Fashion

Is it bad luck a for a bride to be wearing wedding pearls on her big day?

The pearl, with its pure white colour and shining lustre, is a beautiful symbol of perfection. Across many cultures, it is very popular for brides to choose to wear pearl jewellery. Historically, this tradition can be traced as far back as the beginnings of Hindu civilization when Krishna's daughter Pandia was adorned with a saltwater pearl that was drawn from the ocean.

But there are many superstitions associated with getting married. In some countries today it is said that the wearing of wedding pearls is an ill omen, perhaps representing the tears that a bride may later shed in married life. Is this particular myth true or just another old tale?

Before we knew more about how pearls are formed, pearls were associated in Western culture with tears. The Romans thought pearls to be the physical tears of angels or gods and, in The Odyssey, Homer describes tears as being 'reborn as pearls'.

Following the arrival of Christopher Columbus in the Americas, substantial oyster beds were found off the coast of Venezuela. The subsequent fashion for wearing natural pearls created a 'pearl rush' during the 16th and 17th centuries. European women of high rank and royalty fell in love with wearing extravagant pearl ornaments and matching sets of necklaces, bracelets, earrings and brooches. Queen Elizabeth I of England was said to own over 3,000 pearl embroidered dresses.

Keeping up with fashion, however, had a cost, and several small European royal houses bankrupted themselves over their new love for pearls. The cultural associations between pearls and tears inevitably continued, with Milton writing in 1645 in his Epitaph to the Marchioness of Winchester that the 'pearls of dew she wears prove to be presaging tears'.

By the middle of the 18th and 19th centuries, the wearing of pearls also began to be given another symbolic meaning, being officially reserved for wear during a specific period of time following a funeral. This period of royal half-mourning was largely fashion-led, with ladies at the court of Queen Victoria being only permitted to wear pearls, diamonds or plain ornaments.

There really is no bad luck in wearing pearls at your wedding. Today's superstitious association of pearls with bad luck simply comes from our rich ancient, medieval and modern cultural history. The beauty and simplicity of a white pearl is the perfect and traditional choice of jewellery for brides and bridesmaids.

For a jewellery designer, there are many colours, shapes and sizes of cultured pearls that can be used to create classic and contemporary pearl necklaces. A beautiful single strand of pearls can be further enhanced with a well-chosen necklace clasp. So how do you go about choosing the right clasp for wearing with a pearl necklace?

Clasps for necklaces may be made with gold or silver, perhaps including diamonds or other precious stones, and may have a classic, vintage or contemporary style. There are many different basic clasp designs that could be chosen to complete the final look of the necklace. These designs typically include the fish hook, the push clasp, the lobster, the spring ring, the magnetic necklace clasp, the screw clasp, the bar clasp...and many more.

STYLING

The first step for a designer in choosing a clasp is to consider how it will look together with the pearls. Fashion is a matter of personal choice, but it is important to consider the balance of size and colour between the pearls and the clasp. A discrete ball clasp might match a classic pearl necklace perfectly, whereas a luxurious and large diamond pave clasp will create a dramatic statement that will lift the overall look of the necklace. Certain necklace clasps are so pretty that they can also be worn to the side or in front of a pearl necklace.

SECURITY

If your strand of pearls is an opera length necklace or longer, it is important to find a secure clasp. A magnetic necklace clasp is very easy to fasten, but generally cannot support the weight of a larger or longer strand of pearls. The fish hook is a popular clasp as it is secure, but many customers of ours find it difficult to fasten. When choosing a clasp, be pragmatic and seek the right balance of style and ease of wear.

FINISH

The finishing of a clasp is an aspect not to ignore. A good clasp should be robust enough to withstand many hundred or even thousands of uses. It should have a smooth surface that allows it to sit around your neck comfortably. Do consider which precious materials have been used in the clasp to understand its value as this may have a significant influence on the overall price of the jewellery. For example, gold clasps for necklaces are of considerably more value than silver, gold plated silver or coated metal clasps. Consider also the size and value of any diamonds or precious stones that have been used in the jewellery design.

Finally, remember when buying a pearl necklace that it is as important to look at the quality of the pearls as the necklace clasp itself. It is usually always possible to restring a necklace and change your clasp in the future, but the pearls are unique.

