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The regular Friday Late event at the V&A this week features The Rules of Adornment, an evening of workshops, films and performances exploring the question of why we choose to wear what we do.

Inspired by the V&A and Qatar Museums Authority's current Pearls exhibition, this popular regular event promises to mix guest DJs with fashion and graphic design, as well as presentations and installations on music, tattoos and jewellery.

Amongst the events exploring the links between adornment, status and personal expression are a number that are related to pearls. Here is our selection:

18.30-21.30, a drawing-based workshop by artist Ben Barbour on the history of the pearl trade routes;

19.00-20.00, Pearl Editions by students at Central Saint Martins. As a follow-up to their Pearl Variations project, BA Jewellery students from CSM have created a series of limited edition collections for the evening that pushes the possibilities of pearls as adornment;

20.00, a conversation by Pearls curator Beatriz Chadour-Sampson and Qatar National Museum Heritage expert Dr Najla Ismail into the myths, symbolism and fashion of pearls.

There are many other events during the evening in the main hall and throughout the museum itself. Or if you would like to acquire a hand-drawn tattoo, or even to learn how King George V acquired his, then this is the event for you.

The Museum is open late to the public on Friday 29th November until 22.00. All Friday Late events are free, although some places may be ticketed on a first come first served basis.

Earlier this year, we were privileged to take part in Pearl Variations, a collaborative project between the first year BA Jewellery students at Central Saint Martins (CSM) and the Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

To coincide with the opening of the V&A and the Qatar Museums Authority Exhibition on Pearls, the students were invited to explore the history of this gem and the possibilities that new ideas and creativity might bring to pearl jewellery design.

Each student was encouraged to produce a collection or theme of work, with the opportunity for three pieces to be selected for sale in the V&A Shop -  an exciting prospect for any aspiring jewellery designer!

Following an introduction to the exhibition by one of its curators Beatriz Chadour-Sampson, the students embarked on developing their ideas.

Alongside a senior buyer from the V&A, we attended two reviews in March and June to give some specialist pearl feedback on the work-in-progress.

Looking back at the notes from those sessions, it is fantastic to see how the students' work progressed throughout the project.

Lili Murphy Johnson's Brace-let (pictured above) was inspired by the phrase 'pearly white teeth'. The original design using orthodontic steel braces and pearls to give the impression of a dental brace of real teeth was carried through brilliantly.

There were many other stand-out ideas in the group. Harriet Williams' vibrantly painted pearls (also above) played with notions of value and colour, whilst Danya Xie's ebony pearl ring was one of our favourites. An elegant contrast of materials, colour and texture created a ring that would be endlessly turned on the wearer's finger.

During the period of the exhibition until 19 January 2014, each of the pieces above are on sale in person and online at the V&A Shop.

Our thanks go to the students, Giles Last at CSM and the V&A for the realisation of this unique project.

Laura Whitmore, brand ambassador at Pond's Institute and immaculate host of ITV2's 'I'm A Celebrity, Get Me Out of Here! Now!', last week hosted an exclusive event for 100 press and VIPs at the Victoria & Albert Museum's Pearls Exhibition.

We were delighted to be asked to help celebrate the event with Laura wearing a selection from our finest Akoya pearl range of jewellery.

The Akoya pearl is a traditional type of saltwater pearl, that is cultured in oysters in coastal waters near Japan, China and Vietnam. The Akoya is particularly well-known for its sharp lustre, perfect round shape and tinted pink overtone.

The guests were treated to an interview by Laura Whitmore about Pond's and pearls with Caroline Neville, followed by a private tour of the Pearl Exhibition to see the pieces on display there and learn about the iconic status that this amazing gem has held throughout history.

The pearl jewellery on show included Marilyn Monroe's necklace of Akoya pearls, which was famously bought for her in Japan by her husband Joe DiMaggio in 1954, and a pair of Bulgari pearl drop pendant earrings worn by Elizabeth Taylor.

