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Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams is the V&A's latest blockbuster exhibition to focus on the social and cultural power of clothing - from the savage beauty of Alexander McQueen to the iconography of Frida Khalo, and now, Christian Dior’s enduring juxtaposition of fantasy and functionalism, softness and tailoring that has kept fashion lovers in thrall to his brand for over 70 years.

Based on the original exhibition curated by Olivier Gabet and Florence Müllerat Le Musee des Arts Decoratifs, Paris, the V&A show has additional material selected by the V&A’s senior fashion curator Oriole Cullen. Dior in Britain, a section especially created for the London show, celebrates Monsieur Dior’s relationship to the city, its craft ateliers and the celebrated women who became his clients.

”Dior admired the grandeur of the great houses and gardens of Britain, as well as British-designed ocean liners, including the Queen Mary," Cullen explains. This unique selection of work includes a series of collaborative pieces designed by Dior but created by British craft houses such as Dents. It culminates in a beautiful Dior gown worn by Princess Margaret on her 21st birthday



Image: Princess Margaret, wearing Dior for her 21st birthday

"In 1947, Christian Dior changed the face of fashion with his New Look,” said Cullen,“which redefined the female silhouette and reinvigorated the post-war Parisian fashion industry.” Tragically Monsieur Dior himself was only at the helm of his eponymous brand for a decade before his sudden and unexpected death in Italy.

It is testament to the strength of his vision that the designers who followed in his footsteps were each, in their own way, able to evolve the label, whilst ensuring that the core elements of Dior’s world remained constant - although each of these visionary creatives emphasised differing qualities of Dior’s voice. The exhibition is organized around these themes, from the Garden to the Ballroom.



Image 1: 30 Avenue Montaigne, Paris, circa 1947
Image 2: Christian Dior with model Lucky, circa 1955

"The influence of Christian Dior's design was all-pervasive and helped to define an era. In their own individual ways, each of the house's successive artistic directors has referenced and reinterpreted Dior's own designs and continued the legacy of the founder ensuring that the house of Christian Dior is at the forefront of fashion today," Cullen suggests.

Whilst the universe John Galliano created under the banner of Dior was one of the brand’s most recognised eras, the exhibition makes clear the strength of both Raf Simons’ and Maria Grazia Chiuri’s visions for the house. In their own ways, each of the two most recent artistic directors have been able to capture and distill Dior’s magical combination of the fantastical with the wearable, whilst remaining true to the energy and direction of their times.



Image 1: Bar Suit by Christian Dior, 1947
Image 2: Coat, 2012 by Raf Simons
Image 2: Dress, 2018, by Maria Grazia Chiuri

If anything else, the exhibition emphasises how hard it is to design legendary, epoch defining clothes. Whilst there are some genuinely stunning garments in the show, it is hard to come away from it without thinking that, with the exception of the recently revived Galliano designed Dior Saddle bag, the New Look was by far the label’s most globally recognised silhouette.

For all this, Dior: Designer of Dreams is a feast for both fashion connoisseurs and interested observers, the quality of workmanship rightly celebrated throughout the exhibition, and a reminder of why Dior has reigned supreme over the world of fashion since 1947.

Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams is at the V&A from 2 February - 1 September 2019.

New to the Mythologie collection is the refined simplicity of the Dewdrop earrings and pendants.

The Mythologie collection is inspired by the legends of the teardrop pearl throughout history. A symbol of new beginnings, pearls make a perfect gift for Christmas and the new year to come.

Celebrating the pearl's history as a symbol of purity, love and wisdom, the elongated drop shape of the design captures the sparkle of morning dew, which some ancient cultures believed was crystallised into a pearl.



Image 1: Mythologie Dewdrop Akoya Pearl Earrings in White Gold
Image 2: Mythologie Dewdrop Akoya Pearl Pendant in White Gold

The Ancient Greeks believed that pearls were the tears of the Gods, and that wearing pearls for a wedding would protect the bride from tears and sorrow. Over generations the pearl’s connections with innocence, beauty and purity have made it the perfect gemstone for a bride.



Image 1: Mythologie Dewdrop Akoya Pearl Earrings in Rose Gold
Image 2: Mythologie Dewdrop Akoya Pearl Pendant in Rose Gold

Hindu folklore refers to the pearl as a dewdrop, falling from the night sky into the moonlit sea, where Krishna, the god of love, plucks it from the ocean floor as a bridal gift for his daughter. Show your love for that special someone with a stunning new Mythologie Dewdrop set this Christmas.



