Tagged with 'Buying pearls'

One of the most important, and often overlooked, aspects of making beautiful pearl jewellery, such as a pearl necklace, is to match the pearls together.

The highest value necklaces will consist of gem quality pearls that have a uniformity throughout the whole necklace. The harmony of a contemporary pearl necklace made of dark grey Tahitian pearls, for example, will be much enhanced if the lustre, colour and size of the pearls are considered.

Matching is also important with other types of jewellery such as pearl earrings. Small variations of colour in two golden South Sea pearls could create balance or a distracting imbalance in the overall look of the jewellery.

In order to match pearls, sometimes tens of thousands of loose pearls will need to be sorted. If the pearls are rare, or if a necklace requires many pearls, this puzzle becomes increasingly difficult. For this reason, it is no surprise that excellent matching of pearl jewellery, especially for rare luxury pearls, requires patience, a large inventory and skill.

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA), which led the way in establishing a classification system for diamonds, defines Matching as one of seven key criteria for grading the quality of pearl jewellery. According to this leading gemological institution, pearls are graded according to size, shape, color, luster, surface quality, nacre quality and finally matching.

To classify how well pearls are matched, an expert will assess the consistency of each GIA grading factor across each and every pearl before grading the Matching of the jewellery as:

1. Excellent – Pearls are uniform in appearance and drilled on-centre


2. Very Good – Pearls have very minor variations in uniformity


3. Good – Pearls have minor variations in uniformity


4. Fair – Pearls have noticeable variations in uniformity


5. Poor – Pearls have very noticeable variations in uniformity


6. N/A – Jewellery has a single pearl

As well as having many years of experience with pearls, the team at Winterson is trained in pearl grading by the GIA. Matching is one of the value factors that describes the pearl jewellery at Winterson. If you would like to know more about the quality of our pearls, or how we grade them, please do contact us.

One surprising aspect of working with such a beautiful gem as a pearl is that there is not yet a widely accepted system for pearl grading. An ongoing challenge for retailers and customers alike is to understand the quality of this organic gem, which can vary significantly in its colour, origins and treatments.

There have been a number of initiatives to describe the quality of pearls and to earn the public's trust when buying pearls and pearl jewellery. The most widely accepted system today is the Gemological Institute of America's GIA Pearl Description System for grading natural and cultured pearls.

In the 1950s the GIA created the International Diamond Grading System with its famous 4Cs of diamond value - Carat, Color, Clarity and Cut. Today this diamond grading system is adopted universally and allows buyers to judge the quality of every diamond according to a standardized system.

The GIA Pearl Description System similarly requires a balanced and honest appraisal of each pearl according to 7 individual value factors. These are:

1. Size. A round pearl is measured across its diameter in millimetres. For non-spherical and other shapes of pearls, both the length and width of the pearl should be measured.

2. Shape. There are three main categories of pearl shapes: spherical (round, near round), symmetrical (oval, button, drop) or baroque (semi-baroque, baroque)

3. Colour. The main bodycolour of a pearl should be accurately described. This can be one of the difficult value factors to evaluate. A note should also be made if the pearl has an overtone colour or has a rainbow-like iridescent effect.

4. Lustre. Lustre, or luster, describes the light reflected from the surface of the pearl. It is described by its intensity and sharpness

5. Surface. Most pearls have surface characteristics or irregulatiries. Surface condition is judged by the size, number, location, visibility and types of blemishes.

6. Nacre Quality. Nacre quality is determined by its thickness and layering. The best possible grading is 'Acceptable'. If the nucleus is visible, the nacre is too thin. A chalky appearance may result from thin or poor layering of nacre.

7. Matching. Matching describes the uniformity of pearls in jewellery and depends on the consistency of the other six factors.

The pearl grading system of the Japanese cultured pearl industry historically has used the quality classification A, AA to AAA whilst the Tahitian cultured pearl industry typically uses its own A to D grading system.

It is also relatively easy to find pearls online at cheap prices that that are described as having a AAA+ or AAAAA grade of quality. With shops and online boutiques offering customers a freshwater pearl necklace that might range from a few pounds to hundreds of pounds, the difference in value can be both significant and confusing.