An explanation of how pearls are cultured today introduced a number of showcase pieces of Akoya pearl jewellery by Mikimoto, including a flamboyant scarf of over 5000 pearls that was just pure showbiz.

As well as the elegant Akoya Pearl Bracelet, pictured below, Laura also wore our Amber Eclipse Pearl Ring which is an open ring design of 18 carat yellow gold, that has been finished with a square-cut orange sapphire gemstone set facing a white Akoya pearl.

Laura also wore our new Beau Seed Pearl and Diamond Ring with Yellow Gold, designed by Alice Cicolini. With seed pearls, a diamond knot and a flamboyant bow, this eye-catching ring will be coming soon to Winterson with the launch of Alice's Beau Collection.

Thank you to Laura Whitmore and Pond's Institute for hosting the event.

With September quickly fading into the Autumn, we look back to some of the SS14 jewellery and pearls that excited our attention this season at London Fashion Week.

Rock Vault, curated by jeweller Stephen Webster, is a showcase of ten of the most talented designers working in the UK. The initiative is into its fourth season and a perfect opportunity for press and buyers alike to see the group's new collections.

ALICE CICOLINI

Alice Cicolini's colourful new Kimono Collection, explores traditional patterns within circles and using her trademark enamelling techniques. The Kimono pieces mix vitreous enamel with vintage hand cut diamonds, polished opals and some truly fabulous pearls!

Our forthcoming Beau collection with Alice Cicolini, was also on show for the first time. We are very excited to be launching it at Winterson soon.

MELANIE GEORGACOPOULOS

Contemporary designer Melanie Georgacopoulos is admired for challenging traditional notions of what pearls mean in today's world.

Her previous work has included splitting cultured pearls in half to reveal the concentric layers of nacre inside and drilling pearls from the inside out to leave a skeletal shell of its surface.

Previewing her new SS14 for M/G Tasaki, a collaboration with the Japanese fine jeweller, Melanie's collection featured white Freshwater pearls and stretched 18 carat gold chain. We loved the inventiveness of this ring.

Also on show was Melanie's new fine jewellery line of necklaces, pendants and earrings, exploring the relationship between pearls and diamonds that have been set in cages of 18 carat gold.

ORNELLA IANNUZZI

A welcome addition to the Rock Vault this September was Ornella Iannuzzi's coral fantasy pieces, which set a variety of colourful Freshwater and Tahitian pearls in gold and silver forms that have been inspired by nature.

Ornella Iannuzzi is best known for her sculptural, organic jewellery that is created by hand in her London studio, such as the fabulous Abyss ring above.

Launching at LFW for SS14 was Les Corallines, a new everyday wear range that continued the volcanic, underwater theme with silver and gold vermeil pieces and these baroque saltwater Tahitian pearls.

The world of pearls can hold many surprises, but it is not everyday that you have an opportunity to view a historic treasure secured safely beneath the streets of London.

The experimental pearls of famed Swedish botanist Carl Linnaeus are about to join the forthcoming Pearls Exhibition at the V&A and so we jumped at the chance to see these early successful attempts to culture a spherical pearl in close up.

CARL LINNAEUS

Carl Linnaeus (1707-1778) is best known for his method of classifying organisms that uses two latin names to represent the genus and the species, for example 'Homo Sapiens'. This taxonomy is conventionally used today to describe and classify the hierarchical relationships of animals, plants and  insects to each other.

Linnaeus' collections of specimen organisms, including dried flowers, insects, fish and molluscs are unique and are still a primary reference point for scientists to determine if they have found a new species.

Following his death, the Linnean collections were purchased by Sir James Edward Smith in 1784 and transported to London, where they remain today.

THE LINNEAN SOCIETY

In 1788, Smith also founded The Linnean Society to provide a forum to discuss and promote the study of natural history.

The Linnean Society is the world's oldest active biological society. It was at a meeting of the Society in 1858 that papers by Charles Darwin were presented outlining the theory of natural selection and evolution.