Image 1: Mythologie Dewdrop Akoya Pearl Earrings in Yellow Gold
Image 2: Mythologie Dewdrop Akoya Pearl Pendant in Yellow Gold

Each elegant Dewdrop is crafted with a beautiful Akoya pearl, topped by a pave of brilliant cut diamonds, and hand finished in 18 carat white, yellow or rose gold.

A special Dark Dewdrop design is now also available, with the natural tones of Tahitian pearls that are perfect for the evening.

Aidan Madden was announced as the winner of the 2018 Winterson Prize for the Best Use of Pearls at Central Saint Martins, London last night, where degree collections from jewellery's future stars went on display.

The influential arts institute’s annual graduate show saw students presenting original pearl pieces, created with advice and support from Winterson Director Andrew Fraser and Creative Director Alice Cicolini.

Aidan Madden was named this year’s winner of the Winterson Pearl prize for his collection of single earrings, each finely crafted from freshwater pearls. Aidan has painstakingly fused together, carved and finely lathe-turned the pearls into a series of gently humorous jewels.



Image 1: Arm, by Aidan Madden
Image 2: Face, by Aidan Madden

Aidan's studs reference pop cultural themes from Disney to Alien, using a gemstone that is more commonly associated with classicism and aristocracy. His craftsmanship and attention to detail gives the results a subtlety and delicacy that ensures his work stands out from similar concepts.

Aidan described his collection to us: “I did not start this project with any preconceptions of the pearl. As soon as I started to cut and join them, their playful pearl faces begin to appear and it seemed that the approach had infinite potential to create a diverse and accessible series of earrings.”



Image 1: Bug Eye, by Aidan Madden
Image 2: Cube, by Aidan Madden
Image 3: Pink and Yellow, by Aidan Madden

Squared studs and alien heads reveal some of the production process behind the creation of freshwater pearls, with visible nacre standing in for ethereal eyes, and the edges of squares retaining the peacock dyes that have been used to colour the pearl.



Image: Pearl Culture, by Aidan Madden

Exquisite carved pearl crowns sit on top of ghostly heads, caterpillars of pearls wrap around to create unique hoops and cartoon characters that are rendered in a fine balance of coloured pearls.

Caroline Broadhead, BA Jewellery Design Course Leader commented "Aidan has investigated different ways of splicing and carving pearls to allow a view through the outer layer of nacre to the pearl on the inside. The collection is small scale and intimate and on close inspection, there is much wit and pleasure in the way he has combined colours and created associations. It is a delightful body of work celebrating the cultured pearl."



Images: Hoop, by Aidan Madden

Commenting on the award, Winterson's Creative Director Alice Cicolini said "We are delighted to celebrate Aidan's intensive investigation of the language of pearl jewellery. Our prize is for innovation with pearls and it was wonderful to see how many students really embraced that idea this year. It was Aidan's commitment to the gemstone as the starting point for his creative exploration that really stood out for us. We are excited to see where this journey takes him - and our perceptions of what a pearl jewel can be."

Each year the prize celebrates an appreciation and understanding of the qualities of the pearl. With such an original and diverse group of work this year, Aidan was an excellent winner. Congratulations Aidan!

Read more about Aidan Madden and the other CSM designers' work here.

Birthstones are enduringly popular when choosing and giving jewellery. The gemstones that are aligned with particular months of the year now also appear more frequently in all types of jewellery, particularly in those types that sit close to the body such as rings, pendants and earrings. In this article we look at their history and how to identify 'what is my birthstone'?

Finding Your Birthstone

There are a number of different versions of the birthstone guide. At Winterson we draw from the British National Association of Goldsmiths list, created in 1937, with some of the more contemporary American additions, from the later 20th century.



To discover your individual birthstone, our Gemstone Guide is full of information on individual types of gems, as well as explaining their unique characteristics, composition and heritage.

The History of the Birthstone

The concept of the birthstone, or the notion that certain gems  associated with months of the year can have positive benefits, is believed to have started with the first century historian Josephus.

Josephus attributed mythological importance to the twelve stones embedded in the breastplate of Moses’ brother Aaron. The number, he believed, signified the tribes of Israel, the twelve months of the year, and the twelve signs of the zodiac. The breastplate was believed to have held emerald, sapphire, diamond, topaz, carbuncle, sardius, agate, amethyst, onyx, jasper, beryl and ligure (argued by some to have been a form of amber, and by others, lapis).



Image: Gemstone stud earrings, Lief collection at Winterson

Josephus suggested that people should own all 12 birthstones and wear each gem in its corresponding month. This concept has similarities to the Eastern navratna, or nine stones, which many Hindus believe combine to protect individuals from harmful influences and support the wearer through life’s challenges.

