Tagged with 'Diamonds'

Birthstones are enduringly popular when choosing and giving jewellery. The gemstones that are aligned with particular months of the year now also appear more frequently in all types of jewellery, particularly in those types that sit close to the body such as rings, pendants and earrings. In this article we look at their history and how to identify 'what is my birthstone'?

Finding Your Birthstone

There are a number of different versions of the birthstone guide. At Winterson we draw from the British National Association of Goldsmiths list, created in 1937, with some of the more contemporary American additions, from the later 20th century.



To discover your individual birthstone, our Gemstone Guide is full of information on individual types of gems, as well as explaining their unique characteristics, composition and heritage.

The History of the Birthstone

The concept of the birthstone, or the notion that certain gems  associated with months of the year can have positive benefits, is believed to have started with the first century historian Josephus.

Josephus attributed mythological importance to the twelve stones embedded in the breastplate of Moses’ brother Aaron. The number, he believed, signified the tribes of Israel, the twelve months of the year, and the twelve signs of the zodiac. The breastplate was believed to have held emerald, sapphire, diamond, topaz, carbuncle, sardius, agate, amethyst, onyx, jasper, beryl and ligure (argued by some to have been a form of amber, and by others, lapis).



Image: Gemstone stud earrings, Lief collection at Winterson

Josephus suggested that people should own all 12 birthstones and wear each gem in its corresponding month. This concept has similarities to the Eastern navratna, or nine stones, which many Hindus believe combine to protect individuals from harmful influences and support the wearer through life’s challenges.

The contemporary Birthstone is born

Renowned gemologist George Kunz believed that the modern variation of the birthstone concept that we follow today was established in 18th century Poland. Gem traders were thought to have used the idea of the birthstone as a form of early marketing, although the Gemological Institute of America locates the birth of this practice in 1560s Germany.



Image 1: George Frederick Kunz, gemologist, circa 1900
Image 2: Table of UK birthstones, Winterson birthstones by month

The concept, Kunz believed, was aimed at increasing sales of a wider range of stones, broadening the choice for consumers and at the same time opening up a new avenue for increased sales of the jewels that contain them.

Defining the list of Birthstones

In 1912 the American National Association of Jewelers gave the practice a formal grounding, producing a list of twelve birthstones that has largely remained the standard ever since.

Additions were been made in 1952, when the Jewelry Industry Council of America made Alexandrite another gemstone for June. Pink tourmaline was added for October, citrine for November, and lapis replaced zircon as the birthstone for December. More recently, Tanzanite was added to December’s birthstones by the American Gem Trade Association, which also added spinel to August in 2016.



Image: The iconic pearl

The British National Association of Goldsmiths created its own list in 1937, drawing largely on the 1912 version, and this forms the foundation of our own Buying Guide to Birthstones, which features a table that outlines the relationship between birth months and their specific gems.

The Birthstone for June

For Winterson, June is one of our favorite months! The beginning of summer, it is also the traditional birthstone month of the pearl.



Image 1: Classic Akoya Pearl Necklace and Earrings Set in White Gold
Image 2: Mythologie Akoya Pearl and Diamond Pendant in Rose Gold

The pearl is also considered lucky for the astrological signs Cancer and Gemini. The pearl is associated with loyalty, love and generosity, as well as innocence. Many Eastern cultures also believe the pearl can help to counter anger and increase creativity.

How are precious gems defined by today's jewellers and how has this changed over the years? Precious and semi-precious gems have become more difficult to define and distinguish from each other. At the same time more and more extraordinary, but less well-known stones have been added to the fine jeweller’s palette.

In this article we look at some of the key qualities of precious gems and how we look at these in our approach to jewellery design.

Early classification of precious gems

Traditional systems of gemological classification date back to the ancient Greeks when a young philosopher, Theophrastus, began to define the material composition of stones, based on their behavior when heated. His work called On Stones was the first exploration of gemstones to move beyond the ancient mythological fables, magical or talismanic properties that had been associated with them in the past.

Theophrastus was amongst the first to attribute preciousness to a limited number of gemstones. Although the term semi-precious was only coined later in the Victorian era, On Stones established the idea that particular gems were precious due to a set of natural qualities such as colour, clarity and carat weight. It remained a key text for jewelers throughout the Renaissance.

The Cardinal stones

Emerald, ruby, sapphire, diamond and amethyst were known as the Cardinal stones, a core group of gems that symbolised the power and wealth of the church and aristocracy.

Amethyst in particular was marked out as a regal stone; Queen Elizabeth I banned all commoners from wearing purple, including amethyst, the rarity and cost of the dye echoed in the rarity and the cost of the gem.