The collections were obtained by the Society in 1829 and are today securely held in a vault below the courtyard of Burlington House, Piccadilly in central London. Leather bound books, old parchment folders and specimen trays line the carefully curated shelves and drawers.

Also in the strongroom was a very rare (and valuable) signed first edition of Charles Darwin's 'Origin of the Species' - a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to see.

LINNAEA BOREALIS

Carefully wrapped in parchment was this original specimen of Linnaea Borealis, a wildflower of northern and alpine origin that has a distinctive double twin flower shape. The flower is named after Linnaeus as it was a favourite of his whilst travelling in Lapland.

As well as having a beautiful white pink flower, Carl Linnaeus fell in love with the wildflower for the way that it grew persistently in the undergrowth and its ephemeral, short-lived life. These were two symbols that he felt were important in his own life and portraits of Linnaeus, including the one above, and in the Society all feature the Linnaea Borealis.

This little flower has a special meaning for Winterson as it was an inspiration for our own flower motif, also honouring its link with Linnaeus and his early achievements in culturing pearls.

LINNAEUS AND PEARLS

Linnaeus declared in 1761 that 'he had heard of people who made gold, but had never heard of any who could make pearls'. Describing the lengthy and time-consuming efforts to find natural pearls that he had seen in Purkijaur, Lapland, Linnaeus believed that a technique for culturing pearls existed that would be more effective and profitable for Sweden.

Linnaeus started to experiment with 'Unio Pictorum', a species of freshwater mussel called the Painter's mussel. This mussel was named as traditionally its shells were used by painters as convenient receptacles for mixing paint.

His technique was a variation of an old Chinese method for producing blister pearls. Drilling a hole in the mussel's shell, Linnaeus inserted a small granule of limestone between the mantle and the shell to help produce a free spherical pearl inside the mussel.

The mussels were returned to the riverbed for six years to produce what is regarded as the world's first spherical cultured pearls. They are indeed historic and fascinating to view.

Linnaeus' method is also based on an old misunderstanding that pearls are created with a grain of sand. We know now that a response to illness or a parasite is the more likely explanation for the growth of natural pearls in an oyster or mussel.

These experimental pearls were not ultimately the source of riches that Linnaeus had hoped for, but he was enobled by the King of Sweden for his efforts taking the title von Linné. The pearls, a patent and Linnaeus' secret were sold to a Swedish merchant named Peter Bagge, but nothing came out of this venture.

Another Londoner Sir John Hunter is recorded as having attempted to culture freshwater pearls in his ponds at Earl's Court Manor House using a similar method to Linnaeus, but it was left to a different Englishman William Saville-Kent to make the next break-through in pearl culturing.

SEE THE LINNAEUS PEARLS AT THE V&A

We would to like thank Elaine Charwat, Deputy Librarian of the Linnean Society for her fabulous help in showing us Carl Linnaeus' pearls.

The pearls themselves are on display soon at Pearls, the V&A's new exhibition. Not to be missed...

With much excitement and anticipation, the Pearls exhibition at the V&A Museum opens later this month in London.

PEARLS EXHIBITION AT THE V&A

Promising to be one of the biggest Autumn shows, the exhibition will show off the luxurious qualities of some of the world's most unusual and valuable pearls and jewellery, as well as exploring the unique heritage and impact on popular culture of this beautiful gem.

We are very fortunate to be able to ask Beatriz Chadour-Sampson and Hubert Bari, the curators of the Pearls exhibition, about the show and what a visitor can look forward to. We would like to thank them, the V&A and the Qatar Museums Authority for their support with this article.

Here are Beatriz and Hubert's thoughts on 'Pearls'.

How special has this exhibition been for you and to curate? What did you hope that its visitors may learn about pearls?

From all gems, it is the most unusual as the natural pearl is produced by living animals. Even cultured pearls after human intervention are created by nature. Visitors will be amazed to learn that, in principle, any mollusc can produce a pearl from the giant clam to the land snail, and they will be dazzled by the variety of shapes and colours of pearls.