The contemporary Birthstone is born

Renowned gemologist George Kunz believed that the modern variation of the birthstone concept that we follow today was established in 18th century Poland. Gem traders were thought to have used the idea of the birthstone as a form of early marketing, although the Gemological Institute of America locates the birth of this practice in 1560s Germany.



Image 1: George Frederick Kunz, gemologist, circa 1900
Image 2: Table of UK birthstones, Winterson birthstones by month

The concept, Kunz believed, was aimed at increasing sales of a wider range of stones, broadening the choice for consumers and at the same time opening up a new avenue for increased sales of the jewels that contain them.

Defining the list of Birthstones

In 1912 the American National Association of Jewelers gave the practice a formal grounding, producing a list of twelve birthstones that has largely remained the standard ever since.

Additions were been made in 1952, when the Jewelry Industry Council of America made Alexandrite another gemstone for June. Pink tourmaline was added for October, citrine for November, and lapis replaced zircon as the birthstone for December. More recently, Tanzanite was added to December’s birthstones by the American Gem Trade Association, which also added spinel to August in 2016.



Image: The iconic pearl

The British National Association of Goldsmiths created its own list in 1937, drawing largely on the 1912 version, and this forms the foundation of our own Buying Guide to Birthstones, which features a table that outlines the relationship between birth months and their specific gems.

The Birthstone for June

For Winterson, June is one of our favorite months! The beginning of summer, it is also the traditional birthstone month of the pearl.



Image 1: Classic Akoya Pearl Necklace and Earrings Set in White Gold
Image 2: Mythologie Akoya Pearl and Diamond Pendant in Rose Gold

The pearl is also considered lucky for the astrological signs Cancer and Gemini. The pearl is associated with loyalty, love and generosity, as well as innocence. Many Eastern cultures also believe the pearl can help to counter anger and increase creativity.

Each year we work with the student jewellery designers at Central Saint Martins in London, giving them an opportunity to experience designing with pearls for their final year collections.

We will be awarding the Winterson Prize 2018 to one of the students for ‘The Best Use of Pearls’ at the CSM Jewellery Awards Evening on 21st June. The BA Jewellery graduate collections are exhibited at CSM and open to the public from June 20th - 24th.

Here we feature the first part in a series of short interviews with designers from the CSM Jewellery 2018 show, including in this article - Geraldine Wu, Hannah Cochrane, Isla Gilham, Yayun Fang and Yichen Dong.

Read about the other designers in Part I and Aidan Madden, the winner of this year's prize.

 



Geraldine Wu

Tell us a little bit about yourself.
I am from Hong Kong and have lived in London for 4 years now. Being immersed in such busy and diverse places my whole life, I can’t be away from the city for too long. I love living in a place where I can experience the past and the present all at once.

What was the inspiration for the 'Ocean Archives' collection?
I was inspired by illuminated manuscripts and their purpose of being visually decorative to ornament text, painting a fuller picture of the story. I wanted to create jewellery that would emulate a similar effect, with the narrative that the collection is a rediscovered treasure hoard. Hence there is an archaic, medieval influence within the designs.

What do you find inspiring about pearls?
I find pearls very poetic. They are quieter and more understated than faceted stones, they allow their soft lustre to speak for themselves. In a sense, they are not competitive for attention, but know their worth. Also given that they originate from bodies of water, they are very fitting within my collection.

What have you discovered about working with pearls?
I discovered that laser engraving them results in an iridescent powdery finish. My favourites were the dark baroque pearls, as the silvery/golden finish stands out most against the dark surface. I love that it looks like the text is stuck within the pearls, suspended in time.

Which designer or artist do you most admire?
Renaissance painters such as Raphael and Botticelli, I’m always in awe of the juxtaposition of dynamism and restraint in Renaissance paintings.

Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
Anyone expressive and likes to curate their own story or character through their dressing.

What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic?
A design that withstands the test of time, something that people always return to.

What’s next for you after CSM?
To learn within the industry and develop my skills as a jewellery designer.

 



Hannah Cochrane

Tell us a little bit about yourself?
I have always been fascinated by jewellery, from the child who eagerly inspected the fine jewellery adverts plastered around Geneva airport, to the adult who spends far too much time staring at other people’s jewellery on the tube.

What was the inspiration for the 'A Sharper Image' collection?
Inspired by concepts put forward by the field of neuroaesthetics, I researched visual elements and design techniques that would re-occur again and again within jewellery from different countries and cultural backgrounds. An example of this was threading teeth and bone structures together to form cohesive strands. Through analysing different threads of aesthetic preference, I condensed these  into a visual style that aligned with my own.