We believe in a transparent and consistent assessment of the quality of our jewellery, whilst upholding the highest standards of integrity. All the members of our team are trained in pearl grading at the GIA. We disclose the grading of our pearls, based on the GIA Pearl Description System, in the online information on all our jewellery at Winterson.

If you would like to know more about our pearls, please Contact Us.

The fascinating Venus of Hohle Fels is perhaps the oldest sculpture of a human figure found today. It is a six-centimeter tall figurine of a voluptuous woman, dating back to about 35,000 years ago. Carved from mammoth ivory with a delicately carved ring in place of a head, it may also be the oldest known pendant found in Europe.

Whilst experts continue to decipher the meaning of the Venus of Hohle Fels, there is no doubt that pendants have become one of the most loved forms of jewellery. Pendants are worn today by both women and men as symbols of identity, religion, love or an elegant fashion accessory.

 

Among the wide choice of classic and contemporary pendant designs, real pearl pendants are highly versatile and can be worn on almost any occasion, from everyday wear to a wedding day. To help you choose an perfect pearl pendant for yourself or someone you love, here is a short guide.

THE PEARL

 

The pearl is typically the central focus of a pearl pendant and for this reason the highest quality grading of pearls are often selected for luxury pearl pendants. These pearls should have a strong lustre, a thick nacre, a clean surface and beautiful natural colours.

PEARL SHAPE

 

The most popular shapes of pearls that are used in pendants are round, tear drop or button shaped pearls. All of these shapes will lie elegantly around the neck and have a pleasing symmetry.

SIZE

 

The size of the pearl in a pearl pendant will impact the price of the pendant, particularly as larger Tahitian and South Sea pearls become more expensive. In a classic single pearl pendant design, the more popular pearl sizes are between 8-11mm in diameter.

GEMSTONES

 

Pearls are a beautiful match with diamonds, that might be set as a solitaire just above the pearl. For a more contemporary twist, pearls can also be matched with colourful gemstones such as sparkling blue sapphires or eye catching garnets.

THE CHAIN

 

Pearl pendants can also be hung from a necklace, called an enhancer, but today are more often worn from a simple silver or gold chain. The weight and finish of the chain should hold the pendant safely and be beautiful without distracting from the pearl and its setting. The standard length of a pearl pendant chain is typically 42 cm or 45 cm, which would be similar to a long choker or princess length necklace. For a luxury pearl pendant, 18 carat gold or platinum is a preferable choice.

 

At Winterson, our most popular pearl pendants are the single pearl pendant, perhaps with a lustrous white freshwater pearl and a sparkling solitaire diamond. More exotic Tahitian pearl pendants, with their shimmering grey, silver and black colours, or with a designer twist, Sophie Breitmeyer's colourful designer pendants with Akoya pearls are strong favourites too.

Each year on February 14th, Valentine’s Day is celebrated by lovers offering each other letters, cards, flowers and a Valentine Gift as a symbol of their affection. Where did this longstanding tradition of celebrating Valentine's Day come from and how has it changed over the years?

Valentine’s Day has its origins rooted in Roman and Christian history, but we do not really know its true meaning or history. Perhaps the most enchanting story is that of Saint Valentine, who whilst held in confinement, fell in love with a young lady that legend says was his jailor’s daughter. Before he died, it is said that Saint Valentine wrote her a farewell note of love that he signed ‘From Your Valentine”.

During the Middle Ages, lovers mostly spoke or sung their feelings. The oldest written Valentine’s love letter today is held at the British Library and dates to 1415. It was ‘A Farewell to Love’ written by Charles, Duke of Orleans, to his wife as he was held captive in the Tower of London. His wife Bonne of Armagnac tragically passed away before his release from his twenty-four years of imprisonment.

Written greetings became popular in the 18th century and spread further afield in the 19th century as postage services became cheaper. Initially these greetings were handwritten notes and letters that promised love and affection. With improved printing techniques, printed cards and postcards also became available and later even telegrams were exchanged. The British Postal Museum has an online exhibition of items from their collection that relate to Valentine’s Day. A beautiful folded letter called a Rebus, dating from 1790, slowly reveals its romantic verses and small illustrations as the letter is unfolded.