Image 1: A pair of Lief Earrings in Yellow Gold with Green Beryl and Tahitian Pearls
Image 2: A pair of Lief Earrings with Pink Tourmaline and Akoya Pearls

The distinction of preciousness reflected not only the scarcity of these stones in ancient times, but their material quality. All of the Cardinal gemstones are translucent with fine colour in their purest forms, even the diamond whose purity is judged on its lack of subtle colour. These gems are also very hard materials, registering 8 to 10 on the Mohs hardness scale.

Questioning precious

The established definition of precious does not necessarily encompass all ancient beliefs though. Pearl, opal and amber were equally revered as precious gems, and handcarved stones (emeralds, rubies, spinels and banded agates) were the height of perceived authority and craftsmanship. Great value was also placed on visual beauty, mythic and healing properties.

Nor does the traditional definition of precious reflect the contemporary value of gems. For example, while some garnets are relatively inexpensive, the tsavorite garnet can be far more costly than a mid-quality emerald.



Image 1: A pair of Tsavorite Garnet and Akoya Pearl Drop Earrings with 18ct Gold
Image 2: Lief Ring with Pink Tourmaline and Morganite

If preciousness is a quality of rarity, there are a number of coloured gems that might also lay claim to the description. Gemstones such as the paraiba tourmaline and tanzanite are found in only one location, and in limited, finite quantities.

Beryls such as morganite, aquamarine, helidor and green beryl, all of which share the mineral composition of emerald, and imperial topaz with its natural peach and orange tones are highly prized especially when they are found with strong depths of colour. Bold coloured stones such as mandarin garnet, tourmaline and even peridot are increasingly difficult to source in their most potent shades.

A new definition of Precious

At Winterson, we look for gems that have strong colour, whose tones complement the overtones and orient of our fine quality pearls.

We also highly prize a gem’s intrinsic natural beauty. Like many gemologists today, we perceive the value in each stone and each pearl based on their unique individual qualities - the new definition of preciousness.

Following the success of the enchanting Lief earrings, designed by Winterson’s Creative Director Alice Cicolini, a series of irresistible gemstone rings and pendants are now joining the collection.

Hand-crafted in the UK and finished to perfection in 18 carat gold, the six new striking pieces continue the theme of colourful gemstones and the wild leaves of Winterson’s signature flower emblem.

Four bright blue sapphires, shouldered with eight supporting diamonds, the Lief Ring with Blue Sapphires and Diamonds combines the unforgettable timeless appeal of these precious stones with a stylish modern design.

Reminiscent of pretty peonies in bud, the petal-like tones of pink sapphires shine bright in the Lief Ring with Pink Sapphires and Diamonds.

Considered to be an ancient symbol of honesty, loyalty and trust, sapphires make a unique and elegant choice of engagement ring and these rings are the precious gift for a loved one to cherish whatever the occasion.

Perfectly suited to more everyday wear, two additional new delicately crafted three stone rings also join the Lief Collection this autumn.

Beautiful hues of blue are the theme of the first which showcases stunning Aquamarine and Tanzanite, while a spectrum of soft pinks sparkle in the Winterson Lief Ring with Pink Tourmaline and Morganite.

These gemstones are also the stars of the new Lief pendants, with a choice of sparkling Aquamarine or Pink Tourmaline set in place with two delicate flower leaves fashioned from 18 carat gold.

The Lief Collection offers elegant femininity amid the delicate colours of an alpine meadow. A perfect gift for someone special. Including you.

Introducing the latest addition to the Winterson range of exquisite pearl jewellery. The Luna Ice South Sea Pearl Ring, a timeless piece of jewellery with an irresistibly modern twist. A stunning addition to any Christmas wish list.

Capturing the spirit of winter time with its highly polished 18 carat white gold setting, ice-clear diamond and stunning South Sea pearl in purest, silvery white, the new Luna Ice ring is the product of our design work with up-and-coming British jewellery talent Alice Cicolini.

Cultured in ocean waters off the coasts of Australia and Indonesia, South Sea pearls are notable for their silky lustre. The perfectly round 8.5 mm pearl in the Luna Ice ring is perfectly complemented here by the subtle sparkle of the art-deco style baguette-cut diamond set beside it.

A new contemporary design to treasure.

With the launch of our new range of pearl rings, we introduced our beautiful Akoya Pearl and Diamond White Gold Ring.

Impeccably finished in 18 carat white gold, the ring exquisitely highlights the grace and elegance of the pearl - the traditionally symbolic gemstone for new brides around the world to wear on their wedding day.

A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE ENGAGEMENT RING

The history and romance of giving rings is part of our wedding traditions, first being given in Ancient Egypt, Greece and Rome as symbols of love, the heart and ownership.