What do you find inspiring about pearls?
To me, the pearl echoes of the first instances of jewellery making: the gathering of beautiful natural objects and using them as adornment.

What have you discovered about working with pearls?
I wanted the otherworldly colour shifts found in some pearls I acquired to be displayed in the best way possible. I found the best way to do this was to find said pearls and then design around them, specifically tailoring the original metal design around it.

Which designer or artist do you most admire?
Too many to count, but currently transfixed by Fernando Jorge's alluring designs.

Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
Quite honestly? Myself.

What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic?
A piece that people remember, not necessarily because it might be unique or groundbreaking, but because it lingers on the mind, long after first seeing it.

What’s next for you after CSM?
I plan to look for experience and work within the field of jewellery.

View more of Hannah's work here.

 



Isla Gilham

Tell us a little bit about yourself.
Five years ago, I came across a jewellery workshop on the isle of Iona. The pieces reflected and told stories of the island; Celtic patterns, Serpentine pebbles, coastlines and simplistic beauty; It was at this moment, that I knew I wanted to create jewellery too.

What was the inspiration for the 'Temptation' collection?
The cherished family story of my Great-Grandad’s Jelly Tot tiara.

What do you find inspiring about pearls?
That they embody the idea of beauty in an unexpected place; inside a mollusc’s shell. A concept I have taken for my chewing gum, usually seen to be disgusting, adorning the streets.

What have you discovered about working with pearls?
The beauty of laser engraving their surface! It reveals more beautiful tones and has an almost holographic quality.

Which designer or artist do you most admire?
Many, however, this year, I’ve really admired and taken inspiration from Dutch Golden Age paintings which ‘shout’ indulgence and opulence. The paint captures the deliciousness of food in still lives as I try to with precious materials.

Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
Anyone who loves the concept of beautiful, elegant materials but with a playful twist.

What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic?
I think a piece that captures the imagination whilst reflecting and ‘centre staging’ the materials used.

What’s next for you after CSM?
To keep designing, making and being excited by jewellery!

 



Yayun Fang

Tell us a little bit about yourself.
My name is Yayun. As a jewellery designer, I love working with different materials and exploring the traditional craftsmanship practices in my jewellery. One of my biggest pleasures is seeing people wear a piece of jewellery I made and feeling good wearing it.

What was the inspiration for the 'Hip-Hop Lace' collection?
A combination of delicate lace from old master paintings and bold hip-hop jewellery styles are the main inspiration for this collection.

What do you find inspiring about pearls?
I love the alluring shine and elegant colour. I never get tired of looking at pearls or mother-of-pearl as they always have different shades, colour and shine.

What have you discovered about working with pearls?
Pearl accessories always appear along with lace pieces in old master portraits, they both share the same language of delicacy and elegance. In my final collection I wanted to design pieces with both boldness and delicacy. Mother-of-pearl as a material offers me the biggest surface to apply the lace patterns with the way I join them together, which allows me to create a bold yet elegant feel.

Which designer or artist do you most admire?
Andrew Grima.

Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
Confident and fearless people.

What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic?
Highlight the best characteristics of a material and approach it in an unexpected and unique way.

What’s next for you after CSM?
I would like to further my career as a jeweller and aim to join the design department of a jewellery company.

View more of Yayun's work here.

 



Yichen Dong

Tell us a little bit about yourself.
I am from China. I like witty and unexpected contemporary designs, and to think conceptually.

What was the inspiration for the 'Be who you want to be’ collection?
I was inspired by stereotypes around transgender, transvestism, LGBT and roles of each gender. I admire those people who are brave enough to express their true identity.

What do you find inspiring about pearls?
To use pearl as a metaphor and a response. I found pearls necklace represent purity and elegance in commonsense, and I am interested in creating contrasts and bring the pearl out of this ‘stereotype’.

What have you discovered about working with pearls?
The single pearl can be a jewellery piece with many possibilities. The colour, its glow and shape can tell lots of stories.

Which designer or artist do you most admire?
Akiko Kurihara. Her works are witty, clever and unexpected with a great sense of humour.

Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
People who need encouragement to express identity and to find who they are.

What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic?
The relationship between materials and the story behind the jewellery makes a piece classic and unique.

What’s next for you after CSM?
I’ve got offer and will continue jewellery study in RCA.

View more of Yichens's work here.

Each year we work with the student jewellery designers at Central Saint Martins in London, giving them an opportunity to experience designing with pearls for their final year collections.

We will be awarding the Winterson Prize 2018 to one of the students for ‘The Best Use of Pearls’ at the CSM Jewellery Awards Evening on 21st June. The BA Jewellery graduate collections are exhibited at CSM and open to the public from June 20th - 24th.