Throughout its history, Valentine’s Day has continued to grow in popularity, with yet another turn in modern times. With the development of the internet, the traditional love letter has been giving way to email and online e-cards. The most romantic amongst us may lament this drift away from the personal meaning of a handwritten note. But who wouldn't also appreciate a carefully chosen Valentine Gift?

The humble earring back is an essential element of any earring design, and yet can so often be overlooked when choosing pearl earrings. Earring backs are the small gold or silver part of an earring that pushes onto the earring post to hold the earring safely in place against the earlobe.

The ideal earring back is designed to be robust enough to last hundreds of applications, is very comfortable to wear and balanced without dragging the sensitive part of the ear forward. It can also accomplish much more, contributing to the elegance of an earring when worn.

 

What are the main types of earring backs and what should you consider when buying a pair of earrings? There are really four main types:

PUSH-ON SCROLLS AND BUTTERFLIES

 

These are the traditional metal earring backs that are shaped like a butterfly, or a number eight, and are simply pushed onto the back of an pearl stud earring. Push-on scroll and butterfly backs are perhaps the most widely worn earring backs, but also carry the highest risk of loss of an earring if they slip off. Transparent plastic or silicon backs may allow a larger earring back to remain discreet and can be very comfortable.

SCREW-ON BACKS

 

These are gold or silver backs that are screwed securely onto the post of the earring. Although less convenient to take on and off, screw-on backs are much safer than scroll and butterfly backs and are typically used when paired with larger earrings such as South Sea pearl earrings.

ALPA EARRING BACKS

 

For precious and more valuable gold pearl earrings, an Alpa earring back combines the convenience of the push-on butterfly with the safety of the screw-on back. Each Alpa back, pictured above, has two small clasps that have to be released once the back has been pushed onto and locked into place on the earring post. The mechanism is easy to use and is by far our choice for designer pearl earrings.

 

There are many aspects to consider when choosing a pearl earring back, including safety, ease of use, durability, quality of the finish, cost and, of course, style.

 

Most jewellers will match their earrings with the most appropriate earring back, however, some earring backs can be quite versatile and easily interchangeable once purchased. Ask your jeweller to check the thickness of the post to be certain that the new back will securely hold the earring in place. With the correct back, it will become so easy to take the earring on and off that wearing a favourite piece of jewellery can become second nature.

Here is a simple question. How many freshwater pearls are there in this image ?

Pearls have fascinated us for hundreds of years with their colours, shapes and diversity. Despite our long love story with pearls, our general knowledge of these pretty and precious gems is still relatively poor. A simple test of our understanding is whether we can explain the difference between a freshwater and a saltwater pearl…

Saltwater pearls include Akoya pearls historically from Japan, Tahitian pearls from French Polynesia and South Sea pearls from Australia and Indonesia, whilst Freshwater pearls today originate mainly from China. The difference between saltwater and freshwater pearls is not their geographic origin, however, but in the mollusks in which they originate.

Saltwater pearls are found in oysters that live in saltwater oceans and seas, whilst freshwater pearls are found in mussels that live in freshwater rivers, lakes and ponds.

Both saltwater and freshwater pearls are formed with a similar process. All pearls are formed as the mollusk secretes layers of a protective iridescent substance called nacre around an irritant. In natural pearls an irritant such as a parasite enters the mollusk, whereas with cultured pearls, this irritant is introduced intentionally by man. Experts define both saltwater and freshwater pearls as ‘pearls’ for they have concentric layers of nacre.

Both freshwater and saltwater pearls make beautiful jewellery. Their unique characteristics of each variety make it not too difficult to distinguish a freshwater pearl from a saltwater pearl by looking at its natural colour, its shape, its size and whether the pearl has a bead nucleus inside. Metallic pastel colours, for example, are a clear sign that a pearl is of freshwater origin. A knowledgeable eye might look at the drill hole of the pearl to determine if there is a shell bead nucleus inside.