The melancholy of autumn seeps in as clouds gather over Paris, temperatures start to fall and the trees turn a rich brown. Fortunately Paris is still the most romantic city in the world, with a fashion for wearing pearls. If you are lucky enough to be in the French capital this Autumn, and are wondering where to go beyond the usual tourist spots, here is a lazy weekend walk through the 6th and 7th arrondissements.

Early Sunday morning is the best time to visit the organic food market on Boulevard Raspail, which is bursting into life. The market is located on Boulevard Raspail between Rue de Cherche-Midi and Rue de Rennes. Be sure to sample one of the galette potato pancakes at the top of the market and immerse yourself in the local Rive Gauche life. Match the fun atmosphere with one of our pearl bracelets.

 

Next turn into the Rue du Cherche-Midi, Rue Saint-Placide and Rue du Bac to discover a string of exclusive fashion boutiques and of course Le Bon Marché. The building of this grand department store was designed by Gustave Eiffel in the middle of the 19th century. Open at the weekends on Saturday only, it is now the home to luxury brands, jewellery, French designers and other essentials for the local French fashionistas. Don't miss La Grand Épicerie with its delicious selection of artisanal groceries, pastries and gifts. It's the perfect place for wearing pearls, perhaps in layers of white Freshwater pearl rope necklaces in the style of Coco Chanel?

 

The world famous Musée Rodin is only a stone's throw away at the end of Rue de Varenne. As its name suggests, the museum is home to a collection of the most significant works by the French sculptor Auguste Rodin. Wander through the extensive grounds and stop to admire some of Rodin's most famous pieces including ‘The Kiss’ and 'The Thinker'.

 

To finish off your afternoon, amongst the landmarks of the Rive Gauche is the Café Les Deux Magots on the Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés. For centuries this café has been a cultural hotspot for writers and poets from the world of arts, fashion and literature. Wear something eye-catching like a lustrous pink Freshwater pearl necklace. On a crisp autumn afternoon, find a corner of the glassed-in terrace and sip on a reinvigorating coffee whilst enjoying Parisian life pass slowly by.

 

For dinner there is so much choice in this part of Paris, but Michelin-starred chef Guy Savoy's bistrot Les Bouquinistes is renowned for its sophisticated food and relaxed atmosphere. The restaurant is named after the book-sellers that have been lining the quais of the Seine for over 150 years and today attracts a local clientele of art lovers from the antique shops and galleries nearby. Its location at Quai des Grands Augustins also has a wonderful view at night overlooking the Cathédrale Notre Dame and the Pont-Neuf, a perfect Parisian end to the day.

A favourite of women for centuries, the pearl necklace holds a key place in any jewellery box. There are so many different occasions to wear pearl jewellery and many styles of pearl necklace lengths to choose from. Depending on the look that is desired, whether it is fine jewellery for a formal occasion, wedding jewellery, the office or casually at the weekend, here is a short guide on how to choose the best length for a pearl necklace.

THE COLLAR NECKLACE

The collar necklace is about 30 to 33cm in length and is typically made of smaller 5mm diameter pearls that are worn in three or four strands. This elegant necklace sits snugly around the neck. The pearl collar is typically worn as evening or bridal jewellery and can be matched with a multi-strand bracelet. A pearl collar necklace with lustrous white pearls will look amazing with an off-the-shoulder black dress.

THE CHOKER NECKLACE

A choker is about 35 to 42cm in length and is often made with slightly larger pearls that are more than 9mm in diameter. The pearl choker lies just over the collarbone, complementing the neckline and can be worn in the evening or in the office for an eye-catching contemporary appearance.

THE PRINCESS NECKLACE

A princess necklace, of about 43 to 49cm in length, is the classic and most popular length for a pearl necklace. Pearls of all sizes, shapes and colours work well with the princess necklace length, which lies about two centimetres below the collarbone. This everyday necklace is incredibly versatile, being perfect for an evening out or it can be worn simply with jeans. It can be made with Freshwater, Akoya, Tahitian or South Sea pearls.

THE OPERA NECKLACE

An opera necklace is about 65 to 90cm in length, with the extra length over the princess necklace giving a more casual and modern style. As a single strand it lies about halfway towards the waist or, if looped over the head, it can resemble a pearl choker.

