Tagged with 'Pearl fashion'

With September quickly fading into the Autumn, we look back to some of the SS14 jewellery and pearls that excited our attention this season at London Fashion Week.

Rock Vault, curated by jeweller Stephen Webster, is a showcase of ten of the most talented designers working in the UK. The initiative is into its fourth season and a perfect opportunity for press and buyers alike to see the group's new collections.

ALICE CICOLINI

Alice Cicolini's colourful new Kimono Collection, explores traditional patterns within circles and using her trademark enamelling techniques. The Kimono pieces mix vitreous enamel with vintage hand cut diamonds, polished opals and some truly fabulous pearls!

Our forthcoming Beau collection with Alice Cicolini, was also on show for the first time. We are very excited to be launching it at Winterson soon.

MELANIE GEORGACOPOULOS

Contemporary designer Melanie Georgacopoulos is admired for challenging traditional notions of what pearls mean in today's world.

Her previous work has included splitting cultured pearls in half to reveal the concentric layers of nacre inside and drilling pearls from the inside out to leave a skeletal shell of its surface.

Previewing her new SS14 for M/G Tasaki, a collaboration with the Japanese fine jeweller, Melanie's collection featured white Freshwater pearls and stretched 18 carat gold chain. We loved the inventiveness of this ring.

Also on show was Melanie's new fine jewellery line of necklaces, pendants and earrings, exploring the relationship between pearls and diamonds that have been set in cages of 18 carat gold.

ORNELLA IANNUZZI

A welcome addition to the Rock Vault this September was Ornella Iannuzzi's coral fantasy pieces, which set a variety of colourful Freshwater and Tahitian pearls in gold and silver forms that have been inspired by nature.

Ornella Iannuzzi is best known for her sculptural, organic jewellery that is created by hand in her London studio, such as the fabulous Abyss ring above.

Launching at LFW for SS14 was Les Corallines, a new everyday wear range that continued the volcanic, underwater theme with silver and gold vermeil pieces and these baroque saltwater Tahitian pearls.

With much excitement and anticipation, the Pearls exhibition at the V&A Museum opens later this month in London.

PEARLS EXHIBITION AT THE V&A

Promising to be one of the biggest Autumn shows, the exhibition will show off the luxurious qualities of some of the world's most unusual and valuable pearls and jewellery, as well as exploring the unique heritage and impact on popular culture of this beautiful gem.

We are very fortunate to be able to ask Beatriz Chadour-Sampson and Hubert Bari, the curators of the Pearls exhibition, about the show and what a visitor can look forward to. We would like to thank them, the V&A and the Qatar Museums Authority for their support with this article.

Here are Beatriz and Hubert's thoughts on 'Pearls'.

How special has this exhibition been for you and to curate? What did you hope that its visitors may learn about pearls?

From all gems, it is the most unusual as the natural pearl is produced by living animals. Even cultured pearls after human intervention are created by nature. Visitors will be amazed to learn that, in principle, any mollusc can produce a pearl from the giant clam to the land snail, and they will be dazzled by the variety of shapes and colours of pearls.

The history of the trade of pearls between continents is fascinating, and how East and West share the same passion for pearls.

Pearls have a unique symbolic significance and mystique. Can the pearl claim to be the world's favourite gem?

Incredibly, pearls have created a global fascination over millennia, like no other gem. There is something magical about pearls, their beauty lies in their perfection of form and most of all lustre. They are born in the form that nature made them with a natural sheen.

Pearls have always been a symbol of femininity. Maybe this is the reason why the fashion for pearls continues today.

The exhibition showcases many famous examples of pearl jewellery, many styles of which are still being referenced today in popular culture. Have we already seen a 'golden age' of pearl jewellery design or is the pearl a gem that will be constantly reinvented?

Yes, as no other gem has been worn as consistently, as pearls. Pearls are neutral and versatile, appropriate for any occasion. In previous years jewellers have shown a persistent, if not renewed interest in creating new designs with pearls.

What is the most striking or surprising aspect for you about the history of the pearl?