Continual advances in pearl farming techniques, for example with the introduction of round beaded nuclei to help make larger round freshwater pearls, are making some of these differences harder to identify. With some significant differences in price between freshwater and saltwater pearls, it is always advisable to purchase pearls from a reputable jeweller.

PS The answer above is that there are 5 cultured freshwater pearls in the image above, the rest are all cultured saltwater pearls.

For a jewellery designer, there are many colours, shapes and sizes of cultured pearls that can be used to create classic and contemporary pearl necklaces. A beautiful single strand of pearls can be further enhanced with a well-chosen necklace clasp. So how do you go about choosing the right clasp for wearing with a pearl necklace?

Clasps for necklaces may be made with gold or silver, perhaps including diamonds or other precious stones, and may have a classic, vintage or contemporary style. There are many different basic clasp designs that could be chosen to complete the final look of the necklace. These designs typically include the fish hook, the push clasp, the lobster, the spring ring, the magnetic necklace clasp, the screw clasp, the bar clasp...and many more.

STYLING

The first step for a designer in choosing a clasp is to consider how it will look together with the pearls. Fashion is a matter of personal choice, but it is important to consider the balance of size and colour between the pearls and the clasp. A discrete ball clasp might match a classic pearl necklace perfectly, whereas a luxurious and large diamond pave clasp will create a dramatic statement that will lift the overall look of the necklace. Certain necklace clasps are so pretty that they can also be worn to the side or in front of a pearl necklace.

SECURITY

If your strand of pearls is an opera length necklace or longer, it is important to find a secure clasp. A magnetic necklace clasp is very easy to fasten, but generally cannot support the weight of a larger or longer strand of pearls. The fish hook is a popular clasp as it is secure, but many customers of ours find it difficult to fasten. When choosing a clasp, be pragmatic and seek the right balance of style and ease of wear.

FINISH

The finishing of a clasp is an aspect not to ignore. A good clasp should be robust enough to withstand many hundred or even thousands of uses. It should have a smooth surface that allows it to sit around your neck comfortably. Do consider which precious materials have been used in the clasp to understand its value as this may have a significant influence on the overall price of the jewellery. For example, gold clasps for necklaces are of considerably more value than silver, gold plated silver or coated metal clasps. Consider also the size and value of any diamonds or precious stones that have been used in the jewellery design.

Finally, remember when buying a pearl necklace that it is as important to look at the quality of the pearls as the necklace clasp itself. It is usually always possible to restring a necklace and change your clasp in the future, but the pearls are unique.

A favourite of women for centuries, the pearl necklace holds a key place in any jewellery box. There are so many different occasions to wear pearl jewellery and many styles of pearl necklace lengths to choose from. Depending on the look that is desired, whether it is fine jewellery for a formal occasion, wedding jewellery, the office or casually at the weekend, here is a short guide on how to choose the best length for a pearl necklace.

THE COLLAR NECKLACE

The collar necklace is about 30 to 33cm in length and is typically made of smaller 5mm diameter pearls that are worn in three or four strands. This elegant necklace sits snugly around the neck. The pearl collar is typically worn as evening or bridal jewellery and can be matched with a multi-strand bracelet. A pearl collar necklace with lustrous white pearls will look amazing with an off-the-shoulder black dress.

THE CHOKER NECKLACE

A choker is about 35 to 42cm in length and is often made with slightly larger pearls that are more than 9mm in diameter. The pearl choker lies just over the collarbone, complementing the neckline and can be worn in the evening or in the office for an eye-catching contemporary appearance.

THE PRINCESS NECKLACE

A princess necklace, of about 43 to 49cm in length, is the classic and most popular length for a pearl necklace. Pearls of all sizes, shapes and colours work well with the princess necklace length, which lies about two centimetres below the collarbone. This everyday necklace is incredibly versatile, being perfect for an evening out or it can be worn simply with jeans. It can be made with Freshwater, Akoya, Tahitian or South Sea pearls.

THE OPERA NECKLACE

An opera necklace is about 65 to 90cm in length, with the extra length over the princess necklace giving a more casual and modern style. As a single strand it lies about halfway towards the waist or, if looped over the head, it can resemble a pearl choker.