The history of the trade of pearls between continents is fascinating, and how East and West share the same passion for pearls.

Pearls have a unique symbolic significance and mystique. Can the pearl claim to be the world's favourite gem?

Incredibly, pearls have created a global fascination over millennia, like no other gem. There is something magical about pearls, their beauty lies in their perfection of form and most of all lustre. They are born in the form that nature made them with a natural sheen.

Pearls have always been a symbol of femininity. Maybe this is the reason why the fashion for pearls continues today.

The exhibition showcases many famous examples of pearl jewellery, many styles of which are still being referenced today in popular culture. Have we already seen a 'golden age' of pearl jewellery design or is the pearl a gem that will be constantly reinvented?

Yes, as no other gem has been worn as consistently, as pearls. Pearls are neutral and versatile, appropriate for any occasion. In previous years jewellers have shown a persistent, if not renewed interest in creating new designs with pearls.

What is the most striking or surprising aspect for you about the history of the pearl?

The fascination for pearls and wish to wear these beauties of nature transcends cultures and borders. The similarities in the myths and legends surrounding the pearl in East and West are astonishing. Pearls mark authority and power, symbolize prosperity and on a more personal note they are associated with joy at weddings or tears as a sign of mourning.

Natural pearls have undergone a renaissance in the last decade, achieving spectacular prices at auction, and cultured pearls are being produced in better, more diverse and beautiful qualities. What does the future hold for this gem?

The future of the pearl depends on so many factors, not least the condition of our seas. Natural pearls are simply too rare and expensive, only affordable to the very few. Today China produces such quantities of cultured pearls of inferior quality, that they are endangering the pearl market. Whilst they give great care when creating one pearl from an oyster, the Chinese produce 50 in one mussel, at low cost in rice fields or near housing estates. In South East Asia the farms which produce the beautiful South Sea pearls are experiencing not only financial difficulties but the effects of pollution and for these reasons their future remains uncertain.

The desire for pearls has been so insatiable that imitation pearls have existed over centuries and their advocate in the 1930s Coco Chanel was instrumental in reviving the fashion for pearls and revived the industry at a time when this was unthinkable. No one can tell what the future will hold for this beautiful gem, but the fashion for pearls endures.

The 'Pearls, V&A and Qatar Museums Authority Exhibition', runs from 21 September 2013 to 19 January 2014 as part of the Qatar UK 2013 Year of Culture.

To learn more about the exhibition, visit the V&A website here.

With summer drawing to a close, we look ahead on the catwalk  to some of the key jewellery trends for Autumn Winter 2013.

Two old favourites - rock and roll chains and statement rings - rocked the catwalks with a thrilling range of Ready to Wear fashions that referenced punks and queens alike.

Versace led the rebels with its ‘Vunk’ catwalk show of glamour punk. The model Kate Moss starred as the face of the campaign, surrounded by glossy black PVC, studs and metal spikes.

Amongst the royals, Queen Elizabeth I was honoured with a theatrical and contemporary revival of her wardrobe by Alexander McQueen. Corsets, hoop skirts, cages, embroidery, feathers and pearls created a stunningly beautiful journey into the opulence and design of the 19th century.

ROCK AND ROLL CHAINS

Chanel marked its Ready to Wear show at Paris Fashion Week with the remake of a signature accessory – the link chain. Reminiscent of the styling of the traditional strap of a Chanel bag, the white metal links were connected into oversized chains, layered or woven with velvet and other materials.

In a colour palette of black, grey or white, nearly every Chanel model was accessorised with a chain in the form of a necklace or choker, a bracelet, or wearing black leather boots enlaced with chain.

Lanvin also indulges in stacked chains in this season’s collection, made of white and yellow metal. The bold large links were connected in an abundance of chains, layered with variable lengths and sizes and completed with a chunky and youthful pendant expressing words such as Cool, Love and Happy.