In 1477 the Archduke Maximilian of Austria is recorded to have presented Mary of Burgundy with the world's first diamond engagement ring. Families around Europe with significant wealth followed suit.

Until De Beers discovered large diamond deposits in South Africa in the late 19th century, however, diamonds were forever to just a few.

A TRADITION BEFORE DIAMONDS

Couples instead celebrated their engagement with a variety of different coloured gemstone and gold rings.

Engagement rings with sapphires, rubies, seed pearls and other gemstones were popular, as was the use of other metal alloys such as yellow gold and rose gold.

Victorian pearl engagement rings were simple or intricate in their design.

The solitaire diamond, set in six-pronged claw style called a Tiffany Setting in 1886, is still the classic engagement ring design today.

But more unusual gemstones and cuts are back in fashion. It is also popular for couples to choose a more individual style, to personalise a ring, or even design a bespoke piece of jewellery.

THE PEARL ENGAGEMENT RING

For our ring collection, this ring design features an Akoya pearl, a variety of saltwater pearl that can truly match the emotion of the occasion with its special lustre and pink-white colour.

Two princess cut square white diamonds give the pearl an accent, whilst the flat court profile of the outside of the white gold band gives the ring a more contemporary styling.

A pearl engagement ring? Now that would be love.

One of the most precious gemstones, a sparkling diamond has been prized by jewellery lovers for almost as long as pearls. Their qualities could not be more different, however. Whereas a pearl has a complex, organic beauty, the distinctive diamond owes its name to the Greek word meaning 'unconquerable'. The diamond is one of the hardest gemstones that we know, allowing a skilled jeweller to cut and shape the stone to show off its unique relationship with light.

The 4C's system was developed by the Gemological Institute of America in the 1940s and 1950s to help explain the complexities of grading a diamond. The 4C's stand for Carat, Color or Colour, Clarity and Cut. The system is still used widely today. At Winterson, we also use the GIA's system to help explain how we grade pearl quality.

CARAT

A carat is the unit used to measure the weight of a diamond, with each metric carat weighing 0.2 grams. Carat weight is not the same type of carat as that used to describe the purity of gold, but takes its name from the carob seeds that were used as a balance on the scales of early gem traders. A carat may also be divided into 100 points, with 15 points representing 0.15 carats.

In jewellery, the greater the weight of a diamond, the greater its rarity and value. One of the largest diamonds ever found was the priceless Cullinan Diamond, weighing 3,105 metric carats.

COLOUR

The most popular diamonds used in fine jewellery are white to near colourless, representing their purity. The 4Cs scale grades these diamonds from D (Exceptional White+) to H (White), with colour and tints of yellow starting to occur at grades from I to Z. Diamond colours need to be examined in controlled lighting conditions, but in general the less colour that a diamond has, the higher its value.

CLARITY

As with other gemstones, a cut diamond may have a number of small internal blemishes or inclusions. These do not necessarily limit the beauty of a diamond and in many cases will not be visible to the naked eye.

• The very best clarity grade on the GIA grading scale is a remarkable flawless diamond graded F1 or 1F.


• Very very slightly inclusions are graded VVS1 and VVS2 and are difficult to see for a skilled grader even under a 10x magnification.


• The next grades of VS1 or VS2 have very slight inclusions, that may be visible under a 10x magnification, but are still used successfully in fine jewellery and can offer excellent value to a discerning buyer.


• The final grades of S1 and S2 and P1, P2 and P3 imperfections have inclusions that are easy to see under magnification or to the eye.

CUT

The final and most important grading factor gives a diamond its dazzling qualities. This grade is also one of the hardest to judge, being dependent on how much light is reflected by the diamond (brilliance), its sparkle when it is moved (scintillation) and how it disperses light into different colours (fire).

The traditional round brilliant cut has 58 facets, with an established geometry of angles and size, but many other shapes can be exquisitely used in a variety of jewellery designs and styles. Whatever the shape, the quality of the cut of a diamond may be graded as Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair to Poor.

Discover more about why Diamonds (and Pearls) are forever.

Diamond jewellery lovers planning to visit London this summer should make a note to visit this year's annual Summer Opening of the State Rooms at Buckingham Palace.

Following on from last year's spectacular exhibition of exquisite Fabergé eggs and other objects, a new exhibition "Diamonds: A Jubilee Celebration" will showcase diamond jewellery from the royal collections spanning from over three centuries. The centrepiece of the exhibition is the Cullinan Diamond, a copy of which is pictured above, the most famous and largest diamond ever found.

The Cullinan Diamond was discovered in 1905 in South Africa and was presented to King Edward VII by the Transvaal Government. Weighing around 3,105 metric carats before being cut into a number of smaller diamonds, the Cullinan diamond remains the largest rough diamond ever found. It was insured for $1.25m before being discreetly sent to England in a plain box by registered post so as to outwit any interested thieves.