THE SAUTOIR

The sautoir necklace, also known as a long rope necklace, is 95 cm in length or more. Worn as a single strand, the pearl sautoir can reach the waist and has a style reminiscent of the 1920s. The sautoir is also one of the most versatile pearl necklaces as it can be looped around the neck up to three times or can be worn knotted at the front. With the current fashion for layering jewellery, the pearl sautoir is one of our most popular items.

There are many ways to wear pearls. Read more about Buying a Pearl Necklace here.

There are as many types of pearl earrings as there are candies in a sweet shop: round, oval or baroque pearls, white, pink, silver or black pearls, studs and drops, diamonds or precious stones.

 

Pearls have a unique characteristic of capturing and reflecting light, which means they will match with almost any colour or look. Choosing which pearl earrings to wear on which occasion might give you a sugar rush, so here is a simple guide to choosing and wearing pearl earrings.

PEARL EARRINGS FOR EVERY DAY

 

Amongst all the earrings in a women’s jewellery box, the simple yet elegant white Akoya pearl earring is the earring of choice for everyday wear. Stud earrings are also so comfortable that you can almost forget that you are wearing them.

 

For a relaxed style we would recommend choosing a pearl that is not too large for your ear. If you have more petite features, consider a stud with a 6-7mm diameter pearl or if you have more pronounced features consider an 8-9mm diameter pearl. If you prefer a bolder look, why not try larger button shaped pearl earrings? Button pearl studs can be easily worn in sizes over 9mm for a more contemporary style, without pulling on the ear.

 

One of our preferred pearl earrings is the pink pearl earring stud, which is a fun alternative to white. Pink Freshwater pearl earrings look absolutely amazing if you are wearing red, pink or purple clothes or accessories.

PEARL EARRINGS FOR AN EVENING OUT

 

If you are looking for the ultimate evening pearl earrings to wear with a little black dress, consider South Sea pearls. These pearls have an ice-white or golden silky shine and are typically found in larger sizes of over 10mm diameter. A simple South Sea pearl earring is quite beautiful, and even more so when matched with diamonds. Diamonds and pearls have long been a girl’s best friends as the sharp sparkle of diamonds works beautifully with the soft warm lustre of pearls.

 

If you are looking for a more contemporary evening style, consider wearing Tahitian pearl earrings with their dark and more exotic colours. Their baroque shapes and peacock colours will also make unique and envied pearl earrings.

PEARL EARRINGS FOR THE OFFICE

 

Powerful political and business women are frequently seen wearing pearls. The classic white pearl will bring a discreet, yet polished touch to any suit or business attire. We would recommend Akoya pearl earrings for the office as these pearls are more often perfectly round and are known for their strong lustre and quality.

 

Finally, if you are looking for that difficult corporate casual look, why not try a drop earring? These retain their tasteful discretion whilst still catching the eye with a gentle movement.

Jewellers have worked with diamonds and pearls for hundreds of years and even today this is an adored combination of gems.

 

There is an astonishing choice of gemstones available to designers, including precious stones such as sapphires, emeralds and rubies, and semi-precious stones such as amethyst, topaz and peridot, so why is it that diamonds and pearls continue to be two of a girl’s best friends?

 

Diamonds have a remarkable appearance. They appear pure, translucid, nearly colourless and reflect incredible sparkles of light. Pearls are made with an equally exquisite material called nacre. They appear silky to the touch and smooth with a dazzling iridescence and overtones of colour. The unique synergy of diamonds and pearls creates a captivating elegance that is quite unrivalled.

 

Depending on the culture and the period in time, there are many traditional symbols associated with the matching of diamonds with pearls. Diamonds represent strength, purity, love and eternity, whilst pearls are symbols of good luck, chastity, innocence and friendship. With this symbolic history, it is easy to understand why diamonds and pearls are a perfect choice for bridal jewellery or wedding .

 

A white Freshwater pearl necklace  can also be finished with a clasp set with diamond pave, and is versatile enough to be worn either for evening or business occasions. For a more relaxed every day look, pearl pendants and earrings can be mounted with sparkling diamonds for a twist of glamour.

 

If you love this combination of gems, view a selection from our Diamonds and Pearls collection.