Tagged with 'Buying pearls'

The classic single strand necklace of pearls is still today the most popular piece of pearl jewellery. The process of stringing pearls is in itself quite an art as a skilful pearl stringer has to work with precision, delicacy and care.

The first step is to arrange the pearls according to their size, colour, surface quality and lustre so that they may visually produce the best possible effect for the wearer.

With luxury jewellery, pearls are threaded onto silk of the highest quality that is undyed and free of chemicals. Silk provides the strength, flexibility, and smoothness that is required, whilst knots between each pearl prevent them from rubbing against each other and to keep the pearls from falling if the jewellery breaks. For heavier jewellery such as a rope or opera necklaces, the knots between each pearl may be doubled, or a wire may be used with the silk, to provide additional strength.

Necklaces that have recently been strung are usually taut, and may show kinks, but these will relax as the jewellery is worn.

Restringing pearl necklaces and pearl bracelets is very important for taking care of your pearls. Check your pearls annually to see if the thread has become discoloured or stretched. With regular restringing, your jewellery should last a lifetime.

If you are thinking of celebrating college, high school and university success and achievement with a graduation gift, then pearls are a perfect choice.

At Winterson, we have an extensive range of beautiful pieces of pearl jewellery that make ideal graduation gifts. Classic pearl necklaces or pearl earrings are very popular, but if you are looking for something unique then our range of pendants would also be a special gift.

A truly classic choice, Japanese Akoya pearls have the timeless elegance of fine jewellery. This type of saltwater pearl was the first to be cultured in Japan in the early 1900s and today are continued to be loved for their quality.

Akoya pearls are typically white, with an overtone of pink, and are admired for their excellent lustre. Lustre describes the way that light is reflected by the physical structure of the pearl's surface. A strong lustre is one of the key qualities to look for when buying pearls and will help create a flattering glow for its wearer.

A pearl jewellery set of Japanese Akoya pearl necklace and stud earrings, perhaps completed with a bracelet, is a classic piece in any jewellery box. These pearls would be a beautiful graduation gift to be enjoyed on Graduation Day and as a reminder many years later after the ceremony.

To make the pleasure of receiving pearl jewellery as a gift more special, we offer all of our jewellery in a soft travel pouch presented in a luxurious jewellery box. Each item is gift-wrapped in our signature zig zag pattern and sealed with a Winterson flower.

Please Contact Us and we would be delighted to answer any questions that you may have or if you would simply like some advice about our pearls.

Whilst it makes sense to reduce unnecessary red tape, the hallmarking standard does provide important controls over the supply of precious metals such as silver, gold and more recently palladium in the UK.

As a result valuable items of jewellery are independently tested and marked to a standard of purity such as 18 carat gold.

Without the work of the Assay Offices in the UK, jewellery lovers and businesses alike may find that they are buying a different quality of precious metal to that which they are expecting.

We'd like hallmarking to stay. If you agree, please add your comments to the debate here.

UPDATE

On 28th July 2011, following a successful industry and consumer campaign to keep this historic practice, the Government announced that the hallmarking system would survive in its present form.

Here is the answer to the question 'What does the term “Momme” mean when valuing pearls?'

Pearl producers and wholesalers often deal in lots of hundreds or even thousands of pearls. For these larger lots, pearls are sold by weight and the measure used is typically the momme, a traditional Japanese unit of weight measurement that is equal to 3.75 grams.

Most Japanese akoya cultured pearls are sold by farmer’s cooperatives at Hama-age auctions. The pearls are usually graded into lots according to their quality and size and each lot is assigned a price per momme. For even larger lots of pearls, auctioneers may use the kan weight of measurement, which is equal to 1,000 momme.

Today the term momme is still widely used by farmers and wholesalers of Akoya, Tahitian and South Sea pearls, and also in the silk industry since the 19th century.

It is not, however, as frequently used in buying Chinese Freshwater pearls, where large pearl lots are weighed in grams, or by retailers which focus on the number of pearls used to make beautiful pearl jewellery, their size and quality.