Here we feature the first part in a series of short interviews with designers from the CSM Jewellery 2018 show, including in this article - Aidan Madden, Bam Jansanjai, Beichen Guan, Biying Chen and Gabriella Goldsmith.

Read Part II of this series and about Aidan Madden, the winner of this year's prize.

 



Aidan Madden

Tell us a little bit about yourself.
I sit somewhere between contempory and fine jewelry. I appreciate tradition, but like to turn it on its head.

What was the inspiration for the 'Pearl Culture' collection?
Initially, I had no interest in pearls. This was a good starting point, as I hadn't any preconceptions of how they should be represented. This pushed me to change them significantly through unconventional methods.

What do you find inspiring about pearls?
I find there is much more potential as a material rather an embelishment. Once you begin to cut and join them they have infinite potential.

What have you discovered about working with pearls?
Exposing the pearls' nucleus is what drew my attention, prompting the series of ‘pearl faces’ and pearl tubes.

Which designer or artist do you most admire?
Taffin and Hemmerle; they do things differently and have an experimental way of working with materials.

Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
My collection is playful and diverse so I feel it will reach out to a broad spectrum of people.

What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic?
A design that transcends the current trends.

What’s next for you after CSM?
I would like to continue working with pearls and expanding on my collection.

 



Bam Jansanjai

Tell us a little bit about yourself.
I like working in positive, playful and unique designs with different materials creating jewellery with stories. So my jewellery is the way that I express myself to other people.

What was the inspiration for the 'How to Wear Good Luck' collection?
I think it is very interesting how people give objects the meaning and value that represent something spiritual and how one object can mean something to someone. So I wanted to explore a context of jewellery that is more than just an adornment, a jewellery that brings luck to the wearers or at least brings a positive energy to them. This collection is inspired by 13 old good luck superstitions that are converted into a wearable jewellery in modern context.

What do you find inspiring about pearls?
One of the pieces in my collection is called “Magic Mole”. People believe that moles indicate luck so I made pearl moles that ones can stick on their faces in the position where they want to enhance the luck. So I want to add value to the mole and to emphasize their specialness with pearl.

What have you discovered about working with pearls?
Pearls are very fragile. Working with them required a lot of patience but it somehow gave me calmness.

Which designer or artist do you most admire?
Alessandro Michele.

Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
Everyone. Basically, anyone who wants to brighten up their day with a little help from good luck jewellery.

What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic?
The concept and a good design that capture everyone’s attention.

What’s next for you after CSM?
For me, being successful in competitive world of design requires a lot more than just design skills. So I have decided to do MA in Luxury Brand Management.

View more of Bam's work here.

 



Beichen Guan (Esther)

Tell us a little bit about yourself. 
I am a Chinese student who has studied in Central Saints Martin BA Jewelry Design for 3 years. I am super interested about Architectural design and Installation art, it also can be a skill in several artistic mediums.

What was the inspiration for the 'Ultra Sparking Smiles' collection?
For this collection, inspired from the star pattern of “emoji ” that people easily can understand, into those teeth whitening products and tools. In a entertaining way to show people just like me who try so hard to whiten their teeth because of the aesthetic feeling pressures from society.

What do you find inspiring about pearls?
Lots of people adore the pearly whitened teeth that those Hollywood stars have after 2000. I am trying to find the way to showing my feeling of teeth whitening industry as jewelry designer. The variety of a pearl’s shape and color make a really good figure of human teeth.

What have you discovered about working with pearls?
I try to used mother of pearl carving skills to cut out a rhombus shinning pattern that describes the message of dental teeth whitening.  Also I using graduated color to represent the different aesthetic varieties of subcultures related to the teeth whitening.

Which designer or artist do you most admire? 
I find such designers brand as Ambush, Dubellier and Schield to be highly inspiring and contemporary.

Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
This collection is quite personal as it's my point of view. It's talking about the people who like me, wish to whiten their teeth to have the pearly shining teeth like those stars have.

What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic?
Probably just like Melvyn Kirtley, Tiffany chief gemologist said, “ always pushing the boundaries of innovation, and doing things that we’ve never done before.”

What’s next for you after CSM?
I will try to do some internship jobs after I graduate, to learn more things outside of college.

View more of Beichen's work here.

 



Biying Chen

Tell us a little bit about yourself.
My name is Biying and I am from China. My jewellery always has a strong interaction with the wearer.

What was the inspiration for the 'Jewellery Shop' collection?
I found customers’ and salesperson’s attitude to display items were entirely different during my work experience in 2016, which led me think about the value of display props.The comparison of the shop window in the day and night was my direct inspiration. At night, jewellery pieces are often removed and stored for safety. It seems that the display props become the protagonist in the showcase.In this collection, I used the preciousness of pearls to question and highlight the value of display props.