The fascination for pearls and wish to wear these beauties of nature transcends cultures and borders. The similarities in the myths and legends surrounding the pearl in East and West are astonishing. Pearls mark authority and power, symbolize prosperity and on a more personal note they are associated with joy at weddings or tears as a sign of mourning.

Natural pearls have undergone a renaissance in the last decade, achieving spectacular prices at auction, and cultured pearls are being produced in better, more diverse and beautiful qualities. What does the future hold for this gem?

The future of the pearl depends on so many factors, not least the condition of our seas. Natural pearls are simply too rare and expensive, only affordable to the very few. Today China produces such quantities of cultured pearls of inferior quality, that they are endangering the pearl market. Whilst they give great care when creating one pearl from an oyster, the Chinese produce 50 in one mussel, at low cost in rice fields or near housing estates. In South East Asia the farms which produce the beautiful South Sea pearls are experiencing not only financial difficulties but the effects of pollution and for these reasons their future remains uncertain.

The desire for pearls has been so insatiable that imitation pearls have existed over centuries and their advocate in the 1930s Coco Chanel was instrumental in reviving the fashion for pearls and revived the industry at a time when this was unthinkable. No one can tell what the future will hold for this beautiful gem, but the fashion for pearls endures.

The 'Pearls, V&A and Qatar Museums Authority Exhibition', runs from 21 September 2013 to 19 January 2014 as part of the Qatar UK 2013 Year of Culture.

To learn more about the exhibition, visit the V&A website here.

We are very excited to have recently launched a new range of leverback earrings at Winterson. This interchangeable earring system is an elegant and beautiful way to wear pearls.

The three main classic earring designs include the stud, the hoop and the drop earring. The leverback earring is a type of hoop design, consisting  of a small hoop that is worn through a pierced earlobe.

Unlike the main hoop design, the leverback earring also has the extra safety benefit of a closure system, whereby the back of hoop has a hinged lever that can be easily clicked open and closed.

With this safety mechanism, leverback earrings tend to be popular with luxurious designs that feature precious stones, particularly with diamonds. The gemstones might be set on the front of the earring in sparkling micro-pave or with claws for larger stones.

Although these earrings can be worn on their own, leverback earrings are most popularly worn with a precious stone or pearl that dangles from the hoop below the earlobe. The combination creates an elegant drop earring that makes these earrings an ideal choice for chic evening wear.

Our leverback system also offers the possibility of choosing the style of gemstone or pearl to wear with each earring. This interchangeable design is very attractive as it gives the wearer a degree of flexibility in matching the same earring to a new outfit.

A pair of pearls fitted with small loops, shown above, are slipped simply on and off the open earring.

At Winterson our new collection of leverback pearl earrings are finished with diamonds in a choice of 18 carat white, yellow or rose gold. The prettiest of Akoya pearls, drop shaped Freshwater pearls, exotic peacock Tahitian pearls and golden South Sea pearls complete the final look.

If you would like purchase an additional pair of pearls with your earrings, then please select these from our Leverback Collection page or at checkout.

Graduation day is a day for throwing your hat in the air!  Why not also celebrate academic achievement with our selection of graduation presents.

After years of hard work studying, graduation can be a rite of passage for many, marking a transition from studenthood to professional life.

For the ceremony on graduation day, tradition holds that graduands will wear a formal gown with a hood and sometime a cap. Graduands are students that are about to graduate or receive a degree.

This tradition of wearing a gown is thought to date back to medieval times. Usually graduands will choose to wear simple dark clothes beneath their gowns so as not to distract from the academic formalities.

Women are also allowed to wear discreet jewellery and many choose to wear pearls which, amongst gemstones, are a classic and perfect graduation present.

At Winterson we can recommend three popular pieces of pearl jewellery that will complement the style of the traditional graduation gown.

 

PEARL AND DIAMOND PENDANT SET

This pretty and feminine set is made of a white freshwater pearl pendant in the shape of a drop sitting elegantly below a sparkling diamond. It is matched with a pair of freshwater white pearl stud earrings.