THE SAUTOIR

The sautoir necklace, also known as a long rope necklace, is 95 cm in length or more. Worn as a single strand, the pearl sautoir can reach the waist and has a style reminiscent of the 1920s. The sautoir is also one of the most versatile pearl necklaces as it can be looped around the neck up to three times or can be worn knotted at the front. With the current fashion for layering jewellery, the pearl sautoir is one of our most popular items.

There are many ways to wear pearls. Read more about Buying a Pearl Necklace here.

Congratulations to Fyodor Golan and Sophie Breitmeyer for their recent success in Fashion Fringe 2011 at London Fashion Week!

Fashion Fringe is an annual competition to find young talented designers and help launch them onto the London fashion scene. Judged by a distinguished panel of industry professionals drawn from the creative, media and retail worlds of fashion, including Anne Pitcher of Selfridges, Claudia Schiffer and Roy Peach, of the London College of Fashion. The three finalists were asked to present their creative, and experimental, work at a tense Fashion Fringe catwalk event at Somerset House, London that took place as part of London Fashion Week this September.

The winner was Fyodor Golan, a design duo consisting of Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman who met in London after studying at the prestigious schools of Istituto Marangoni, London and The Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Antwerp. Previously working with Alexander McQueen, Raf Simmons, Richard Nichol and Issey Miyake, they launched their own label in 2010 fusing their imaginative approach with beautiful hand detailing, leather scarring and the manipulation of fabric.

For the Fashion Fringe catwalk, Fyodor Golan collaborated with Sophie Breitmeyer who designed four collars specifically for the show. These brass sculptures, detailed with petals and hummingbirds, mirror perfectly the complex patterns and weaves of the Fyodor Golan work.

The new collection of pearl jewellery designed by Sophie Breitmeyer will debut in the next few weeks. We can't wait to show you them.

The cultured pearl is closely associated with the name Mikimoto, a worldwide retailer and brand that is known for its Akoya pearls and luxury pearl jewellery.

Kokichi Mikimoto is often credited with the invention of the cultured pearl, but there are many other contributors to the beginnings of the story of the pearl industry. Going back to the 13th century, and further to around 100BC in the Canton area, it is thought that the Chinese were the first to produce small blister pearls formed in the shape of Buddha. The Swedish naturalist Carl von Linné also devised a method for culturing pearls in 1748, believed now to be similar to the Chinese method, examples of which can be still seen in London today.

But it was not until much later around 1900, that the English-born Australian William Saville-Kent is believed to have developed a method for culturing the first fully round pearls using a nucleus and a small piece of mantle tissue, which is essentially the technique still used today by pearl farmers. A few years later in 1907 two Japanese men Tatsuhei Mise and Tokishi Nishikawa introduced this technique to Japan, both filing their own patents before eventually collaborating.

Kokichi Mikimoto is still commonly regarded as the founding father of the cultured pearl industry. From humble beginnings, he proved to be an inspiring entrepreneur driving his business to become eventually an international success.

Mikimoto was born in 1858 in Toba, Mie Prefecture in Japan. The son of a noodle seller, in his teens he started trading in noodles and vegetables to help provide for his family. But at the age of 20 Mikimoto discovered pearls, which at the time were mainly sold at inflated prices in Japan's markets as Pearl Powder was believed to be a cure for eye disease, fever, measles, insomnia and other ailments.

Mikimoto decided to extend his noodle business to trade in marine products and pearls, leased a farm at Ago Bay, Japan and from 1888 started to carry out his first experiments on cultured blister pearls using the Chinese method. Mikimoto's initial harvests were however unsuccessful until in July 1893, when he was able to produce a small first harvest of semi-spherical mabe pearls in Japan. Over the years, he would continue to experiment to create a fully round cultured pearl, eventually adopting the technique of Mise and Nishikawa.

These cultured pearls, promoted as “Mikimoto Pearls”, took the UK and European jewellery market by storm with their shape, colour and lustre being offered to early buyers at a twenty-five percent discount to the prevailing price of natural pearls. In 1921, the London Star reported that Japanese pearls were so skilfully made that it was impossible to distinguish between them and natural pearls.