6. What size of pearls to choose?

It is more difficult and more expensive to produce a larger cultured pearl, particularly above 11mm in diameter. Some oysters such as the Akoya oyster are physically unable to produce a pearl that are larger than a certain size.

Each additional millimetre of diameter can significantly increase the rarity and value of a pearl, so it is important to think about the right size of pearl for you and the overall look of the jewellery. A pearl size between 7mm to 9mm is highly popular for a classic necklace, whereas a larger pearl size above 11mm can be much more of a statement luxury item.

If you are considering jewellery and prices from different retailers, make sure you compare the size of the pearls.

7. What shape are the pearls?

Pearls come in an astonishing diversity of shapes that can be classified as spherical, symmetrical or baroque. Perfectly round pearls form a small proportion of annual cultured pearl harvests and are more expensive.

Freshwater pearls, in particular, are unlikely to be round due to the method of culturing these pearls. Near round and symmetrical button freshwater pearls typically are more common and not as expensive. Baroque pearls are found in irregular shapes that can make them individual and exquisite, often showing a rainbow of colours on their surface.

Choose a shape of pearl that fits the jewellery design and your budget. If it is the look of a classic round pearl that you wish for, check first that they are indeed round.

8. Is the surface of the pearls marked?

A beautiful pearl, like a diamond, is a rare and expensive gem. Minor markings or spots on a pearl are quite normal and contribute to their character. Most buyers of pearls understand that a pearl may have small variations in surface, emphasising their individuality. More significant scratches, cracks and holes on the surface of pearls will impact their value and lifetime, even causing a pearl's nacre to break or peel.

Ask an experienced jeweller if you are considering buying pearls that are heavily blemished.

9. Don't forget the necklace length and the clasp

The price of your pearl jewellery will depend on the number of pearls used and the quality content of any metal that is designed into the jewellery such as silver, gold vermeil or 9, 14 and 18 carat gold. For centuries, pearls have also been matched in jewellery with precious and semi precious stones such as diamonds, agate, onyx and amethyst.

Always compare the length of a strand of pearls, understand the hallmarking of a metal and the precious or semi-precious stones used.

10. Does your retailer understand pearls ?

The diversity of pearls makes it a puzzling task to match pearls together for jewellery. This may often require access to a large stock of pearls. The better the pearls are matched based on size, shape, colour, lustre and surface quality, the more likely the jewellery will be balanced and beautiful.

Look for a specialist retailer with a reputable knowledge of pearls. Trade associations such as the NAJ can be helpful sources of information in finding a good local or online jeweller.

Here are the first 5 of ten simple questions to ask to help find the right piece of pearl jewellery for you.  The second 5 questions are here.

1. Are the pearls natural, cultured or imitation?

Natural pearls are real pearls formed in wild molluscs living in their natural habitat without any human intervention. Their rarity has made natural pearls highly valued and a collector’s gemstone. Cultured pearls are also real pearls, but are grown after a pearl farmer has stimulated the development of the pearl in the mollusc. Cultured pearls are iridescent gems that can be worn and enjoyed every day. Fake pearls are made with a coated glass bead and are fun accessories, but do not have the same organic or luxurious feel of natural and cultured pearls.

Most pearls sold in shops or online will be cultured or imitation pearls. Pearls that are described as being natural will generally not be.

2. Are the pearls freshwater or saltwater cultured pearls?

The majority of cultured pearls available in the fashion market today are Freshwater pearls and are produced in volume in freshwater mussels, mostly in China. Saltwater cultured pearls are produced in a different variety of oysters, chosen for their quality, size, shape and colour. Akoya, Tahitian and South Sea pearls are saltwater pearls. Fewer saltwater pearls are produced each year and their cost is more expensive than that of freshwater pearls.

If the origin of the pearls is not specified, or if the price is comparatively low, then assume the pearls are freshwater or imitation pearls.

3. What is the quality grading of the pearls?

Unlike the diamond industry that uses the GIA’s International Diamond Grading System (the 4Cs), there is no single accepted industry grading system for pearls. Beware of product descriptions that grade a pearl as AAA+ or AAAA as these have no real accepted meaning. Many factors will influence the value of a pearl and some of these are listed below.