STATEMENT RINGS

For Autumn Winter 2013, fashion house Christian Dior collaborated with The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts to imprint an artistic influence throughout its catwalk show. The jewellery was feminine and graphic, with single earrings and layered statement rings.

One of Dior’s most classic looks is inspired by the iridescent pearl. In this new collection, oversized faux pearls rings were set in rings protruding with colourful geometric shapes. As an assemblage, they emulated a contemporary piece of art, perhaps inspired by the work of surrealist artists such as Joan Miró.

The rings at Chloé were also not for the fearful. Angular or bluntly round, metallic or organic, Chloe’s expressive brass rings accessorised a utilitarian, almost military, collection.

JEWELLERY TRENDS FOR AUTUMN WINTER 2013

This season has moved on from last season’s long rope necklaces and hoop earrings and is proudly bold and rock and roll.

We are very excited to have recently launched a new range of leverback earrings at Winterson. This interchangeable earring system is an elegant and beautiful way to wear pearls.

The three main classic earring designs include the stud, the hoop and the drop earring. The leverback earring is a type of hoop design, consisting  of a small hoop that is worn through a pierced earlobe.

Unlike the main hoop design, the leverback earring also has the extra safety benefit of a closure system, whereby the back of hoop has a hinged lever that can be easily clicked open and closed.

With this safety mechanism, leverback earrings tend to be popular with luxurious designs that feature precious stones, particularly with diamonds. The gemstones might be set on the front of the earring in sparkling micro-pave or with claws for larger stones.

Although these earrings can be worn on their own, leverback earrings are most popularly worn with a precious stone or pearl that dangles from the hoop below the earlobe. The combination creates an elegant drop earring that makes these earrings an ideal choice for chic evening wear.

Our leverback system also offers the possibility of choosing the style of gemstone or pearl to wear with each earring. This interchangeable design is very attractive as it gives the wearer a degree of flexibility in matching the same earring to a new outfit.

A pair of pearls fitted with small loops, shown above, are slipped simply on and off the open earring.

At Winterson our new collection of leverback pearl earrings are finished with diamonds in a choice of 18 carat white, yellow or rose gold. The prettiest of Akoya pearls, drop shaped Freshwater pearls, exotic peacock Tahitian pearls and golden South Sea pearls complete the final look.

If you would like purchase an additional pair of pearls with your earrings, then please select these from our Leverback Collection page or at checkout.

Graduation day is a day for throwing your hat in the air!  Why not also celebrate academic achievement with our selection of graduation presents.

After years of hard work studying, graduation can be a rite of passage for many, marking a transition from studenthood to professional life.

For the ceremony on graduation day, tradition holds that graduands will wear a formal gown with a hood and sometime a cap. Graduands are students that are about to graduate or receive a degree.

This tradition of wearing a gown is thought to date back to medieval times. Usually graduands will choose to wear simple dark clothes beneath their gowns so as not to distract from the academic formalities.

Women are also allowed to wear discreet jewellery and many choose to wear pearls which, amongst gemstones, are a classic and perfect graduation present.

At Winterson we can recommend three popular pieces of pearl jewellery that will complement the style of the traditional graduation gown.

 

PEARL AND DIAMOND PENDANT SET

This pretty and feminine set is made of a white freshwater pearl pendant in the shape of a drop sitting elegantly below a sparkling diamond. It is matched with a pair of freshwater white pearl stud earrings.

WHITE GOLD DIAMOND LEVERBACK AND AKOYA PEARL EARRINGS

A pair of pearl and diamond earrings are true jewellery box staples that will be treasured for years to come. This model in 18 carat white gold will add a touch of glamour to the academic formalities and is available with either Freshwater pearls or Japanese Akoya pearls.

AKOYA PEARL NECKLACE

For a special treat, a traditional white Japanese Akoya pearl necklace would be a delightful present to mark any graduation day.