Mikimoto was a skilled marketer and Mikimoto jewellery was offered to royalty, celebrities such as Marilyn Monroe and promoted at international exhibitions using beautiful architectural models made with pearls. Meeting the Meiji Emperor at Ise Shrine, he declared "I would like to adorn the necks of all women around the world with pearls." By the beginning of World War II, Mikimoto had built one of the first international Japanese corporations with its pearls being sold across the world.

In 1954 Kokichi Mikimoto died at the age of 96. Although there are others that may also claim to be the inventor of the cultured pearl, it is undisputable that Kokichi Mikimoto was instrumental in helping to build the cultured pearl industry and the brand that today still bears his name.

Lake Geneva is calm, reflecting the rich colours of Autumn trees, and the mood is peaceful and beautiful. If you are visiting Geneva, here is a short walk through this international centre of luxury.

Begin the day at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues on the corner of Lake Geneva. This hotel has been a city landmark since 1834 with its affluent setting and breathtaking views. Breakfast is a rich and creamy croissant, dipped in a frothy cappuccino. To match the quiet and sophisticated atmosphere, wear a pearl necklace, perhaps white freshwater pearls with a diamond clasp.

If you are visiting on November 11 or 12th, do not miss a once in a lifetime opportunity to see one of the world's most famous pearls La Peregrina, which is on display at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues as part of the international tour celebrating Elizabeth Taylor's  life and collections.

The oldest part of the town is a short promenade away over the Pont des Bergues to the South Bank, also known as the Rive Gauche. The Rue du Marché and its adjacent streets are filled with the most famous and luxurious jewellers and watchmakers in the world. Stop to browse at the latest jewellery and watch trends from Cartier, Audemars Piguet, Bulgari, de Grisogono and Adler. Wear an Akoya pearl necklace as pearl jewellery stays in style beyond a season's trends.

For lunch, climb up to Brasserie LIPP, just off the main shopping street. This buzzing restaurant is renowned in the city for its seafood menu and Autumn is ideal for eating oysters. If the Autumn sun is kind, climb further into the heart of the old town. Coffee on the terrace of the Café du Bourg de Four is a relaxing way to absorb the historical charm of Geneva.

From the heights of the old town, drop down towards Place Neuve for a short walk to the Patek Phillippe Museum. The museum is located in a beautifully renovated building, dating from the early 20th century, and here you discover the history and craftsmanship of this prestigious watchmaker.

Finally, finish the day by booking a table at the Café des Bains, a contemporary restaurant and bar. The cosy and simple design is a reminder of the ‘bistrot de quartier’ that this neighbourhood favourite used to be. To enjoy with a delicious dinner, wear our modern Tahitian pearl earrings.

Autumn in Geneva is wonderful, but our next stop is Paris...

Which item of jewellery should be on your wishlist to accessorise with the new Autumn/Winter 2011 fashions?

The pearl choker is set to become one of this season's hottest jewellery accessories. Pearl chokers first became fashionable in the second half of 1800s with the influence of Alexandra, Princess of Wales who wore short necklaces and high necklines to disguise a small scar on her neck.

But this year Chanel, Valentino, Donna Karan, YSL, Bottega Veneta, Hermes, Emilio Pucci and Alexander McQueen… are just a few of the designers and brands that reference the choker with the season’s trend for a revival of Forties fashion.

A pearl choker necklace is a 14 to 16 inch (35-40 cm) necklace that nestles in the hollow of the neck or just above it. There are many variations of this short necklace with materials that include fabrics, gold and diamonds, feathers and pearls. A torsade can be a short necklace, made with twisted strands of white or multi-coloured cultured pearls.

The look of a choker can also be created by wrapping a long pearl rope necklace around the neck in layers.

Among the A/W 2011 season's collections, Donna Karan’s Pearls of Wisdom collection stands out. Its colours are pale, grey, silver and sand, the materials used are tweed, silk, fur and wool, the lines are fitted, luxurious and feminine.

We also love the look of Erickson Beamon’s chokers of matching faux pearls that complement and finish Donna Karan’s glamorous designs, sometimes using large pearls over 1cm in diameter. These are worn in single strands or in torsades and are accessorized with discreet matching earrings.

If you prefer the natural silver and grey colour of Tahitian pearls or the natural lavender colour of Freshwater pearls to the colour of faux pearls, then a real pearl choker will be the accessory to have for this winter.  The complexity of a real pearl's natural lustre, its warmth next to the skin and silky surface would add beautiful detail to the 1940s styling.