The difficult and precise task of cutting of the stone was performed by famed diamond expert Joseph Asscher in Amsterdam, who unfairly is said to have fainted when his first attempt at cleaving the stone failed and the blade broke. With new tools the Cullinan was finally split and then cut and polished into 9 principal diamonds named Cullinan I-IX and 96 smaller brilliant cut diamonds.

Cullinan I and II, also known as the First and Second Star of Africa, were respectively set in the Sovereign's Royal Sceptre and the band of the Imperial State Crown worn at the Queen's coronation.

Together as the centrepieces of the Crown Jewels, they are two of the most famous diamonds in the world and can be seen by visitors at the Tower of London's new display of Crown Jewels. The remaining seven diamonds Cullinan III-IX were set into a variety of brooches, rings and a pendant for Queen Mary, wife of George V, and are being displayed together for the first time in this new exhibition of royal diamond jewellery.

"Diamonds: A Jubilee Celebration" opens on 30th June and runs through to 7th October 2012. Admission is only possible as part of the entry to the State Rooms at the Palace, which includes the Throne Room, the Ballroom and other state reception rooms. Be sure to book early as admission does usually sell out at least several days in advance and interest this year, with the Queen's Jubilee and the Olympics, will be particularly high.

One of the classic gemstone combinations for jewellery designers is the contrast between the striking sparkle of diamonds and the soft, silky lustre of a pearl. How and when did our love of this beautiful pairing come about?

La Belle Époque from the late 19th century to the start of World War I was an era of opulence. It was a prosperous period that created wealth and the newly rich were keen to display their social status, enjoying a wave of sumptuous fashion and luxury jewellery.

 

The Edwardian trend was for slimming and elegant silhouettes with high collars that extended the neckline, corsets that showed off S-curved bodylines and tall hats with extravagant feathers. In response jewellers created delicate garland-style jewellery that appeared as if it were embroidery, with characteristic motifs of swags, ribbons, bows and flowers.

 

Before the late 19th century, European jewellers had looked to India and Brazil for their source of diamonds. Following the discovery of large diamond deposits in South Africa, however, and the set up and purchase of small mining operations by the company De Beers, the availability of diamonds changed forever. Platinum and diamonds began to be used widely by La Belle Époque jewellery designers to create intricate and gorgeous diamond necklaces with sparkling collars.

 

The grandeur of La Belle Époque ended abruptly with the dark reality of World War I.

 

Diamonds resisted the sombre times by reinventing themselves with new designs and sharing the fashion spotlight with other gems such as cultured pearls, which were new and taking the European jewellery markets by storm. Royal and society ladies matched diamond bandeaux and tiaras with long pearl necklaces. Coco Chanel created the Little Black Dress in the 1920s that she accessorised with a string of pearls. The simplicity of that dress with the elegance and beauty of pearls appealed to middle class and high society women alike throughout the 1930s and still resonates today.

 

With our lasting love of diamonds, De Beers famously grew to become the world’s largest producer of diamonds and coined the memorable slogan “diamonds are forever”. A diamond today is the traditional choice of engagement gift, a celebration present for a 10th or 60th wedding anniversary and is the birthstone for April.

 

View our jewellery collection of Diamonds and Pearls here.

Jewellers have worked with diamonds and pearls for hundreds of years and even today this is an adored combination of gems.

 

There is an astonishing choice of gemstones available to designers, including precious stones such as sapphires, emeralds and rubies, and semi-precious stones such as amethyst, topaz and peridot, so why is it that diamonds and pearls continue to be two of a girl’s best friends?

 

Diamonds have a remarkable appearance. They appear pure, translucid, nearly colourless and reflect incredible sparkles of light. Pearls are made with an equally exquisite material called nacre. They appear silky to the touch and smooth with a dazzling iridescence and overtones of colour. The unique synergy of diamonds and pearls creates a captivating elegance that is quite unrivalled.

 

Depending on the culture and the period in time, there are many traditional symbols associated with the matching of diamonds with pearls. Diamonds represent strength, purity, love and eternity, whilst pearls are symbols of good luck, chastity, innocence and friendship. With this symbolic history, it is easy to understand why diamonds and pearls are a perfect choice for bridal jewellery or wedding .

 

A white Freshwater pearl necklace  can also be finished with a clasp set with diamond pave, and is versatile enough to be worn either for evening or business occasions. For a more relaxed every day look, pearl pendants and earrings can be mounted with sparkling diamonds for a twist of glamour.

 

If you love this combination of gems, view a selection from our Diamonds and Pearls collection.