Ask your retailer how a pearl is graded and assess their level of knowledge and expertise before buying pearls.

4. Are the pearls dyed?

The colour of a pearl will reflect the type of mollusc that the pearl was cultured in, but may also be as a result of certain dyes, treatments and enhancements. A Freshwater Pearl might be dyed black or peacock so as to mimic the natural colour of a black Tahitian Pearl. A colour treatment may be used to disguise the poor quality of a pearl’s lustre or surface. Pearl jewellery, in which the colour of the pearls is uniformly matched, will possibly be dyed.

Ask your retailer if the pearls have been treated for colour as many dyes will fade or change colour over time.

5. How sharp are the reflections in the pearl?

The intensity of a pearl’s reflections is known as lustre and is absolutely unique to pearls, different to any other gemstone. When grading pearls, highly valued pearls will have a mirror-like, sharp and shiny lustre. Poor quality pearls without lustre will be dull, opaque and lifeless.

Lustre is one of the most important reasons for the differences in price between one pearl and another. Look for pearls within your budget that have the best lustre, as these will complement your skin and the face more beautifully.

When the sun is shining, the sea turns a petrol green colour and with that magnificent skyline, there can be few better ways to get to work in the morning or places for buying pearls.

For the last four days, Hong Kong has been host to the largest Spring Jewellery Show in Asia, with more than 30,000 buyers and suppliers attending from around the world – a record attendance despite recent times.

In pearl terms, Hong Kong has grown to be one of the most important pearl trading centres in the world and this is one of the key dates in the annual calendar for buying pearls. It is hard to comprehend the size of the pearl industry until confronted by more than 10,000 square metres of pearls for sale at this Jewellery Show.

The new season’s freshwater pearls from China are available to the market for the first time and prestigious pearl famers such as Robert Wan from Tahiti and Paspaley from Australia offer their pearls at auction to a select specialist group of buyers.

Pearl prices are beginning to rise again. Demand for these incredible gems is increasing, particularly from customers in India and China, whilst production over the last two years has been reduced as pearl farmers have weathered the global crisis.

This is particularly true of larger Freshwater, Akoya, Tahitian and South Sea pearls and higher grade quality pearls are in much shorter supply now. With minimum lead times of 18 months to over 3 years for farmers to increase their pearl harvest, it is likely that this trend will continue for the foreseeable future, especially for the premium grade pearls.

It is a good time to buy pearls and we will have many beautiful pieces of pearl jewellery to show you at Winterson over the coming months.

PEARL COLOUR, SHAPE AND SIZE

The choice of pearl colours available today, with white, gold, silver, grey, black, pink, peacock and natural multi-coloured pearls, is simply dazzling. Different pearl colours will match and reflect skin tone or colourful clothes and accessories.

Pearls can be cultured in a variety of shapes, including the classic round pearl, the informality of an oval shape or the individual complexity of a baroque pearl.

Pearl size is also an important factor. Smaller pearls with diameters up to 9 mm typically make more discreet and classical jewellery, whilst larger pearls above 9 mm will be more eye-catching and luxurious. As pearls increase in size to more than 10mm diameter, their rarity and price also increases.

THE NECKLACE LENGTH

One way to choose the length of a pearl necklace is to consider the occasion when it will be worn. In general the shorter the necklace the more formal it may appear.

A choker pearl necklace that nestles at the base of the neck is really best suited for evening wear, a long sautoir may be worn fashionably loose, knotted or long around the neck and the traditional princess length pearl necklace will sit elegantly below the collarbone for a classic and versatile look.

Read more about the different lengths in our article on pearl necklace lengths.

THE CLASP

The clasp is not typically the centrepiece of a pearl necklace, however it is an important aspect to consider when buying a pearl necklace. A difficult clasp can be awkward to take on and off.

A good clasp will be secure, robust and with a smooth finish. The lobster clasp, fish hook and spring ring clasps are most commonly used with strings of pearls. There are many more clasps available, including designer clasps with diamonds. Consider the choice of materials used such as gold, coated gold vermeil, silver and gemstones.

Read more about our experience with different necklace clasps.