We offer a number of different styles of necklace, strung with 6-6.5mm, 7-7.5mm and 8-8.5mm pearls or for added sparkle with a diamond clasp to catch the eye.

Whichever style of pearl jewellery you choose, a young lady will enjoy wearing pearl jewellery on her graduation. For many following years, she will also be reminded of this unique day spent with friends and family.

The second in a two part series of short interviews with designers from the CSM Jewellery 2013 show features Natha Khunprasert, Ruth Mackin, Sarah Ysabel Dyne Narici and Xue Dong.

Read about some of the other designers in Part I of our interviews here.

NATHA KHUNPRASERT

 

Tell us a bit about yourself.

I grew up wanting to be a fashion designer, and then find my interest in product design to then ultimately realise my true passion lies within jewellery designing and making. I enjoy injecting kitsch element into my work.

What was the inspiration for this piece?

The initial inspiration of my collection projected from my personal interest in the beauty and function of nails, as personal expression of style and extension of our bodies. The project developed into not only the jewellery for nails but instead, jewellery about ‘Fingertips’, where they play significant roles in our lives.

Who is your favourite designer or artist and why?

Melanie Georgacopoulos: I truly admire her ability to give an edge and a more youthful & playful aesthetic to the timeless value of pearls, as well as her talent in creating both equally exciting smaller pieces and big show pieces.

What’s your motto?

“Live life to the fullest”

RUTH MACKIN

 

Tell us a bit about yourself.

My name is Ruth Mackin and I was born in Vanuatu in the South Pacific. My family and I later moved to the Cayman Islands returning to Britain for my secondary education. Arts Foundation was great fun at Chesterfield College, then on to CSM. I love creating miniature detail in my creative work and hope this shows through in my design process.

What was the inspiration for this piece?

Fond memories of tropical seas and the brilliant colours of the ocean. Even now watching the ebb and flow of the tides as they sweep through rock pools. Feeding sea anemones tiny scraps of fish.

What’s next for you?

I spent a very varied and exciting internship between second and third year working for Hannah Martin (London) and various other companies. Now I want to successfully complete my degree and move forward with designing collections within a company, perhaps one with connections on the continent, hence the French lessons.

Name one jewellery toolbox essential that you can’t live without.

My paints and paint brushes.

SARAH YSABEL DYNE NARICI

 

Tell us a bit about yourself.

I am a half Italian, half British twenty-two year old female. I grew up in Milan until I was nine years old… I have been studying jewellery design at CSM for three years and am ready for the next chapter of my life to commence!

What was the inspiration for this piece?

The collection is designed for a future society, living outside of planet Earth’s parameters in the year 2050. The pearls in these pieces have been encapsulated into individual acrylic blocks in a nostalgic act of celebration of the natural wonders of the Earth.

What’s next for you?

After I graduate I plan on moving to Paris to expand my knowledge of design in a fine jewellery house.

What do you like most about pearls?

The stunning and subtle array of colours that you can see on closer inspection.

What has been your best experience or moment at CSM?

Difficult to answer there have been many! Finding a path that I enjoy so much is probably the best feeling and experience I have had.

Who is your favourite designer or artist and why?

This is difficult to answer as I have many, however one of my favourites is the Belgian multidisciplinary artist, Jan Fabre. I think he is one of the most exciting contemporary artists and his work both in theatre and sculptures always prompts question and thought.

If you were a gemstone, what would you be?

An opal.

Name one jewellery toolbox essential that you can’t live without.

My file.

What’s your motto?

"Audentior ito"

XUE DONG

 

Tell us a bit about yourself.

I think jewelry is like small sculptures. I am interested in making jewelry, which is delicate with less formally structured shapes.

What was the inspiration for this piece?

My inspiration comes from the cloud. I love the cloud’s irregular changing shape and changing colors in different weather conditions.

Who is your favourite designer or artist and why?

I was influenced by Tara Donovan’s sculpture, I really like the way and feeling she created the fabulous structure.

What’s your motto?

"Be structural, romantic, fluency"