WHITE GOLD DIAMOND LEVERBACK AND AKOYA PEARL EARRINGS

A pair of pearl and diamond earrings are true jewellery box staples that will be treasured for years to come. This model in 18 carat white gold will add a touch of glamour to the academic formalities and is available with either Freshwater pearls or Japanese Akoya pearls.

AKOYA PEARL NECKLACE

For a special treat, a traditional white Japanese Akoya pearl necklace would be a delightful present to mark any graduation day.

We offer a number of different styles of necklace, strung with 6-6.5mm, 7-7.5mm and 8-8.5mm pearls or for added sparkle with a diamond clasp to catch the eye.

Whichever style of pearl jewellery you choose, a young lady will enjoy wearing pearl jewellery on her graduation. For many following years, she will also be reminded of this unique day spent with friends and family.

The second in a two part series of short interviews with designers from the CSM Jewellery 2013 show features Natha Khunprasert, Ruth Mackin, Sarah Ysabel Dyne Narici and Xue Dong.

Read about some of the other designers in Part I of our interviews here.

NATHA KHUNPRASERT

 

Tell us a bit about yourself.

I grew up wanting to be a fashion designer, and then find my interest in product design to then ultimately realise my true passion lies within jewellery designing and making. I enjoy injecting kitsch element into my work.

What was the inspiration for this piece?

The initial inspiration of my collection projected from my personal interest in the beauty and function of nails, as personal expression of style and extension of our bodies. The project developed into not only the jewellery for nails but instead, jewellery about ‘Fingertips’, where they play significant roles in our lives.

Who is your favourite designer or artist and why?

Melanie Georgacopoulos: I truly admire her ability to give an edge and a more youthful & playful aesthetic to the timeless value of pearls, as well as her talent in creating both equally exciting smaller pieces and big show pieces.

What’s your motto?

“Live life to the fullest”

RUTH MACKIN

 

Tell us a bit about yourself.

My name is Ruth Mackin and I was born in Vanuatu in the South Pacific. My family and I later moved to the Cayman Islands returning to Britain for my secondary education. Arts Foundation was great fun at Chesterfield College, then on to CSM. I love creating miniature detail in my creative work and hope this shows through in my design process.

What was the inspiration for this piece?

Fond memories of tropical seas and the brilliant colours of the ocean. Even now watching the ebb and flow of the tides as they sweep through rock pools. Feeding sea anemones tiny scraps of fish.

What’s next for you?

I spent a very varied and exciting internship between second and third year working for Hannah Martin (London) and various other companies. Now I want to successfully complete my degree and move forward with designing collections within a company, perhaps one with connections on the continent, hence the French lessons.

Name one jewellery toolbox essential that you can’t live without.

My paints and paint brushes.

SARAH YSABEL DYNE NARICI

 

Tell us a bit about yourself.

I am a half Italian, half British twenty-two year old female. I grew up in Milan until I was nine years old… I have been studying jewellery design at CSM for three years and am ready for the next chapter of my life to commence!

What was the inspiration for this piece?

The collection is designed for a future society, living outside of planet Earth’s parameters in the year 2050. The pearls in these pieces have been encapsulated into individual acrylic blocks in a nostalgic act of celebration of the natural wonders of the Earth.

What’s next for you?

After I graduate I plan on moving to Paris to expand my knowledge of design in a fine jewellery house.

What do you like most about pearls?

The stunning and subtle array of colours that you can see on closer inspection.

What has been your best experience or moment at CSM?

Difficult to answer there have been many! Finding a path that I enjoy so much is probably the best feeling and experience I have had.

Who is your favourite designer or artist and why?

This is difficult to answer as I have many, however one of my favourites is the Belgian multidisciplinary artist, Jan Fabre. I think he is one of the most exciting contemporary artists and his work both in theatre and sculptures always prompts question and thought.

If you were a gemstone, what would you be?

An opal.

Name one jewellery toolbox essential that you can’t live without.

My file.

What’s your motto?