IF YOU HAVE TO COMPROMISE

The price of a pearl necklace will vary from a few pounds to tens of thousands of pounds. Unless your budget is unlimited, you may need to compromise on certain qualities of the necklace.

Consider an off-round pearl shape or reduce the pearl size as a way to reduce the price of the necklace. In our experience the allure of a pearl necklace is the iridescent shine of its pearls, so we would recommend selecting pearls that have the best lustre that will match your budget.

PEARL NECKLACES AT WINTERSON

The Winterson range of pearl necklaces and long rope necklaces offers a beautiful selection of luxury jewellery that is suitable for all occasions. Our standards of quality are set high and we hand select our pearls, in particular looking for good lustre.

Discover our necklace collections here, with luxurious South Sea pearl necklaces, exotic Tahitian pearl necklaces, iconic Akoya pearl necklaces and versatile Freshwater pearl pearl necklaces.

Freshwater pearls are cultured around the world, including in countries such as Japan and the USA. Over the last twenty years the Chinese have perfected the production of culturing pearls in freshwater mussels, which are farmed in lakes and streams.

Most freshwater pearls available today are produced in China and make really lovely pieces of jewellery. The best quality freshwater pearls sit comfortably alongside the finest Akoya, Tahitian and South Seas pearls and can also offer great value.

The triangular-shaped shell mussel Hyriopsis cumingii is used to produce up to 50 freshwater pearls in each mussel, depending on the size and quality desired. In contrast to saltwater pearl culturing, freshwater pearls generally need no nucleus, with the pearl only being produced by the mussel once a piece of nacre-producing tissue is inserted into the mussel to create the pearl sac.

The size of these cultured freshwater pearls can vary widely from tiny poppy seed pearls to more regular pearls between 6 and 12mm. Very recently developed grafting techniques have also introduced a nucleus to the mussel to culture even larger freshwater pearls.

The placed position of the nacre-producing tissue and the shape of a nucleus in the mussel can produce different shapes of pearls such as round, semi-round, oval, button, baroque, coin and drop shapes.

As well as being capable of producing consistently high quality pearls, freshwater mussels cleverly produce a dazzling rainbow of colours including shades of white, apricot, lavender and pink Freshwater pearls.

With this quality and diversity of freshwater pearls, we can offer a range of fashionable and classic freshwater pearl necklaces, freshwater pearl earrings and jewellery that we hope you will love.

Winterson is a luxury British jewellery brand, specialising in classic and contemporary pearl jewellery.

With a successful family heritage and expertise of working with pearls for over 50 years, we select the highest quality pearls and jewellery designs so that you can be very confident of the items that we offer. We do hope that you will always enjoy and treasure them.

Over the coming weeks and months with this Journal, we will take you on an informative and enjoyable introduction to Winterson and one of nature’s most precious possessions - the pearl.

Our love of pearls goes back for centuries. Until as recently as 200 years ago, long before the diamond and ruby became fashionable, the pearl was the world’s favourite precious gem. One of the earliest pearl necklaces found in Western Iran has been dated to 2,300 BC. Since early times, the pearl’s brilliant shine and glow has captivated cultures across the world, from China to Egypt, and from the Persian Gulf to Peru, inspiring traditions, myths and ancient legends about this wonderful gem.

The Roman emperors attempted to increase the pearl’s exclusivity and allure by banning the wearing of pearls by women under the age of 55. Fortunately, that is no longer the case today and iconic women throughout history such as Elizabeth I, Queen Victoria, Coco Chanel, Jacqueline Kennedy, Marilyn Monroe, Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn, Elizabeth Taylor and Princess Diana have been famous and notable wearers of pearl jewellery.

More recently, the diversity of pearl colours and shapes available today allows designers to create truly stunning and fashionable jewellery. Today’s celebrities and leaders of fashion such as Anna Wintour, Michelle Obama, Nicole Kidman, Cheryl Cole, Dame Helen Mirren, Keira Knightley and Angelina Jolie have shown us how to look elegant with pearls.

Our online Winterson store will open in early November 2010. We look forward to welcoming you and invite you to view our Collections.