What do you find inspiring about pearls?
Pearls are not as aggressive as other gemstones. With their natural, random lustre and general relatively smooth edges, for me, pearls can reflect the softness of femininity.

What have you discovered about working with pearls?
Although not all the pearls are exactly the same size when I ask a specific size in the shop, I find it even more natural which gives a contrast to the precise machine work.

Which designer or artist do you most admire?
Otto Künzli and Giorgio Morandi.

Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
Energetic and playful people.

What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic?
The particular concept behind a piece is the most crucial factor.

What’s next for you after CSM?
I woud like to learn more about the jewellery industry and start to set up my own business.

 



Gabriella Mika Goldsmith

Tell us a little bit about yourself.
I was born and raised in Denmark. With an American dad and a Danish mom, I always felt the need of travelling which eventually led me to move to London to continue my further education. I have found that studying jewellery and living in London has given me the insight to a world of wonderful odd eccentrics and charismas.

What was the inspiration for this collection?
The collection reflects on my inner sub-conscious that allows to dream away by presenting identity’s different from the one you see in real life thus the facial features presented throughout the work. I was inspired by the thoughts behind surrealism and therefor the bubbles have become an instrument to allow one to sooth away by recapturing childhood moments disturbing the rational.

What do you find inspiring about pearls?
Each cultured pearl is unique, and I find it fascinating how we can use these water-made species in our jewellery. They are subtle but have a beautiful glaze with their skin like colours.

What have you discovered about working with pearls?
That they are extremely fragile, that there are so many different types of “real” pearls, and that they shouldn’t be regarded as a conservative jewel!

Which designer or artist do you most admire?
Tone Vigeland and Alexander McQueen – and so many others!

Who could you imagine wearing your jewellery?
Anyone who are willing to challenge conventional jewellery and has an appreciation for the craft.

What is it that makes a piece of jewellery a design classic?
A design that everyone can appreciate, is timeless with the highest level of craftsmanship.

What’s next for you after CSM?
I have just been accepted for an MA at Sandberg Institute in Amsterdam.

View more of Gabriella's work here.

This spring, the V&A Museum in London celebrates the magnificence of the legendary Ocean Liners. Symbols of the technological advancement and celebration of luxury that defined the early 20th century,  the Ocean Liners also gained notoriety for tales of human tragedy.

The exhibition takes its audience on a journey from the Belle Epoque to Art Deco, illustrating the way in which these monumental feats of engineering facilitated waves of entrepreneurship and the global movement of wealth during these periods.

The era was defined by its innovation, glamour and audacity, providing a canvas for highly crafted, extravagant interiors and for the ostentatious glamour of their upper class travelers.



Image 1: Duke and Duchess of Windsor's luggage, Goyard, about 1950
Image 2: Paquebot, Paris, Charles Demuth, United States 1921-22

The exhibition showcases objects from the emotive deckchairs of the downed Titanic, to the iconic graphics that the industry supported, the legendary luggage of Goyard and glittering flapper dresses of the 1920s.

The Cartier Tiara

One of the most famous jewels displayed in this current exhibition is the Allen Tiara, commissioned from the legendary house of Cartier in 1909 by the Canadian banker and shipping magnate Sir Hugh Allan, as a gift for his wife Marguerite.

As with the Ocean Liners themselves, Cartier’s graphic combination of platinum, white diamonds and pearls came to symbolise the jewellery fashions of this generation.

The Allen Tiara was designed as an open work band in the Greek key style, millegrain-set with round faceted diamonds, inside an outer border of natural pearls, and framing an old mine-cut diamond at the centre.



Image: Diamond and pearl tiara saved from the Lusitania, Cartier, Paris 1909

The Cartier diamond tiara was fatefully taken by Lady Allen on board the Lusitania, travelling from New York to Liverpool, where she was accompanied by two of her three daughters, Anna and Gwendolyn, two maids, and a host of luggage.

The Sinking of the Lusitania

Cunard’s Lusitania began operational service in 1907, the largest and certainly one of the fastest ocean liners crossing the North Atlantic. Although the Lusitania was considered for requisition by the British Government at the start of the First World War, the liner was ruled out due to the immense quantities of coal that such a large ship would consume, at a time when endurance rather than speed was becoming important.

The Lusitania continued to operate as a commercial liner, carrying thousands of passengers back and forth from Europe to America.