"Audentior ito"

XUE DONG

 

Tell us a bit about yourself.

I think jewelry is like small sculptures. I am interested in making jewelry, which is delicate with less formally structured shapes.

What was the inspiration for this piece?

My inspiration comes from the cloud. I love the cloud’s irregular changing shape and changing colors in different weather conditions.

Who is your favourite designer or artist and why?

I was influenced by Tara Donovan’s sculpture, I really like the way and feeling she created the fabulous structure.

What’s your motto?

"Be structural, romantic, fluency"

In addition to the prize-winning work by Bella Mung (pictured above), there were many other surprising, innovative and creative uses of pearls in the CSM jewellery 2013 degree show this year.

Here we feature the first in a two part series of short interviews with designers from the CSM Jewellery 2013 show, including in this article - Beatrice Bongiasca, Claudia Rice and Emily Wright.

Read about some of the other designers in Part II of our interviews here.

BEATRICE BONGIASCA

 

Tell us a bit about yourself.

My name is Beatrice and I am from Milan, but I have been studying BA Jewellery Design at Central Saint Martins in London for the last four years. I am very lucky to have found my passion so early in life because it truly is what I want to do in my life.

What was the inspiration for this piece?

My final collection ‘The Western Orient’, which was inspired by the increasing importance of the Asian market in today’s society, is a merge between the Orient’s heritage and the West’s strong consumer capitalist culture. The motifs embedded within the jewellery hold symbiotic connotations which function as a social critique of the globalisation in Eastern Asia.

This piece in particular is based more on the Western aspect as it focuses on the phenomenon of conspicuous consumption by means of stating the ‘price’ on the pearls.

What do you like most about pearls?

I like how timeless and elegant pearls are and the contrast that they create in my work, which uses very contemporary imagery. The pearls in my collection make my jewellery look more refined as they give it a lustrous classic undertone.

What’s your motto?

"Dream big"

CLAUDIA RICE

 

Tell us a bit about yourself.

My name is Claudia Rice and I have come into the craft of jewellery making and designing from having my father (and his father) in the jewellery business all his life as my influence. Starting as a watchmakers apprentice at 15, he was a traveling salesman for Mikimoto and Rosita Pearls during the 70s, setting up workshop in Hatton Garden to having his own shop in Marylebone high street, where I spent a lot of my time.

These surroundings have fed my desire to be part of that and continue my family trade.

What was the inspiration for this piece?

My inspiration stemmed from research into my dissertation on the subject of The History of Hatton Garden and my family connection with it. Becoming intrigued by maps of old London, discovering locations of ‘hidden treasures’, using an A-Z from 1969 and making a link with the modern technology of Google Maps.

What has been your best experience or moment at CSM?

Winning a design award from the Worshipful Company of Tin Plate workers.

What’s your motto?

“What goes around…”

EMILY WRIGHT

 

Tell us a bit about yourself.

I am a quietly confident person, I enjoy being creative and I don’t work well under pressure!

What was the inspiration for this piece?

The theme for my collection is reconnecting with those we have lost, through every day gestures, such as the simplicity of placing a necklace on a loved one.

What’s next for you?

Graduating (hopefully) and going into the world of work.

What do you like most about pearls?

I love the simplicity of pearls, they are glamorous in a beautiful yet understated way.

What has been your best experience or moment at CSM?

I have enjoyed the opportunities CSM has provided, and the opportunities we have had that we wouldn’t have gotten anywhere else.

Who is your favourite designer or artist and why?

I love the sculptures of Barbara Hepworth, I love the simplistic designs and the perfection in the lines.

What’s your motto?

"The best things in life aren’t things."

Congratulations to Bella Mung, the winner of the Winterson Prize 2013 for the Best Use of Pearls.

Announced yesterday evening at Central Saint Martins, London, Bella was awarded the prize for her contemporary and often humorous exploration of the use of pearls in everyday fashion.

There were many pieces of a high standard in the CSM BA Jewellery Design Class 2013, including Claudia Rice's collection of historically inspired jewellery and Simeï Iréne Snyman's ambiguous fantasy garden of ceramic food.

