out for us being the characteristically edgy and spectacular designs of Stephen Webster.

Amongst the displays of the specialist pearl dealers, there were the first signs of the new larger nucleated Freshwater Edison pearls that are starting to emerge from China. This new type of pearl represents a real advancement in culturing technology, with Freshwater pearls starting to reach a size of as much as 15mm in diameter. There were a number of vivid pink strands on display, an amazing natural colour that is oddly striking when first seen. We will cover this type of pearl later in our Journal, but it will be very interesting to see how they are received over the coming year, particularly as their quality improves further.

Baselworld is scheduled slightly later next year from April 25 to May 2, 2013, due to the exhibition area being expanded, and is open to luxury-loving members of the public as well as retailers.

Fashion lovers at London Fashion Week 2012 were treated this week to the Rock Vault, a celebration of some of the most inventive and eclectic jewellery design that Britain has to offer.

LFW is the vibrant setting for the launch of the new Autumn/Winter 2012 fashion collections. Somerset House was buzzing with around 5,000 visitors attending 100 shows from established and emerging designers. Alongside London debuts by Stella McCartney and McQ by Alexander McQueen, with an extravagant catwalk floor carpeted with fallen leaves, were bold colours and patterns, classic elegance and warm seasonal colours.

Rock Vault is a new initiative that has been set up to help promote the best of Britain’s fine jewellery design. Ten jewellers, selected by the British Fashion Council, curator Stephen Webster and the International Palladium Board, were offered an enviable chance to showcase their A/W 2012 jewellery collections.

The selected designers were Alexandra Jefford, Fernando Jorge, Hannah Martin, Hillier, Husam El Odeh, Jo Hayes Ward, Jordan Askill, Melanie Georgacopoulos, Sophie Bille Brahe and Tomasz Donocik. Also featured in the exhibition tent that overlooked the Thames were five bold jewellery design concepts cast in the precious metal Palladium by students from Central Saint Martins, London.

As the main events of LFW were winding down, we visited the Vault to discover its installations. It was inspiring to see the new developments in Fernando Jorge’s Fluid Diamonds collection and we love these supple pieces shown in combination with some unusual gemstones such as the apple-green Brazilian Chrysoprase.

There were also some striking jewellery designs with pearls by Melanie Georgacopoulos, playfully enclosing pearls in 18ct gold diamond and emerald cages, and Alexandra Jefford, whose modern pieces are inspired by architecture, nature and some fabulously metallic freshwater pearls.

A brilliant setting to showcase the jewellery talent in London, the Vault undoubtedly rocked this year.