Early in 1915, Germany declared the sea around Britain to be a war zone. Although, the German Embassy placed a warning on an advertisement for the Lusitania’s May 1915 voyage that Lady Allen was destined to board,  many felt that the ship’s speed made her safe.



Image 1: Marlene Dietrich onboard the Queen Elizabeth, arriving in New York, 21 December 1950
Image 2: Detail of silk georgette and glass beaded Salambo dress, Jeanne Lanvin, Paris 1925

Perhaps Sir Hugh Allen’s long family association with the shipping industry gave his wife the encouragement to continue with her voyage? It was to prove a tragic decision; Lady Allen lost both of the daughters as the Lusitania was struck by a German torpedo.

Sinking within 18 minutes, the liner’s celebrated speed was one of the very factors that contributed to the significant loss of life as many of the lifeboats were dragged under water - only 791 of the 1,989 who travelled that day survived. Heartbreakingly, the tiara itself was rescued from the wreckage by one of the Allen’s maids.

The Plant Mansion and Necklace

Pierre Cartier was symbolic of an era of global travel and international business. Establishing the American office of his father’s Parisian jewellery business on Fifth Avenue in 1908, it was from New York that he built the company into the legendary brand name that it is today.

Cartier’s current flagship store in the city was originally built in 1905 for Morton F Plant, a wealthy railroad magnate, by architect Robert W. Gibson. Morton Plant’s wife Maisie encountered Cartier in 1917, becoming enamoured by a double-strand necklace of 128 flawless natural pearls.



Image: Wooden wall panel from the Beauvais deluxe suite on the Île de France, 1927

Cartier offered her husband a trade—the $1 million rare necklace plus $100 for the 52nd Street and Fifth Avenue mansion which would become his new boutique. At the time of the deal, the Plant’s home was valued at $925,000.

The End of an Era

It was not to prove a good deal for the Plants. Only a few short years later, the value of Mrs Plant’s pearls would dramatically decrease. Across the seas in Japan, Kokichi Mikimoto began to take his cultured pearls beyond Tokyo to international markets. Mikimoto launched his first overseas store in London in 1915, transforming the market for pearls as we know it today.



Image: Titanic in dry dock, c1911

As cultured pearl technology and farming overtook the natural pearl, and greatly broadened the market for these gems, so too would ocean travel for the super rich be superseded by the aeroplane. On 1st January 1914, the St. Petersburg-Tampa Airboat Line became the world's first scheduled passenger airline service, marking the beginning of the end of the era of seaborne glamour.

An unique opportunity to revisit this sophisticated form of travel, the V&A exhibition 'Ocean Liners: Speed and Style' continues until 17th June 2018.

Introducing the Mythologie collection, inspired by the myths and legends of the fabled pearl. The wonderful shape of the pearl, and its associations with water, has reached across many cultures and celebrated as a symbol of purity, love and wisdom.

This legend of the drop shaped pearl is the basis of our inspiration for Mythologie. Aphrodite, Goddess of Love, was born from the sea, and the Greeks believed that pearls were created from the drops of water that cascaded from her body as she rose from the ocean. Hindu folklore also speaks of pearls as dewdrops that have tumbled out of the night, into the moonlit sea. Shafts of light from the moon drew oysters to the surface of the water, glistening with heavenly dew.



Image 1: Classic Leverbacks with Mythologie Amethyst Drops in White Gold
Image 2: Mythologie Akoya Pearl and Diamond Pendant in White Gold

Chinese legends suggest that pearls were the thoughts formed inside the mind of the dragon, and brought into the world as the drops of mist of the dragon’s breath. Arabian myths suggest pearls are hardened moon drops. The ancient Japanese believed they were created from the tears of fantastical creatures, such as mermaids, nymphs, and angels.

The collection features earrings and pendants created from amethyst, green amethyst, rose quartz, London blue topaz, aquamarine and citrine – and of course the pearl – all complemented with a delicate pave of diamonds, like drops of dew.



Image 1: Mythologie Akoya Pearl and Diamond Pendant in Yellow Gold
Image 2: Classic Leverbacks with Mythologie London Blue Topaz Drops in Yellow Gold

The Mythologie earring drops have also been specially created as a complement to our classic Diamond Leverbacks. The leverbacks are already a versatile addition to any jewellery wardrobe, with a range of interchangeable pearls in Akoya, freshwater drops, Tahitian pearls in tones of grey, black and peacock, and stunning golden and white South Sea pearls. The new Mythologie drops extends this flexibility further, with colour or tone, whatever your outfit.

For the Mythologie collection, we are also introducing a new blue diamond leverback earring in white gold, and a pink diamond leverback in yellow gold. These two new earrings offer a dramatic complement to the new gemstone drops, creating a stunning way to change the style of your jewellery.