The judges, which included CSM course leader Caroline Broadhead and designer Alice Cicolini, however, loved the detailed development of Bella's concepts throughout the last year.

Initially exploring the idea of the hidden shape and form of a necklace beneath a garment, inspired by her mother's jewellery, Bella playfully extended the concept to using pearls in different pieces of attire.

These often amusing and sometimes peculiar pieces of fashion included a pearl necklace that transformed into a tie, a hoody with its suggestion of pearls and a pair of gentlemen's pearl-studded brogues.

The stand-out piece was this pearl necklace (above) that was transfixed like the wearer's hair blowing in the wind. The considered shape and graduation of the necklace was perfect.

We asked Bella about her inspiration and plans for the future:

Tell us about yourself.

I studied the foundation of art and design in Los Angeles and found out I am very interested in the jewellery field.

What was the inspiration for this piece?

I love the way my mother wears her mother's silver chain half hidden by her clothes and half shown. I copy the way she does this by combining a pearl necklace with everyday wear.

What's next for you?

I will be doing an internship in BLESS after I graduate and applying for an MA degree at the Royal College of Art in 2014.

Name one jewellery toolbox essential that you can’t live without.

My Pearl knotter.

Just opened at Somerset House, London until 1st September is a celebration of the work of Erwin Blumenfeld, one of the most innovative fashion and advertising photographers of the twentieth century.

Featuring over ninety restored and coloured corrected prints of  his work, the Blumenfeld Studio exhibition tells the extraordinary story of Blumenfeld's journey behind and in front of the lens.

Born in Berlin in 1897, Blumenfeld was given a camera at the age of 10 by his uncle, a gift that was to help shape his future life.

The young Blumenfeld experimented from an early age with the technical aspects of photography, using innovative darkroom techniques, solarisation and multiple exposures to develop his own trademark style - without  the current temptations of Photoshop.

He initially focused on portraits and the nude female form, influenced in part by the work of Man Ray and the free expression of the Dadaist movement. The use of mirrors, silk, elaborate shadows, abstraction and angles also contributed to his work becoming noticed.

Moving to Paris in 1936, Blumenfeld was introduced by Cecil Beaton to French Vogue and was given a year's contract to work for the magazine.

Following the outbreak of Second World War, and a period of internment, Blumenfeld successfully fled France with his family for America.

Fashion photography for Harper's Bazaar, Vogue and advertising campaigns for Elizabeth Arden, Dior and L'Oréal followed, securing Blumenfeld a near legendary reputation.

Even today Blumenfeld is known as the photographer for having the most Vogue covers, an achievement all the more remarkable for his persistence in refusing to compromise with the magazine's picture editors.

Celebrity models such as Grace Kelly and Audrey Hepburn contributed to the glamour, but the exhibition images demonstrate that throughout Blumenfeld continued to develop  his work.

The confidently striking picture of a single eye, a beauty spot and a perfect pair of red lips for Vogue's March 1950 edition would be unknown on the front covers of today's magazines.

In a fitting tribute to Blumenfeld for Chanel, the Norwegian fashion photographer Solve Sundsbo commented "Blumenfeld was shooting 60 years ago what the rest of us will be shooting in 10 years time”.

Blumenfeld passed away in 1969 in typically unconformist style, believed to have deliberately forced a heart attack on himself by running up and down the Spanish Steps in Rome.

Following his death, an archive of some 8,000 prints were shared between his assistant and three children. Many of these have recently been faithfully restored and digitally mastered.

Blumenfeld left a stunning, much-copied and admired body of work that is surely as inspiring today as it was pioneering in the 1940s and 1950s.

We are delighted to announce a very special collaboration in Pearls with the BA Jewellery Design course at Central Saint Martins (CSM), London.

Central Saint Martins ranks amongst the most influential arts institutes in the world. It has the reputation for being the home of creativity. The College exists to generate knowledge, to inspire creativity and develop the next generation of ambitious designers, artists and performers. CSM attracts the world’s most talented students. Drawn from over 90 countries the students represent some of the world’s most exciting raw talents.