There are as many types of pearl earrings as there are candies in a sweet shop: round, oval or baroque pearls, white, pink, silver or black pearls, studs and drops, diamonds or precious stones.

 

Pearls have a unique characteristic of capturing and reflecting light, which means they will match with almost any colour or look. Choosing which pearl earrings to wear on which occasion might give you a sugar rush, so here is a simple guide to choosing and wearing pearl earrings.

PEARL EARRINGS FOR EVERY DAY

 

Amongst all the earrings in a women’s jewellery box, the simple yet elegant white Akoya pearl earring is the earring of choice for everyday wear. Stud earrings are also so comfortable that you can almost forget that you are wearing them.

 

For a relaxed style we would recommend choosing a pearl that is not too large for your ear. If you have more petite features, consider a stud with a 6-7mm diameter pearl or if you have more pronounced features consider an 8-9mm diameter pearl. If you prefer a bolder look, why not try larger button shaped pearl earrings? Button pearl studs can be easily worn in sizes over 9mm for a more contemporary style, without pulling on the ear.

 

One of our preferred pearl earrings is the pink pearl earring stud, which is a fun alternative to white. Pink Freshwater pearl earrings look absolutely amazing if you are wearing red, pink or purple clothes or accessories.

PEARL EARRINGS FOR AN EVENING OUT

 

If you are looking for the ultimate evening pearl earrings to wear with a little black dress, consider South Sea pearls. These pearls have an ice-white or golden silky shine and are typically found in larger sizes of over 10mm diameter. A simple South Sea pearl earring is quite beautiful, and even more so when matched with diamonds. Diamonds and pearls have long been a girl’s best friends as the sharp sparkle of diamonds works beautifully with the soft warm lustre of pearls.

 

If you are looking for a more contemporary evening style, consider wearing Tahitian pearl earrings with their dark and more exotic colours. Their baroque shapes and peacock colours will also make unique and envied pearl earrings.

PEARL EARRINGS FOR THE OFFICE

 

Powerful political and business women are frequently seen wearing pearls. The classic white pearl will bring a discreet, yet polished touch to any suit or business attire. We would recommend Akoya pearl earrings for the office as these pearls are more often perfectly round and are known for their strong lustre and quality.

 

Finally, if you are looking for that difficult corporate casual look, why not try a drop earring? These retain their tasteful discretion whilst still catching the eye with a gentle movement.

It’s August in London and it can be a wonderful time to visit the city. If you are planning some shopping, here is a short guide on the best places to visit and how to wear pearls in Mayfair and St James.

Begin the day in style with a grandiose breakfast at The Wolseley on Piccadilly. Originally commissioned in 1921 as a prestigious car showroom, The Wolseley has been a destination café restaurant since 2003 that exudes the charm of a European Grand Café. At breakfast the atmosphere is classic and exquisite so wear a long rope pearl necklace, perhaps in grey to match the modern restoration.

 

Cross Piccadilly, via the historic Burlington Arcade, towards Bond Street's luxury jewellers and fashion houses displaying their most sought after jewellery and latest fashions. For more contemporary choice and design make a short detour to the Dover Street Market, an inspirational and unique store for anyone obsessive about style.

 

Turn into Maddox Street towards Pollen Street for lunch at the Pollen Street Social. Jason Atherton's new restaurant is a both a modern meeting place and a fabulous place for a relaxed lunch. Wear a baroque Tahitian pearl bracelet with its shimmering black pearls.

 

Fill your afternoon with art by catching the last days of the annual Summer Exhibition at the Royal Academy. This is the largest open contemporary art exhibition in the world and this year Michael Craig-Martin is curating one of the largest galleries. We love the exhibition and it's the perfect place to wear a classic Akoya pearl set with a pearl necklace, bracelet and stud earrings.

 

Finally, finish the day off with some glamour in the heart of Knightsbridge at Bar Boulud at the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park. The bistro bar is beautiful and the red leather banquettes welcoming to collapse into. The dress code says Smart Casual, but only diamonds and pearls can match the atmosphere. Wear a golden South Sea pearl necklace with a stunning and sparkling diamond pave ball clasp.

 

Next stop.....a short guide to Geneva for the Autumn.