Image 1: Classic Leverbacks with Mythologie Rose Quartz Drops in Rose Gold
Image 2: Mythologie Green Amethyst and Diamond Pendant in Rose Gold

To match the leverback fittings, the Mythologie pendants are available in the same gemstone combinations and are suspended below a special drop-shaped white diamond pendant, finished in 18 carat white gold.

The pearl’s long association with love is captured in the fable of Krishna, the Hindu god of love, who dived to the bottom of the ocean to capture the finest pearl drop to give as a gift on the marriage of his daughter. In the Ramayana, the elements of earth, fire, air and water offer up gifts to the gods; the sea offers the pearl, and the gods wear them next to their hearts.

Give the gift of love with a piece of jewellery from Mythologie collection.

Astral is our new collection of jewellery, inspired by the stars, and captures the night sky's brilliance in radiant diamonds and heavenly combinations of colourful sapphires.

Grouping three round faceted gemstones as the central motif, the collection also references the occurrence of the number three in nature – from the triangular patterns within major constellations, to the classical trefoil of petals and leaves. The number 3 was believed by ancient cultures to convey good fortune, representing wholeness and the unity of harmony, wisdom and understanding.



Image: Astral Cluster Pendant and Astral Cluster Earrings in Yellow Gold

Taking as our starting point the mirrored configuration of the Summer and Winter Triangles, groupings of major stars that are visible in the height of summer and depth of winter, Astral draws on spectacular celestial events from the Aurora Borealis to the Red Nova, to inspire a selection of gems that are as bold and clear in their colours as they are radiant in their fire.

Astral Cluster showcases its white diamonds to recreate stellar constellations, the groupings of radiant stars that are visible on Earth under clear skies. Comprising a pendant and stud earrings set with 2.5mm or 3mm diamonds, Astral Cluster is available both in 18ct yellow and white gold.



Image 1: Astral Dawn Earrings in White Gold
Image 2: Astral Blaze Earrings in Yellow Gold

Three additional colourways are similarly inspired by spectacular moments in the night sky.

Astral Blaze resembles the sumptuous fire of a magical sunset, with six faceted sapphires in tones of apricot, deep pink and fiery orange hand-set in 18 carat yellow gold. Astral Lagoon captures the opulent reflection of the night skies in ocean water, studded with blue diamonds, tanzanites and deep hued amethysts, hand-set in 18 carat white gold. And Astral Dawn evokes the exquisite break of dawn, as the first rays of sun merge with the stars, captured by six faceted sapphires in tones of purple, pink and rose, hand-set in 18 carat white gold.



Image: The Astral collection

The coloured gemstone series comprises a matching pendant and earrings, hand-set with 3mm gems in 18 carat gold. The Astral studs also form an additional complement to our selection of interchangeable pearls that can be purchased independently. These pearl fittings can already be worn with earrings from the pretty gemstones of our Lief collection to the pave diamond leaves of the Enchanted range.

With the new collection, the Astral Blaze earrings provide a spectacular contrast to the stunning dark hues of the Tahitian pearl, the Astral Lagoon studs are the perfect partner for our peacock Tahitian pearls and the Astral Dawn gems will draw out the rose blush overtones of the white Akoya pearls.

In early December, a stunning leverback drop earring to complement our classic diamond leverback earrings will also feature the Blaze and Lagoon gems set against citrines in rich honey tones and imperial purple amethysts.

View the Astral collection here.

We are delighted and thrilled to announce that Winterson has been shortlisted for 'Website of the Year' in the National Association of Jeweller's annual awards for 2017.

The NAJ is the premier industry association in the UK, representing over 2,000 members that operate in every aspect of jewellery. Winterson has been a member of NAJ since 2010. We are honoured to be chosen amongst our peers to be shortlisted for this award.

A new awards category in 2017, Website of the Year recognises outstanding websites that are customer friendly and inspire the user to make an informed purchase.

As a primary point of contact with our customer, we need Winterson's website to behave as if it were a highly knowledgeable member of our customer service team.

During the past year we have introduced a number of key improvements to the website and we hope that these have enhanced your shopping experience with us. These include making improvements to the website's suggestions and search function, the ease of navigation across the site and its ability to work across different devices.

With our independent partner Feefo, we also ask every customer for their genuine feedback on our services. Pearls have always had a unique beauty and quality. We are really delighted to hear some of the testimonials and real-life connections that have been made with our jewellery.

The winner of the Website of the Year award will be announced at a glittering awards presentation on the 7th of December, attended by almost 400 jewellers.

A big thank you to the NAJ and the judges for shortlisting Winterson!