What will we be doing with CSM this year?

Firstly, we have been working with a selection of Year Three BA Jewellery Design students so that they have a fantastic opportunity to be given free rein to produce a stunning piece of jewellery using pearls. With our own heritage of over 50 years of knowledge and experience of working with pearls, we hope this collaboration will be a great experience for these soon-to-be graduates.

In June, Winterson will be awarding a prize for the Best Use of Pearls at the Jewellery Awards evening on 20th June 2013 during the Central Saint Martins degree shows.

Secondly, the Year One BA Jewellery Design students at CSM are working in conjunction the upcoming Pearls exhibition to be held at the Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A), the world famous museum of art and design, in the Autumn later this year. The exhibition explores the history of pearls from the early Roman Empire through to the present day, the beauty and allure of pearls which across centuries and cultures have long been associated with wealth, royalty and glamour.

Following an introductory talk by the exhibition's curator Beatriz Chadour, the students will be investigating the historic and cultural significance of pearls and their contemporary relevance and versatility. In addition they will be given a handling session at the V&A and experimenting directly with pearls in the workshops.

We will also be supporting these students with a range of pearls to work with. The results will be shown at the V&A on the Pearls exhibition Study Day, alongside a How to Wear Pearls event, which the students will be hosting.

It's a truly great privilege to be working with these two highly respected institutions of design.

Follow our Journal or Facebook page to keep up to date with how the collaboration develops this year.

Modernism characterised the style of 1920s jewellery, inspiring design even today with its bold, geometric lines and forms.

Following the end of World War I, this decade saw increasingly prosperous times and technological advances. Most of the creative arts sought a break from the past and looked for new directions.

In fashion, it was the decade of the Roaring Twenties with working women wearing more comfortable and practical clothes with slim, streamlined designs. Jewellery was also no exception with a number of important changes and developments.

BAUHAUS AND ART DECO

In the 1920s jewellery broke away from the romantic and elaborate, natural forms and arabesque designs of the Art Nouveau movement of 1890-1910 (during the "Belle Epoque").

In this new decade, jewellery was stripped back bare to its geometric shapes.

Aesthetic clean lines were inspired by designs found in industrial machines. A key influence of this modernism was the influential Bauhaus movement, with its philosophy of form following function.

Contrasting textures and colour were also in fashion. Examples of changing tastes in design were the use of diamonds being set against onyx or translucid citrines and amethysts juxtaposed against opaque coral and jade.

COSTUME JEWELLERY

Fashion designer Coco Chanel broke away from real gemstones with cheaper glass products. The Maison Gripoix, which still exists today, was an early partner for Coco Chanel in creating a range of glass jewellery. The iconic long pearl rope necklace was a signature piece of faux jewellery created at the time.

Josephine Baker, pictured below at the Folies Bergères in Paris, was an icon for the new Art Deco movement, with her fearless style, slicked down hair and bold earrings, oversized rings and ropes of pearls.

Glass jewellery was still expensive and only became affordable in the 1930s with injection-plastic moulding techniques. But Coco Chanel, by stepping into the world of faux jewellery, in effect launched a future industry of costume jewellery.

MACHINE-CUT GEMSTONES

Until the 1920s, gemstones were hand-cut and hand-polished. With the latest developments in machinery, it also became possible to machine-cut and polish gemstones, generating sharp lines and edges, sparkling facets and complicated new gemstone cuts.

The rectangular baguette-cut became hugely popular around this time, as it complemented the geometric designs of the day.

Jewellery of the 1920s then was an innovative period that would become notable for its stunning, daring design.

At Winterson our Luna Rose Tahitian Pearl Ring evokes the 1920s jewellery style of this creative period. The gold shank of the ring has a geometric, solid shape and an angular, baguette cut pink sapphire.

The unusual aubergine colour of its Tahitian pearl, however, would have been unknown in the 1920s and is perhaps entirely modern too.